Bleeding the Brakes on a 2015 Honda NC700X
Shop parts for a 2015 Honda NC700X Motorcycle.What You Are Working With on This Bike
The 2015 Honda NC700X stops on hydraulic disc brakes at both ends, so the front lever and the rear pedal each push fluid through a line to a caliper. That is good news for a home mechanic: both circuits can be flushed and bled in your own garage with ordinary hand tools. Before you start, take a close look at your own machine, because Honda sold this model in more than one trim and some versions were fitted with anti-lock braking. An ABS modulator with extra hard lines running near the frame is the giveaway. If your NC700X carries ABS, a normal bleed through the caliper bleeder is still the right way to refresh old fluid, but if the reservoir has ever run dry, or a line or the ABS unit itself has been off the bike, air can sit somewhere a hand bleed will not reach. That situation calls for a dealer-level procedure and a diagnostic tool, so plan on a shop visit instead of a garage session.
One more boundary worth setting up front: this job is about moving old fluid out and air with it. It is not a pad swap, a rotor replacement, or a line upgrade, though any of those jobs is a common reason a brake system ends up needing a bleed afterward.
How to Tell the Fluid Is Due
Some riders bleed on symptoms, others on habit. The symptom list is short and easy to recognize. A lever that feels spongy or soft, a lever that now comes noticeably closer to the grip than it used to, a pedal with a vague, mushy feel, or fluid in the reservoir that has gone dark or cloudy all point to a system that needs attention. So does any recent work that opened the hydraulics — new lines, caliper service, or master cylinder work.
Even with no symptoms at all, brake fluid pulls moisture out of the air over time. That absorbed water lowers the fluid’s boiling point, and under hard or repeated braking it can turn to vapor in the caliper, which shows up as a lever that suddenly goes long or a brake that fades when you need it most. Because of that, many riders simply refresh the fluid on a regular interval rather than waiting for a problem to announce itself.
Tools and Supplies to Have Ready
- Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on your master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container — once a container is opened, it starts absorbing moisture, so use new stock
- A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly
- A length of clear tubing that pushes onto the bleeder nipple without leaking air
- A small catch bottle for the old fluid
- Rags or shop towels, plus a syringe or turkey baster for pulling old fluid out of the reservoir
- The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws
- Optional but helpful: a one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder, either of which makes a solo job much less fiddly
Setting Up Before You Open Anything
Get the NC700X upright and stable on a stand so it cannot tip while you are working the lever. On the front circuit, turn the handlebars until the reservoir sits level, then drape rags over the tank area, the plastics, the instrument cluster, and anything painted below the reservoir. Brake fluid attacks paint and many plastics on contact, so the covering is not optional. If a drop does land somewhere it should not, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water.
The Bleeding Procedure, Step by Step
- With the bike supported and the reservoir level, unscrew the cap and lift out the diaphragm. Set both aside on a clean rag.
- Use the syringe or baster to draw most of the old fluid out of the reservoir, but stop while there is still fluid covering the outlet port at the bottom. Never let the reservoir run dry during this job.
- Refill with fresh fluid from the sealed container, using the type printed on the cap.
- Slip the box-end wrench over the bleeder valve, then push the clear tubing onto the nipple and route the other end into the catch bottle. A little fluid in the bottle helps you see bubbles.
- Squeeze the front lever and hold it steady against the grip.
- Open the bleeder about a quarter turn. Fluid and any trapped air will push out through the tube. Watch the tube, not your hands.
- Close the bleeder before you release the lever. Releasing with the valve open draws air straight back into the caliper.
- Release the lever slowly and let it return on its own, then repeat the squeeze, hold, open, close, release cycle.
- Top off the reservoir after every few cycles so the level never drops near the port.
- Keep cycling until the fluid coming through the tube is clean and free of bubbles, then move to the rear circuit and repeat the same sequence using the pedal and the rear reservoir, checking its level just as carefully.
- If your bike has two front calipers, bleed each one in turn. As a general practice, start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder and work toward the closest.
Closing It Out
When the fluid runs clean at every bleeder, tighten each valve snugly with the box-end wrench — firm enough to seal, never so hard that you crush the seat. Fill the reservoir to the level marking, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe down the whole area. Then look closely at each bleeder and at the banjo fittings at the master cylinder and caliper for weeping or dampness.
Confirming the Job Before You Ride
Pull the lever and press the pedal. Both should feel firm and consistent, and neither should slowly sink while you hold steady pressure on it. Spin each wheel by hand to make sure the brakes are not dragging. Then, in a safe open area, test the brakes at low speed before riding normally.
When to Stop and Take It to a Shop
If the lever will not firm up after several honest attempts, if it only firms up when you pump it, if bubbles keep appearing no matter how long you bleed, or if you find fluid weeping from the master cylinder or a caliper, stop and let a professional look at it. The same applies to any ABS-equipped bike where air may have entered the ABS unit, and to any machine with a linked or combined system that you are not fully confident bleeding in the correct order. Brakes are not the place to guess.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Brake Fluid for a 2015 Honda NC700X Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Lines for a 2015 Honda NC700X Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Pads for a 2015 Honda NC700X Motorcycle.
Shop Stands for a 2015 Honda NC700X Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Tools for a 2015 Honda NC700X Motorcycle.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.
