How To Bleed 2014 Honda NC700X Motorcycle Brakes

How to Bleed the Brakes on a 2014 Honda NC700X

The 2014 Honda NC700X uses hydraulic disc brakes at both ends, so both the front lever and the rear pedal act on fluid-filled circuits. That makes a proper bleed a two-circuit job rather than a single-wheel task. Some NC700X models from this era were sold with ABS, so confirm what is on your bike before you begin. A routine fluid refresh through the caliper bleeders is generally straightforward, but if your bike has ABS and air has entered the ABS unit itself, the final bleed may need dealer-level equipment.

When a Bleed Is Needed

Bleeding does two jobs: it removes air that makes the lever or pedal feel soft, and it replaces old fluid that has absorbed moisture. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it pulls moisture from the air over time. That lowers its boiling point and can contribute to fade when the brakes are worked hard, even if the bike feels fine in normal riding. A spongy lever, a pedal that travels farther than it used to, a lever that pulls closer to the grip, or dark and cloudy fluid in the reservoir are all signs to service the system.

You should also bleed the brakes after any work that opened the hydraulic system. That includes installing new brake lines, servicing a caliper, replacing a master cylinder, or allowing the reservoir to run dry. On a 2014 NC700X, the front and rear circuits are separate, so a problem at one end does not automatically mean the other end needs bleeding, but many riders refresh both at the same time because the fluid is usually due on the same schedule.

Tools and Supplies to Gather

• Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container
• A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve
• Clear tubing that fits snugly over the bleeder valve
• A clean catch bottle for used fluid
• Rags or shop towels, plus a syringe or turkey baster for removing old fluid from the reservoir
• The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws
• Optional: a one-way check-valve bleeder or vacuum bleeder for one-person work

Use only fluid from a sealed container, and do not reuse fluid that has been sitting open. Brake fluid that has absorbed moisture is exactly what you are trying to remove. A clear tube matters because it lets you watch the fluid and the bubbles as they come out, and a catch bottle keeps used fluid from dripping onto the bike or the floor.

Preparation Before Opening the System

Support the NC700X securely upright on a stand so it cannot tip while you are working the lever or pedal. For the front circuit, turn the handlebars so the reservoir sits level before you remove the cap. Cover the painted bodywork, the instrument area, and any plastic near the reservoir with rags. Most brake fluid damages paint and plastic on contact, so wipe up spills immediately and rinse the area with water if fluid reaches a painted surface.

Before you loosen anything, check the reservoir cap for the fluid type specified for your bike. Do not substitute a different fluid based on what someone else uses. Also confirm whether your particular NC700X has ABS. If it does, keep in mind that a normal caliper bleed is fine for routine fluid replacement, but air that has traveled into the ABS modulator is a different situation and should be handled by a shop.

Step-by-Step Bleeding Procedure

1. Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm. Use a syringe or turkey baster to draw most of the old fluid out of the reservoir, but leave enough to cover the outlet at the bottom so you do not push air into the system.
2. Refill the reservoir with fresh fluid of the type marked on the cap. Keep the container clean and closed between top-offs.
3. Fit the clear tubing over the bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle. Make sure the tube fits snugly so air cannot be drawn in around it.
4. For the front brake, squeeze the lever several times and then hold it firmly. For the rear, press and hold the pedal. Keep steady pressure on the lever or pedal while you open the bleeder.
5. Open the bleeder about a quarter turn with the box-end wrench. Fluid and air will move through the tube. Close the bleeder before you release the lever or pedal. Releasing first can draw air back into the caliper.
6. Release the lever or pedal, then repeat the squeeze-and-hold, open-and-close sequence. Check the reservoir after every few cycles and top it off before it gets low. Never let the reservoir run dry enough to pull air into the master cylinder.
7. Continue until the fluid coming through the clear tube is clean and free of bubbles. If your bike has more than one front caliper, bleed each caliper as its own bleed point, one at a time. As a general practice, start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder.
8. When the front circuit is done, repeat the same sequence at the rear caliper if the rear brake is hydraulic, which it is on the NC700X. Keep the rear reservoir topped off and close the bleeder before releasing the pedal each time.

Finishing the Job

Once clean, bubble-free fluid comes through, close the bleeder snugly. Tighten it firmly enough to seal, but do not overtighten it or you can damage the seat. Fill the reservoir to the correct level marking, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe away any fluid that reached the outside of the reservoir or caliper. Check the bleeder and the banjo fittings for weeping or drips. A dry fitting after several lever or pedal applications is a good sign that the system is sealed.

Testing Before You Ride

The lever and pedal should feel firm and consistent, not spongy, and they should not slowly sink while you hold steady pressure. Spin each wheel by hand to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Then test at low speed in a safe area, using both brakes gently before riding normally. If the lever still feels soft, or if it firms up only after several pumps, stop and diagnose the problem rather than riding.

Troubleshooting and When to See a Shop

A lever that will not firm up after several bleeding attempts, persistent bubbles in the clear tube, fluid leaking from the master cylinder or caliper, or a lever that slowly sinks under steady pressure all point to a problem that may be beyond a simple bleed. If your NC700X has ABS and the reservoir ran dry, or if the ABS unit or its lines were disconnected, the system may need a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool. The same applies if your bike has any combined braking feature and you are not confident about the correct sequence. In those cases, have the bike inspected and bled by a qualified shop before riding.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Brake Fluid for a 2014 Honda NC700X Motorcycle.

Shop Brake Lines for a 2014 Honda NC700X Motorcycle.

Shop Brake Pads for a 2014 Honda NC700X Motorcycle.

Shop Stands for a 2014 Honda NC700X Motorcycle.

Shop Brake Tools for a 2014 Honda NC700X Motorcycle.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.