How to Bleed the Brakes on a 2013 Honda CBR500R ABS

Shop parts for a 2013 Honda CBR500R ABS Motorcycle.

Your 2013 Honda CBR500R ABS stops on hydraulic disc brakes at both the front and rear wheel, and both circuits are watched over by an anti-lock braking system. That shapes this job in two ways. Because both ends are hydraulic, both ends get bled. And because the bike carries ABS, a routine fluid refresh through the caliper bleeders is a perfectly reasonable garage task, while anything that drives air up into the ABS modulator is not. Keep that line in mind as you work through the steps below.

Understanding the Layout Before You Touch Anything

The front brake runs off the lever on the right handlebar, which pushes a master cylinder with its own small reservoir. The rear runs off the pedal on the right side, with a separate master cylinder and reservoir of its own. These are two independent circuits — separate fluid, separate lines, separate bleeder at each caliper — so you can finish one end completely before starting the other, and a slip on the front will not contaminate the rear.

The ABS modulator sits between the master cylinders and the calipers, and in normal service it stays full of fluid. As long as you never let a reservoir run dry and never crack a fitting above the caliper, air stays out of the modulator and a hand bleed does everything you need. If a line has been disconnected at the modulator, or the reservoir has been sucked empty, that changes — more on that at the end.

Signs That the Fluid Needs Replacing

A soft or spongy lever is the classic complaint, and so is a lever that now comes noticeably closer to the grip than it used to. On the rear, watch for a pedal with more travel than it once had or one that feels vague under your boot. Pull the reservoir cap and look at the fluid: fresh fluid is clear and pale, while fluid that has been in service for years turns dark, cloudy, or murky.

Any repair that opened the hydraulic system — new lines, caliper service, master cylinder work — means a bleed afterward, no exceptions. Beyond symptoms, brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air over time, and that moisture lowers its boiling point. A bike that feels fine on short rides can fade under hard, repeated braking when old fluid gets hot. Many riders simply refresh the fluid on a regular interval rather than waiting for a problem to announce itself.

Tools and Supplies to Have Ready

  • Fresh brake fluid of the type printed on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container
  • A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly
  • Clear tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder nipple
  • A small catch bottle for the old fluid
  • Rags or shop towels, plus a syringe or turkey baster for pulling old fluid out of the reservoir
  • The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws
  • Optional: a one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder, both of which make a solo job easier

Setting Up the Bike and Protecting the Finish

Get the CBR500R upright and stable on a stand so you can work without the bike shifting. Turn the handlebars until the front reservoir sits level, because a tilted reservoir will spill the moment the cap comes off. Then drape rags over the tank, the surrounding plastics, and the instrument area.

This matters more than it sounds. Most brake fluid attacks paint and plastic on contact, and a single drip left on a fairing can leave a permanent mark. Wipe up any spill immediately and rinse the area with water. Keep the cap on the reservoir whenever you are not actively adding fluid.

Bleeding the Front Brake

  1. Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm, then use the syringe or baster to draw most of the old fluid out. Do not pump the lever with the reservoir low.
  2. Refill with fresh fluid from the sealed container, leaving the reservoir comfortably full.
  3. Push the clear tubing onto the front bleeder and route the other end into the catch bottle, with the bottle positioned so you can see the tube.
  4. Squeeze the lever slowly and hold it against the grip.
  5. With the lever held, open the bleeder about a quarter turn. Fluid and any trapped air will push out through the tube.
  6. Close the bleeder before you release the lever. Releasing first pulls air back in through the open valve.
  7. Release the lever and let it return fully. Repeat the squeeze, hold, open, close, release cycle.
  8. Watch the tube as you go. You are finished when the fluid running through it is clean and free of bubbles.
  9. Top the reservoir off after every few cycles so it never drops low enough to draw air into the master cylinder.

If your bike carries two front calipers, bleed them one at a time and finish the first completely before starting the second. A useful general habit is to begin with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder and work back toward it.

Bleeding the Rear Brake

  1. Open the rear reservoir, remove the diaphragm, and draw out the old fluid.
  2. Refill with fresh fluid and fit the clear tubing over the rear bleeder, running it into the catch bottle.
  3. Press and hold the pedal down.
  4. Open the bleeder a quarter turn while the pedal is held, then close it before letting the pedal up.
  5. Repeat the press, hold, open, close, release sequence, topping off the reservoir as you go.
  6. Stop when the fluid in the tube runs clean and bubble-free.

Finishing Up and Checking for Leaks

Tighten each bleeder snugly with the box-end wrench. Snug is the goal — overtightening can damage the valve seat and create a leak where there was none. Bring the fluid up to the correct level marking on the reservoir, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe down every surface you touched. Then inspect the bleeder and the banjo fittings at the caliper and master cylinder for weeping or dampness.

Testing Before You Ride

Both controls should feel firm and consistent, not spongy. Hold steady pressure on the lever and on the pedal for a slow count and confirm neither gradually sinks. Spin each wheel by hand to make sure the brakes are not dragging. Then, in a safe open area, test the brakes at low speed before riding normally.

When to Stop and Take It to a Shop

If the lever will not firm up after several honest attempts, if it only firms after pumping, or if bubbles keep appearing no matter how long you bleed, something is admitting air and the system needs professional attention. The same goes for fluid leaking from the master cylinder or caliper. And if the reservoir ran dry, or the ABS unit or its lines were disconnected, air may now be inside the modulator — that calls for a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool, not a hand bleed. Put the bike in the hands of a shop rather than riding it with a brake you do not trust.

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.