Replacing the Fuel Supply Hose on a 2021 Sportsman Touring 570
Shop parts for a 2021 Polaris Sportsman Touring 570 ATV.
Nothing ends a ride faster than fuel that stops arriving where it needs to go. On a 2021 Sportsman Touring 570 the supply hose is a small, inexpensive component doing a serious job, and it wears on a schedule of its own regardless of how many hours are on the engine. This machine uses the electronically injected ProStar 570, so the line is pressurized whenever the key is on, fed by a pump built into the tank, with no petcock in the system to close.
Inspecting What You Have
Pull the seat and give the hose an honest evaluation before ordering anything. Squeeze it along its length and compare sections; healthy hose compresses easily and springs back, while a length that feels rigid or crunchy has already lost its plasticizers. Flex a bend and watch the outer skin for fine cracks. Look at both fittings for a dark ring of dirt held in place by dried fuel, which is the classic evidence of slow seepage.
Also pay attention to behavior. Bogging under load, a stumble when you snap the throttle, or a lean surge at steady speed all suggest restricted or leaking supply. A fuel smell around the tank that will not clear after shutdown counts as evidence even with nothing visible on the floor, because pressurized fuel escaping a pinhole tends to mist away before it drips.
What Ages a Fuel Hose
Two mechanisms run in parallel. Heat cycling next to a working engine slowly drives the plasticizers out of the rubber, leaving a stiff wall that cannot flex with the chassis. On a stretched two-up frame that works hard over uneven ground, that stiffness turns into cracks at bends and clamp locations. Riders in dry climates watch this happen faster, since low ambient humidity keeps pulling moisture from the hose wall.
Meanwhile, ethanol-blended pump gas attacks the inner liner. E10 absorbs water and gradually degrades the interior surface, and a Sportsman that sits a few months with fuel in the system can end up soft and flaking inside while looking fine outside. Whatever the liner sheds heads toward the injector, which is why hose age matters as much as external appearance.
Tools, Parts, and Ventilation
- Rubber or nitrile gloves
- Drain pan and a sealed container approved for fuel
- Replacement hose in the original inside diameter, rated for injection pressure
- New clamps sized correctly, or a clamp assortment
- Line-clamping pliers, filling in for the petcock this machine does not have
- Razor knife, rags, a small flat screwdriver, and sockets for the seat and plastics
Ventilation deserves real thought rather than a token gesture. Gasoline vapor sinks and pools at floor level where it can find an ignition source, so open the overhead door completely or work outside. Remove space heaters, keep grinders and torches out of the area, and have an extinguisher nearby before you open a fitting.
Getting the Old Hose Off
Relieve system pressure first: pull the fuel pump fuse, crank the engine until it stalls, turn the key off, and disconnect the negative battery cable. Strip off the seat and enough bodywork to reach the tank outlet and follow the hose to the throttle body.
Put the pan in place and drape a rag over the joint you are about to open, since a bled line still holds fuel. Slide worm-gear or spring clamps well back along the hose before touching the fitting. Quick-connect couplers release when you press their tabs squarely and pull straight off; prying sideways on aged plastic is how those collars break. Twist gently at each barb to break the varnish bond rather than pulling hard, and if the hose has bonded on, split it lengthwise with a razor and peel it away.
Record the routing before the old line is fully free. The Touring's longer wheelbase and On-Demand AWD front driveline mean the hose negotiates more clips and clearance points than a compact 2WD machine, and duplicating the factory path is what keeps the new hose off hot and moving parts.
Fitting the New Line and Signing Off
Cut the replacement to the exact length of the original. Slack chafes or sags toward heat; short leaves both ends under tension. Seat each end fully onto its barb, dry, until it bottoms against the shoulder. Skip grease, oil, and silicone entirely — lubricant on the sealing surface hands pressurized fuel a route past the clamp. Soften a stubborn end in hot water instead of forcing it.
Place fresh clamps just behind the raised bead on each fitting and snug them evenly without biting into the rubber. A self-locking quick-connect pushes on until it clicks and then wants no clamp at all; verify the latch with a firm tug. Return the hose to every original clip.
Reinstall the fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off several times without starting so the pump pressurizes the circuit with the joints still dry. Wipe both connections and inspect for beading. Start the engine, let it idle several minutes, and check again as it warms, turning the bars lock to lock. One closing note: the filter on this injected 570 is part of the in-tank pump assembly rather than an inline piece, so if fuel delivery still feels weak after a leak-free install, that module is where to look next.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Fuel Lines for a 2021 Polaris Sportsman Touring 570 ATV.
Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2021 Polaris Sportsman Touring 570 ATV.
Shop Petcocks for a 2021 Polaris Sportsman Touring 570 ATV.
Shop Fuel Filters for a 2021 Polaris Sportsman Touring 570 ATV.
Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2021 Polaris Sportsman Touring 570 ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.