Bleeding the Brakes on a 2013 Can-Am Spyder ST SM5

Shop parts for a 2013 Can-Am Spyder ST SM5 Motorcycle.

First, Understand What You Are Working On

The 2013 Can-Am Spyder ST SM5 is a three-wheeled roadster, and its braking hardware is hydraulic disc at all three wheels, with ABS fitted as part of the package. That combination changes the job in a couple of important ways compared with a conventional two-wheeler.

The most noticeable difference is at the handlebar: there is no front brake lever. A single right-foot pedal drives the entire system through a linked arrangement that proportions effort between the two front calipers and the rear caliper. Because the pedal operates all three wheels, the Spyder has more bleed points than a simple single-circuit motorcycle, and the order in which you work through them matters. This article covers a standard pedal-and-bleeder flush — the right approach for routine fluid refresh and for air that entered at a caliper during pad or line service. If air has made its way into the ABS modulator itself, or the system was opened at the modulator, that is a dealer-level job and is covered at the end.

When a Bleed Is Actually Due

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it pulls moisture out of the air over time. That absorbed water lowers the fluid's boiling point, and under hard or repeated braking the fluid can boil and create gas in the system — the classic fade that shows up as a pedal that goes long and soft just when you need it most. For that reason many riders refresh the fluid on a regular interval even when nothing feels wrong.

Bleed promptly if the pedal feels spongy or mushy, if it travels farther than it used to before the brakes bite, if the fluid in the reservoir looks dark, cloudy, or gritty, or if you have just replaced a line, serviced a caliper, or done master cylinder work. Any of those jobs lets air into the circuit, and air compresses where fluid does not.

Tools and Supplies to Gather First

  • Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container — once a container is opened it starts absorbing moisture, so use new stock
  • A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valves snugly
  • A length of clear tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder nipple
  • A small catch bottle, ideally with a little clean fluid already in the bottom so the tube stays submerged
  • Rags or shop towels, plus a syringe or turkey baster for pulling old fluid out of the reservoir
  • The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws
  • Optional but genuinely helpful for a solo job: a one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder

Staging the Bike Before You Open Anything

Park the Spyder on level ground and support it so it cannot roll or tip. Set the parking brake while you work, but remember to release it before you test the brakes at the end — the parking brake is a separate system and is not part of this bleed. Locate the master cylinder reservoir, which on this machine sits under the front bodywork, and turn the front wheels so the reservoir sits as level as possible before you remove the cap.

Brake fluid attacks paint and many plastics on contact, so drape rags over the bodywork, the instrument area, and anything below the reservoir before you start. If a spill happens, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water rather than letting it sit.

The Bleeding Procedure, Step by Step

  1. Clean the reservoir cap and surrounding area so no dirt drops in, then remove the cap and diaphragm.
  2. Use the syringe or baster to draw most of the old fluid out of the reservoir. Leave a little in the bottom — do not let the reservoir run dry, or you will pull air straight into the system.
  3. Refill with fresh fluid to the upper level marking.
  4. Push the clear tubing onto the first bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle.
  5. Press and hold the brake pedal down firmly and keep it held.
  6. Open the bleeder about a quarter turn with the box-end wrench. Fluid and any trapped air will push out through the tube.
  7. Close the bleeder before you release the pedal. Releasing with the bleeder open draws air back in through the nipple.
  8. Release the pedal slowly, then check the reservoir and top it off again.
  9. Repeat the press–open–close–release cycle until the fluid coming through the tube runs clean and free of bubbles.
  10. Move to the next caliper and repeat. As a general practice, start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder and work toward the closest, doing one caliper completely before moving on. On a linked system like this one, if you have the correct sequence for your machine, follow it; if you do not, work methodically one caliper at a time and recheck pedal feel after each.
  11. Check the reservoir level after every few cycles. Running it low is the single most common way a straightforward bleed turns into a long one.

Closing Up and Confirming the Job

When the fluid runs clean at every bleeder, top the reservoir to the correct level marking, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and tighten the cap screws evenly. Snug each bleeder valve firmly with the box-end wrench — tight enough that it will not weep, but without overtightening and damaging the seat. Wipe down the calipers, bleeders, and banjo fittings, then look closely for any weeping at those joints after a few pedal applications.

Testing Before You Ride, and When to Stop

With the parking brake released, the pedal should feel firm and consistent, and it should hold steady under sustained pressure rather than slowly sinking. Spin each wheel by hand to confirm nothing is dragging. Then, in a safe open area, test the brakes at low speed before riding normally.

If the pedal will not firm up after several rounds of bleeding, if it only firms up after pumping, if bubbles keep appearing, or if you see fluid at the master cylinder or a caliper, stop and diagnose rather than riding. And if the reservoir ever ran dry, or the ABS unit or its lines were disturbed, the modulator may hold air that a pedal bleed cannot expel — that calls for a shop with the appropriate diagnostic equipment. There is no shame in handing off a linked ABS system; there is real risk in guessing at it.

Related Shopping Categories

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Shop Stands for a 2013 Can-Am Spyder ST SM5 Motorcycle.

Shop Brake Tools for a 2013 Can-Am Spyder ST SM5 Motorcycle.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.