How to Bleed the Brakes on a 2013 Ducati Multistrada 1200S Pikes Peak
Shop parts for a 2013 Ducati Multistrada 1200S Pikes Peak Motorcycle.
What This Multistrada’s Brake Layout Means for the Job
The 2013 Ducati Multistrada 1200S Pikes Peak uses hydraulic disc brakes at both the front and rear, and it is equipped with ABS. That gives you two hydraulic circuits to service when you refresh fluid or remove air: the front lever circuit and the rear pedal circuit. A routine fluid flush can normally be handled at the caliper bleeders, but the ABS unit changes the stakes if air has entered it. If the reservoir has run dry, a line or the ABS unit has been opened, or the lever never firms up after repeated bleeding, stop and have the bike serviced by a shop with the appropriate diagnostic equipment. Do not try to invent an ABS bleed sequence at home.
When a Bleed Is Due—and Why It Matters
A spongy lever or a rear pedal that feels soft and long is the classic sign that air is in the system. So is a lever that pulls closer to the grip than it used to, or one that slowly sinks while you hold steady pressure. Dark or cloudy fluid in the reservoir is another reason to act. You should also bleed the brakes after any work that opened the hydraulic system, such as new brake lines, caliper service, or master cylinder work.
Even without symptoms, brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air over time. That moisture lowers the fluid’s boiling point, which can lead to brake fade under hard or repeated use. Many riders refresh brake fluid on a regular schedule as preventive maintenance, especially on a bike like the Multistrada 1200S Pikes Peak that can be ridden hard in mountain terrain. Bleeding is not just about removing air; it is also the right time to flush old fluid out of the calipers and lines.
Tools and Supplies to Stage Before You Start
- Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container
- A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve
- A length of clear tubing that fits snugly over the bleeder
- A catch bottle for the old fluid
- Rags or shop towels
- A syringe or turkey baster for removing old fluid from the reservoir
- A screwdriver or driver that fits the reservoir cap screws
A one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder can make the job easier when you are working alone, but the basic lever-and-bleeder method works fine with a helper or with patience. Keep the catch bottle low and stable so the tubing does not pull the bleeder sideways.
Preparing the Bike and Protecting Sensitive Surfaces
Support the Multistrada securely upright on a stand so it cannot tip while you are working the lever or pedal. Turn the handlebars so the front reservoir sits level before you open it. Cover painted surfaces, plastics, and the instrument area with rags, because most brake fluids damage paint and plastic on contact. If a spill happens, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water. Do not let fluid sit on the reservoir cap or surrounding bodywork.
Before opening anything, check that you have the correct fluid type from the reservoir cap marking and that the container is fresh and sealed. Brake fluid that has been sitting open can already contain moisture, which defeats the purpose of the flush.
Bleeding the Front and Rear Systems Step by Step
- Open the front reservoir and use the syringe or turkey baster to remove most of the old fluid. Do not let the reservoir run dry, and do not splash fluid onto the bike.
- Refill the reservoir with fresh fluid to the upper level marking.
- Attach the clear tubing to the front caliper bleeder and route the other end into the catch bottle. If your bike has two front calipers, bleed one at a time; many riders start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder, then do the other.
- Squeeze and hold the front lever. Open the bleeder about a quarter turn to let fluid and air escape through the tubing.
- Close the bleeder before you release the lever. Releasing with the bleeder open can draw air back into the caliper.
- Repeat the squeeze-hold-open-close-release cycle until fresh, clean, bubble-free fluid comes through the tube. Keep topping off the reservoir throughout so it never runs low enough to draw air in.
- Move to the second front caliper if equipped, using the same sequence and keeping the reservoir topped off.
- For the rear, open the rear reservoir, remove most of the old fluid, and refill with fresh fluid. Attach the clear tubing to the rear caliper bleeder and route it to the catch bottle.
- Press and hold the rear pedal, open the bleeder about a quarter turn, then close it before releasing the pedal. Repeat until the fluid runs clean and free of bubbles, topping off the reservoir as needed.
- When both circuits are done, tighten each bleeder snugly without overtightening. Fill each reservoir to the correct level marking, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and clean any spilled fluid.
- Check for leaks at the bleeder and at the banjo fittings before you ride.
Finishing Up and Confirming a Firm Lever and Pedal
With the reservoirs capped and the bleeders closed, pump the front lever and rear pedal a few times. The lever and pedal should feel firm and consistent, not spongy, and they should not slowly sink under steady pressure. Spin each wheel to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Test the brakes at low speed in a safe area before riding normally, and make sure the bike tracks straight and stops predictably.
Troubleshooting: When the Garage Job Should Become a Shop Job
If the lever will not firm up after several bleeding attempts, or it firms up only after pumping, air is still getting in or has not been fully removed. Persistent bubbles at the bleeder, fluid leaking from the master cylinder or caliper, or a pedal that feels different after a short test ride all point to a problem that needs closer inspection. On an ABS-equipped Multistrada 1200S Pikes Peak, any situation where air may have entered the ABS unit itself is a shop job. The same applies if you are not confident that the system has been fully purged. Brakes are safety-critical, so it is better to stop and let a professional finish the job than to ride on a system that is not right.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Brake Fluid for a 2013 Ducati Multistrada 1200S Pikes Peak Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Lines for a 2013 Ducati Multistrada 1200S Pikes Peak Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Pads for a 2013 Ducati Multistrada 1200S Pikes Peak Motorcycle.
Shop Stands for a 2013 Ducati Multistrada 1200S Pikes Peak Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Tools for a 2013 Ducati Multistrada 1200S Pikes Peak Motorcycle.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.
