Bleeding the Brakes on a 2013 Can-Am Spyder ST-S SE5

Shop parts for a 2013 Can-Am Spyder ST-S SE5 Motorcycle.

The 2013 Can-Am Spyder ST-S SE5 is not a conventional motorcycle, and its brake system is the first place that difference becomes obvious. There is no front brake lever on the handlebar. A foot pedal on the right side of the roadster operates hydraulic disc brakes at all three wheels, with the ABS module and the vehicle stability electronics proportioning and modulating pressure as you brake. That linked, ABS-equipped layout is the context for everything below: you are bleeding one hydraulic circuit that serves the whole machine, and the ABS unit sits between the master cylinder and the calipers.

Two practical consequences follow. A routine fluid flush performed at the caliper bleeders is well within reach of a careful home mechanic with basic hand tools. But if air has been allowed into the ABS unit itself — because the reservoir ran dry, a line was disconnected, or the module was serviced — caliper bleeding alone will not bring the pedal back to a firm feel, and the Spyder needs to go to a dealer with the appropriate diagnostic equipment. Keep that boundary in mind throughout the job.

Signs Your ST-S Is Due for a Bleed

The most common tip-off is a pedal that feels soft or spongy, or one that travels noticeably farther before the brakes bite than it used to. A pedal that firms up only after two or three pumps is a classic air symptom. Pull the reservoir cap and look at the fluid: dark, cloudy, or gritty fluid has done its time, even if the brakes still feel acceptable. Any work that opened the hydraulic system — new lines, caliper service, master cylinder work — means a bleed afterward, no exceptions.

Even with no symptoms at all, brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air over time. That moisture lowers the fluid's boiling point, and a heavy three-wheeled roadster like the ST-S generates real heat at the calipers during hard or repeated braking. Boiling fluid creates gas, gas creates a soft pedal, and a soft pedal on a linked system affects all three wheels at once. Refreshing the fluid on a regular schedule is cheap insurance against that scenario.

Tools and Supplies to Gather First

  • Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container — never from a bottle that has been open and sitting on a shelf
  • A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly
  • A length of clear tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder nipple
  • A small catch bottle for the old fluid
  • Rags or shop towels, plus something to drape over painted panels
  • A syringe or turkey baster for emptying the reservoir
  • The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws
  • Optional: a one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder, both of which make a solo job easier

Setting Up the Spyder Safely

Work on level ground with the parking brake set. On the Spyder, the master cylinder reservoir is not sitting out in the open the way a motorcycle's handlebar reservoir is; you will need to remove the bodywork access panel that covers it, so plan for that before you start. Once the reservoir is exposed, drape rags over the surrounding painted panels, the instrument area, and any plastic trim. Brake fluid damages paint and plastic on contact, and a drip you do not notice today becomes a permanent mark later. If a spill does happen, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water.

Step-by-Step Bleeding Procedure

  1. Clean the area around the reservoir cap before opening it, then remove the cap and the diaphragm and set them aside on a clean rag.
  2. Use the syringe or baster to draw most of the old fluid out of the reservoir. Leave enough to cover the bottom port — the reservoir must never be run dry, or you will pull air straight into the system.
  3. Refill the reservoir with fresh fluid to the level marking.
  4. Pick a caliper to start with. General practice is to begin at the caliper farthest from the master cylinder along the hydraulic path, then work through the remaining calipers one at a time. On a linked system, do not skip any caliper — each one has to be bled.
  5. Fit the box-end wrench over the bleeder, then push the clear tubing onto the nipple and route the other end into the catch bottle, with the tube's end submerged in a little fluid.
  6. Press and hold the brake pedal firmly.
  7. Open the bleeder about a quarter turn. Fluid and any trapped air will travel down the tube, and the pedal will sink toward the floor.
  8. Close the bleeder before you release the pedal. Releasing first draws air back in through the bleeder threads.
  9. Release the pedal slowly and let it return fully.
  10. Repeat the press-hold-open-close-release cycle, checking the reservoir every few cycles and topping it off so it never drops low enough to draw air.
  11. Continue until the fluid coming through the tube is clean, fresh, and free of bubbles. Then move to the next caliper and repeat the whole cycle.

Finishing Up and Checking Your Work

When the last caliper is done, tighten each bleeder snugly with the box-end wrench — firm enough to seal, never so tight that you risk damaging the caliper threads. Fill the reservoir to the correct level marking, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe down every surface you touched. Then inspect the bleeder fittings and the banjo fittings at each caliper and at the master cylinder for weeping or dampness. Reinstall the bodywork access panel.

Testing Before You Ride

With the machine stationary, press the brake pedal firmly and hold steady pressure on it. It should feel firm and consistent, and it should not slowly sink toward the floor. Raise the rear wheel and spin it by hand, and check that the front wheels turn freely as well — any dragging suggests a caliper that is not releasing. Then take the Spyder to an empty lot and test the brakes at low speed before riding normally. The linked layout means a problem shows up at all three wheels at once, so a slow, deliberate first test matters.

When to Stop and Take It to a Shop

If the pedal will not firm up after several full bleeding cycles, if it only firms after pumping, or if bubbles keep appearing no matter how long you bleed, stop and reassess. Fluid leaking from the master cylinder or a caliper is a hard stop. And because this ST-S uses an ABS module inside a linked system, any situation where air may have entered the ABS unit itself — a reservoir that ran dry, a line opened at the module, a system that was allowed to sit empty — is a dealer job. The parts are fine; the procedure to purge that module is not a home-garage one.

Related Shopping Categories

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.