Bleeding the Brakes on a 2015 Can-Am Spyder ST SM5
Shop parts for a 2015 Can-Am Spyder ST SM5 Motorcycle.How the Spyder ST SM5 Brake System Is Arranged
The 2015 Can-Am Spyder ST SM5 is a three-wheeled roadster, and its braking hardware reflects that layout. Instead of a hand lever on the right bar, the ST uses a single foot pedal on the right side that actuates hydraulic disc brakes at all three wheels through a linked arrangement, and that system is managed by ABS. For a bleed, this means one master cylinder and one pedal to work with, but more than one caliper to service, and fluid that travels through considerably more line and more junctions than on a conventional two-wheel motorcycle. Air trapped anywhere in that network shows up as a pedal that travels long and feels soft.
Because the system is both linked and ABS-equipped, a routine fluid refresh through the caliper bleeders is a reasonable home job for a rider with moderate confidence. Anything past that — air drawn into the ABS unit itself, a replaced component, a disconnected line — is a different matter and belongs at a shop with the proper diagnostic equipment.
When a Bleed Is Actually Due
Bleeding does two jobs at once: it pushes old fluid out and it carries air out with it. The symptoms that call for it are easy to recognize. The pedal may feel spongy or may sink closer to its stop than it used to. It may firm up only after a couple of pumps. The fluid visible in the reservoir may look dark, cloudy, or gritty rather than clear. Any of those signs means it is time.
There is also the calendar side of it. Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air over time, and moisture lowers the fluid's boiling point, which is what allows fade to develop during hard or repeated braking. That happens gradually and without obvious warning, which is why many riders refresh the fluid on a regular interval even when the pedal still feels fine. A bleed is also mandatory after any work that opened the hydraulic circuit — new lines, caliper service, or master cylinder work.
Tools and Supplies to Collect First
- Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container
- A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly
- Clear tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder nipple
- A small catch bottle for the old fluid
- Rags or shop towels, plus a syringe or turkey baster for emptying the reservoir
- The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws
- Optional: a one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder, both of which make a solo job much easier
Setting Up Before Anything Is Opened
Park on level ground and secure the Spyder so it cannot roll or tip. The reservoir needs to sit level while the cap is off, so confirm the machine is truly upright rather than resting on a slope. Brake fluid attacks paint and many plastics on contact, so drape rags over the bodywork, the surrounding panels, and the area around the reservoir before you loosen anything. Keep a water source handy and rinse any spill immediately, then wipe the area dry.
The Bleeding Procedure, Step by Step
- Wipe the reservoir cap and the area around it clean so no dirt falls in, then remove the cap and the diaphragm.
- Draw most of the old fluid out of the reservoir with the syringe or baster. Leave enough to cover the outlet at the bottom — never let the reservoir run dry, or you will pull air straight into the system.
- Top the reservoir up with fresh fluid from the sealed container.
- Push the clear tubing onto the bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle, with the bottle positioned so you can see the fluid moving through the tube.
- Press and hold the brake pedal down firmly and keep it held.
- Open the bleeder about a quarter turn. Fluid and any trapped air will push out through the tube.
- Close the bleeder before you release the pedal. Releasing with the bleeder open draws air back in through the nipple, which undoes the work.
- Release the pedal, then check the reservoir level and top it off again.
- Repeat the press–open–close–release cycle until the fluid coming through the tube runs clean and free of bubbles.
- Move to the next caliper and repeat. Work one caliper at a time, and keep the reservoir topped up at every stage. As a general habit, start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder — but on a linked system the correct order can matter, so if you are not certain of it for this machine, have a shop perform the bleed.
Closing Up and Confirming the Result
When the fluid runs clear at every caliper, tighten each bleeder snugly. Snug is the goal — overtightening can damage the seat and cause a leak. Fill the reservoir to the level marking, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe away every trace of spilled fluid. Then inspect the bleeder nipples and the banjo fittings at each caliper for weeping or dampness.
Testing Before You Ride Normally
With the machine stationary, press the pedal firmly and hold steady pressure on it. It should feel firm and consistent, and it should not creep slowly toward the floor. Spin each wheel by hand to confirm nothing is dragging. Then, in a safe open area, test the brakes at low speed before riding in traffic.
When to Stop and Take It to a Shop
If the pedal will not firm up after several rounds of bleeding, if it only firms after pumping, if bubbles keep appearing no matter how long you work, or if fluid is seeping from the master cylinder or a caliper, stop and have the machine inspected. The same applies if the reservoir ever ran dry or if any part of the ABS unit or its lines was disturbed — that can require dealer-level equipment to purge correctly.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Brake Fluid for a 2015 Can-Am Spyder ST SM5 Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Lines for a 2015 Can-Am Spyder ST SM5 Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Pads for a 2015 Can-Am Spyder ST SM5 Motorcycle.
Shop Stands for a 2015 Can-Am Spyder ST SM5 Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Tools for a 2015 Can-Am Spyder ST SM5 Motorcycle.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.