Bleeding the Brakes on a 2018 Can-Am Spyder F3-S SM6

Shop parts for a 2018 Can-Am Spyder F3-S SM6 Motorcycle.

The 2018 Can-Am Spyder F3-S SM6 uses hydraulic disc brakes at the front and rear, and it is equipped with ABS and a linked foot-pedal braking system. That configuration matters before you open a bleeder: you are refreshing fluid and removing air through the caliper bleeders, but the ABS unit and linked circuit mean this is not the same as bleeding a simple two-wheel motorcycle with independent front and rear systems. If air has entered the ABS module, if the reservoir has run dry, or if the system has been opened at the ABS unit or its lines, the machine may need a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool. In that case, stop and have a shop perform the bleed. For a normal fluid refresh with a firm pedal and no known air in the ABS unit, this is a manageable DIY service.

Why and When the F3-S Needs a Brake Bleed

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture from the air over time. That moisture lowers the fluid’s boiling point and can contribute to brake fade under hard or repeated use, even if the pedal still feels acceptable during easy riding. On the F3-S, a soft or spongy pedal, a pedal that travels farther than it used to, or fluid that looks dark or cloudy in the reservoir are all signs that fresh fluid and a proper bleed are due. Many riders also refresh brake fluid on a regular schedule as preventive maintenance rather than waiting for a symptom.

Bleeding is also required after any work that opened the hydraulic system. That includes new brake lines, caliper service, master cylinder work, or any situation where the reservoir was allowed to run low enough to draw air into the circuit. Because this machine has ABS and linked braking, do not assume that a pedal that feels fine after a repair means the entire system is free of air. If the ABS unit was disturbed, the safe choice is a shop bleed.

Tools and Supplies to Have Ready

  • Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container
  • A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly
  • A length of clear tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder valve
  • A clean catch bottle for old fluid
  • Rags or shop towels, plus a syringe or turkey baster for removing old fluid from the reservoir
  • A screwdriver or driver that fits the reservoir cap screws
  • Optional: a one-way check-valve bleeder or vacuum bleeder to make one-person bleeding easier

Use only fluid from a sealed container, and do not reuse fluid that has been sitting open or that was pulled through the system. Brake fluid damages paint and plastic on contact, so keep rags close and plan to wipe up any spill immediately.

Preparation Before Opening the Hydraulic System

Park the F3-S on a level surface and support it securely so it cannot roll or shift while you work. Position the machine so the master cylinder reservoir is level before you remove the cap. Because this is a linked foot-pedal system, you will be working the brake pedal rather than a front brake lever. Cover painted bodywork, plastics, and the instrument area with rags before opening the reservoir. If a drop of brake fluid lands on a painted or plastic surface, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water.

Access the reservoir and clean around the cap before removing it so dirt does not fall into the fluid. Have your catch bottle, tubing, and wrench laid out before you start. The goal is to work in short, controlled steps and never let the reservoir run low enough to pull air into the system.

Step-by-Step Bleeding Procedure

  1. Open the master cylinder reservoir and use a syringe or turkey baster to remove most of the old fluid. Leave enough fluid in the reservoir that you do not expose the bottom and draw air into the master cylinder.
  2. Refill the reservoir with fresh fluid of the type marked on the cap. Keep the cap and diaphragm clean and nearby, but do not seal the reservoir while you are still bleeding.
  3. Attach the clear tubing to the first bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle. Make sure the tubing fits snugly so air cannot be pulled in around the bleeder.
  4. Press and hold the brake pedal firmly. With the pedal held, open the bleeder valve about a quarter turn and let fluid and any air escape through the tube.
  5. Close the bleeder valve before releasing the pedal. This order matters: if you release the pedal while the bleeder is open, air can be drawn back into the caliper.
  6. Repeat the press-hold-open-close-release sequence until fresh, clean fluid with no bubbles comes through the tube. Check the reservoir often and top it off before it gets low.
  7. Move to the next caliper only after the first is clean and bubble-free. On a conventional system, the usual starting point is the caliper farthest from the master cylinder, but this F3-S uses a linked system with more bleed points and a required sequence. If you are not confident of the correct order for the linked system, stop and let a shop perform the bleed.
  8. If your machine has more than one front caliper, bleed each front caliper in turn using the same method. Keep the reservoir topped off throughout the job so it never runs dry.

Finishing, Testing, and Leak Checks

When clean fluid runs through the last caliper with no bubbles, close the bleeder snugly without overtightening it. Fill the reservoir to the correct level marking, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe away any spilled fluid. Check each bleeder and the banjo fittings for weeping or wetness. A dry fitting after a few firm pedal applications is a good sign; a fresh drop means the fitting needs attention before the machine is ridden.

The pedal should feel firm and consistent, not spongy, and it should not slowly sink under steady pressure. Spin each wheel by hand to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Before riding normally, test the brakes at low speed in a safe area. If the pedal is firm there and the machine stops straight and predictably, the job is likely complete.

Troubleshooting and When to See a Shop

If the pedal will not firm up after several bleeding attempts, if it firms only after pumping, or if bubbles keep appearing in the tubing, stop and reassess. Persistent air often means the reservoir ran low, a bleeder was opened while the pedal was released, or a fitting is drawing air. Fluid leaking from the master cylinder, caliper, or a line is another reason to stop. Because this F3-S has ABS and linked brakes, any sign that air entered the ABS unit or that the linked system’s sequence was not followed correctly is a shop-level concern. A machine with a pedal that will not hold pressure should not be ridden until the problem is corrected.

Related Shopping Categories

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.