Fuel Line Service for the 2022 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 DPS

Shop parts for a 2022 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 DPS ATV.

Identify what kind of fuel system you are dealing with and the rest of this job falls into place. The 2022 Outlander MAX 570 DPS carries a fuel-injected Rotax 570, which means an electric pump lives inside the tank and pushes fuel down the line under pressure. There is no petcock, no float bowl, and no gravity feed anywhere in the picture, so the habits carried over from older carbureted quads do not transfer here.

What Fuel Injection Changes About This Repair

On a carbureted machine you close a valve and the fuel stops. This MAX has no such valve, so you provide the shutoff yourself with line-clamping pliers and you deliberately bleed off system pressure before opening any joint. Fuel remains pressurized in the line after shutdown, sometimes for hours.

Two more consequences follow. First, the replacement hose has to carry an injection pressure rating — low-pressure carburetor line swells and eventually seeps when subjected to pump pressure. Second, the tank outlet may use a self-locking quick-connect coupler instead of a barb and clamp, which changes both how you release it and how you reassemble it. Sort out which style your machine has before ordering clamps.

How Age and Fuel Chemistry Break Down a Hose

Fuel line stiffens as the plasticizers that keep it flexible slowly leach out of the rubber. A hardened wall no longer flexes with the chassis, so heat cycles from the Rotax and vibration over washboard trails start opening hairline splits. Dry-climate riders see the timeline compress, since low humidity pulls moisture out of the hose and hardens it from the surface inward.

Ethanol blends attack from the other side. The alcohol content draws water into the fuel and gradually degrades the inner liner, softening and delaminating it while the exterior grows brittle. A 2022 MAX 570 DPS that sits between seasons with fuel in the system gets both effects at once, and whatever the liner sheds travels straight toward the injector when the pump next spins up.

Symptoms That Justify Pulling the Panels

Do not wait for a hose to split on the trail. These are the signals:

  • Fuel odor near the seat that persists, most noticeable right after you kill the engine
  • A puddle or wet streak on the skid plate or shop floor after the machine has been parked
  • Visible cracks, crazing, or a section that feels rigid rather than rubbery under a firm pinch
  • Bogging on hard acceleration, a lean stumble, or behavior that mimics a nearly empty tank
  • Dirt caked into a dried fuel ring at either end of the hose, which indicates slow seepage

Because pressurized fuel can vaporize before it drips, a strong smell with no puddle still warrants a close look at both fittings.

Setting Up Safely and Gathering Supplies

Have all of this within reach before starting:

  • Rubber or nitrile gloves and eye protection
  • Drain pan and a sealed container rated for gasoline
  • Injection-rated hose in the original inside diameter, purchased a bit long
  • Correctly sized new clamps, plus a quick-disconnect tool if a locking coupler is present
  • Line-clamping pliers to substitute for the missing petcock
  • Razor or hose cutter, screwdriver, sockets for the seat and panels, rags

The safety piece here is not boilerplate. Gasoline vapor is denser than air, so it sinks and gathers at floor level where it can find an ignition source you forgot about. Work outdoors or with the door open all the way to the ground, kill pilot lights and heaters, unplug chargers, and keep an extinguisher nearby. Wipe spills off plastic bodywork promptly.

Getting the Old Line Out

Depressurize the circuit first. Pull the fuel pump fuse, crank the engine briefly until it stalls for lack of fuel, switch the key off, then disconnect the battery negative. Remove the seat and side bodywork to reach the tank outlet, and trace the hose all the way to the throttle body before anything comes loose.

Position the pan and cover the joint you are opening with a rag — a depressurized line still holds fuel. Slide old clamps well back before touching the fitting. Quick-connects release by squeezing their tabs squarely and pulling straight off; levering them sideways cracks brittle collars. On barbed fittings, twist the hose slightly to break the varnish bond, and if it will not move, slit it lengthwise and peel it off instead of forcing the fitting.

Note the routing carefully as it comes free. The stretched two-up MAX frame lengthens the run, and the 4x4 driveline puts front differential hardware and extra frame structure in the path, along with the DPS steering unit up front. Every clip and grommet matters when the new piece goes back in.

Installation and the Final Leak Check

Cut the new hose to exactly the length of the old one. Excess line chafes on the frame or gets caught on suspension and steering hardware; too little puts permanent tension on the fittings. Slide each end on dry until it bottoms out. Do not apply grease, oil, or silicone to any fitting — lubricant on a sealing surface is exactly how pressurized fuel finds its way out. Soften a stubborn end in hot water instead.

Clamp just behind the raised bead on each fitting and tighten evenly. A self-locking quick-connect gets pushed until it clicks and then tugged to verify the latch, with no clamp added. Secure the hose in its original clips so it stays clear of exhaust heat & the front driveline.

Reinstall the fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the ignition on and off several times without cranking so the pump loads the circuit. Inspect both joints while the area is dry, wipe them, and look again. Start the 570, check at idle, then check once more after a few minutes of warm running before the bodywork goes back on. If a fuel delivery complaint survives a clean hose replacement, remember that this machine's filter sits inside the tank with the pump rather than out on the line, and that assembly becomes your next target.

Related Shopping Categories

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.