Bleeding the Brakes on a 2013 Honda NC700X

Shop parts for a 2013 Honda NC700X Motorcycle.

Know Your NC700X Brake Layout First

The 2013 Honda NC700X uses hydraulic disc brakes at both ends, so both the front lever and the rear pedal push fluid through a sealed system that can collect air and moisture over time. That is good news for a home mechanic: there is no mechanical drum brake hiding on the rear wheel that needs to be adjusted instead of bled, and the same basic procedure applies front and rear.

Honda sold this model in more than one trim, and ABS was available on some versions. Before you start, walk around the bike and look for the ABS modulator and the tone rings at the wheels, or check the reservoir caps and any ABS labeling on the bodywork. If your bike is a non-ABS example, the job is a straightforward manual bleed. If it is an ABS-equipped bike, a routine flush through the caliper bleeders is still the normal way to refresh fluid, but air that has traveled into the ABS unit itself is a different problem and is covered near the end of this article.

Front and rear systems on this bike are independent, so treat them as two separate jobs. Do the front first, then the rear, and keep the two reservoirs and their fluid separate throughout.

Signs That It Is Time to Bleed

The most obvious trigger is feel. A front lever that has gone soft, or that now comes back closer to the grip than it used to, usually means air is in the system. The same goes for a rear pedal that feels mushy or has more travel than you remember. A lever that firms up when you pump it and then goes soft again while you hold it is a classic air symptom.

Look at the fluid in the reservoir sight glass or under the cap. Fresh fluid is clear and pale; fluid that has gone dark, cloudy, or gritty has done its time. Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air even in a sealed system, and that moisture lowers the fluid's boiling point. On a long descent or a hard stop, fluid that boils creates vapor, and vapor compresses just like air, which is how riders end up with a lever that goes to the bar when they need it most. Many owners simply refresh the fluid on a regular interval rather than waiting for a symptom.

Any job that opened the hydraulics also requires a bleed afterward: new brake lines, a caliper rebuild or replacement, master cylinder work, or a system that was left open long enough to drain.

Tools and Supplies to Gather

  • Fresh brake fluid of the type printed on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container. Do not substitute a different type, and do not use a bottle that has been open and sitting on a shelf.
  • A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly. A box-end grips the flats far better than an open-end and is much less likely to round the bleeder.
  • A length of clear tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder nipple, plus a small catch bottle to hang it in.
  • Rags or shop towels, and a spray bottle of water for rinsing spills.
  • A syringe or turkey baster for pulling old fluid out of the reservoir.
  • The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws.
  • Optional but helpful: a one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder, either of which makes a one-person job much less fiddly.

Setting Up Before You Open Anything

Get the bike stable first. Put it on a stand or otherwise support it upright so it cannot tip while you are leaning on the lever. For the front, turn the handlebar so the reservoir on the master cylinder sits as level as possible; a tilted reservoir spills fluid the moment the cap comes off.

Then protect the bike. Brake fluid attacks paint, clearcoat, and many plastics on contact, and the NC700X has bodywork and an instrument cluster right where you will be working. Drape rags over the tank area, the front cowl, the handlebar controls, and the rear bodywork around the rear reservoir. If a drop lands on a painted surface, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water rather than waiting until you are finished.

Bleeding the Front Brake

  1. Remove the reservoir cap and the diaphragm beneath it, setting them on a clean rag face up.
  2. Use the syringe or baster to draw most of the old fluid out of the reservoir. Leave enough to cover the port at the bottom so you do not push air into the line.
  3. Refill with fresh fluid from the sealed container, taking care not to splash.
  4. Fit the clear tubing over the front bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle, with the bottle positioned so the tubing runs upward away from the bleeder before dropping to the bottle.
  5. Squeeze the front lever slowly and hold it against the grip.
  6. With the lever held, open the bleeder about a quarter turn with the box-end wrench. Fluid and any trapped air will push out through the tubing.
  7. Close the bleeder before you release the lever. Releasing with the bleeder open draws air straight back into the caliper, which is the single most common mistake in this job.
  8. Release the lever, then repeat the squeeze–hold–open–close–release cycle. Check the reservoir level every few cycles and top it up so it never runs low enough to suck air in.
  9. Keep going until the fluid coming through the tubing is clean and free of bubbles, and the lever feels firm rather than spongy.

If your bike has two front calipers, bleed each one in turn rather than trying to do both at once. As a general practice, start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder in terms of hydraulic path, then move to the closer one, and finish with a final pass at the first caliper if the lever still is not firm.

Bleeding the Rear Brake

  1. Open the rear reservoir, remove most of the old fluid, and top up with fresh fluid.
  2. Attach the clear tubing to the rear caliper bleeder and lead it to the catch bottle.
  3. Press and hold the brake pedal down.
  4. Open the bleeder a quarter turn while the pedal is held, let fluid and air escape, then close the bleeder before letting the pedal return.
  5. Repeat, watching the reservoir level and topping up as needed, until the fluid runs clean and bubble-free and the pedal feels solid.

Finishing Up and Checking for Leaks

When the fluid runs clean at both ends, close each bleeder snugly. Snug is the goal, not gorilla-tight; the bleeder seals on a small tapered seat and overtightening can damage it. Fill each reservoir to the level marking on the body, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe down every surface you touched. Then look closely at the bleeder valves and at the banjo fittings at the master cylinder and caliper for any weeping. A dry paper towel pressed against a fitting will show a leak that your eyes might miss.

Testing Before You Ride

With the bike still supported, squeeze the front lever and press the rear pedal firmly. Both should feel firm and consistent, and neither should slowly sink while you hold steady pressure. Spin each wheel by hand to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Then, in a safe open area at low speed, test the brakes gently before riding normally. If anything feels vague, stop and re-bleed rather than hoping it settles in.

When to Stop and Take It to a Shop

Some problems are not solved by more pumping. If the lever will not firm up after several honest bleeding attempts, if it only firms up after pumping and then fades, if bubbles keep appearing no matter how long you work, or if you find fluid weeping from the master cylinder or a caliper, stop and have the bike inspected. On an ABS-equipped NC700X, any situation where the reservoir ran dry, the ABS unit was disturbed, or the lines were disconnected can leave air trapped where a hand bleed cannot reach it; that requires dealer-level equipment and should go to a shop. The same applies if you are not confident you have the full sequence right on a bike with more complex hydraulic routing. Brakes are not the place to guess.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Brake Fluid for a 2013 Honda NC700X Motorcycle.

Shop Brake Lines for a 2013 Honda NC700X Motorcycle.

Shop Brake Pads for a 2013 Honda NC700X Motorcycle.

Shop Stands for a 2013 Honda NC700X Motorcycle.

Shop Brake Tools for a 2013 Honda NC700X Motorcycle.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.