Replacing the Fuel Line on a 2020 Polaris Sportsman 570 6x6
Shop parts for a 2020 Polaris Sportsman 570 6X6 ATV.
Fuel work rewards preparation more than skill. On a 2020 Sportsman 570 6x6 you are opening a pressurized supply hose fed by an electric pump inside the tank, because this machine runs the ProStar 567 single with electronic fuel injection. There is no petcock to close first and no way to talk the hose out of releasing the fuel it contains. Set the workspace up correctly and everything after that is straightforward wrenching on a chassis you already know.
Getting the Shop Ready and Staying Safe
Gasoline vapor is heavier than air. It does not drift out an open window; it sinks, pools across the floor, and spreads at ankle height toward whatever ignition source lives down there, which in most shops means a water heater pilot, a standing heater, a battery charger, or sparks off a grinder. Move the 6x6 outdoors if the weather allows. If it stays inside, open the overhead door completely and place a fan on the floor moving air out rather than stirring it around the space.
Stage an approved sealed container for captured fuel instead of an open can, and keep a fire extinguisher an arm's length away rather than across the building. Wear nitrile gloves from start to finish, since pump gas pulls the oils straight out of skin and its additives pass right through. These are not throwaway precautions; they are the difference between an uneventful repair and a genuine emergency.
What to Have on Hand
- Hose rated for fuel-injection pressure, matched to the original inside diameter rather than carburetor grade line
- New clamps in the style your machine uses, plus a quick-disconnect release tool if a self-locking coupler is fitted
- Line-clamping pliers for pinching off low pressure or vent hose, since no shutoff valve exists on this platform
- A wide shallow catch pan, clean rags, a razor knife, and a bright flashlight
- Sockets and drivers for the seat, bed hardware, and side plastics
How Fuel Hose Ages Out of Service
Two unrelated processes wear the rubber out. Externally, heat cycling from the engine and the constant vibration of a loaded six wheel machine drive plasticizers out of the compound until the hose turns rigid. A rigid hose cracks wherever the chassis flexes it, and those cracks deepen with each season of work. Dry climates speed the process by drawing residual moisture out of the hose wall.
Internally, ethanol-blended fuel does the damage. E10 absorbs water from the atmosphere, and fuel standing motionless in the line through a long inactive stretch degrades the liner while leaving gum and varnish at the barb joints. Since the two mechanisms are independent, a hose can look sound from the outside while its liner has already begun shedding debris toward the injector, which is why service years justify replacement on their own.
Catching a Bad Hose in Time
- Raw gasoline odor near the tank, strongest in the first minutes after shutdown while the circuit holds pressure
- A caked dust ring or dark crust at either fitting from seepage drying repeatedly
- Checking on the hose surface, a chalky gray cast, or a hard section you can feel by squeezing along its length
- A wear scar where the hose has slipped a clip and rubbed frame structure or driveline hardware
- A stain or puddle under the machine after it sits, plus bogging under load or a lean surge that mimics a low tank
Remember that pressurized fuel escaping a pinhole often atomizes and evaporates before it drips, so a dry floor is not evidence of a healthy hose on this injected machine.
Relieving Pressure and Taking the Line Out
Pull the fuel pump fuse or relay and crank the engine for a few seconds until it stalls on residual supply. That relieves the pressure. Key off, then disconnect the battery negative cable so the pump cannot energize accidentally. Remove the seat and whatever plastics or bed hardware blocks your reach to the tank flange and the hose run heading toward the throttle body. Position the pan and lay a rag over the first joint before opening it, because standing fuel remains in the hose after depressurizing.
Slide clamps well back along the hose before disturbing a fitting. On a self-locking quick-connect, compress both release tabs squarely and draw it straight off the nipple; angled prying splits collars that have grown brittle. Where varnish has bonded hose to barb, break the bond with a gentle twist, and if it holds fast, slit the hose lengthwise and peel it away rather than levering on the fitting. Photograph the routing thoroughly before the old piece comes free. The 6x6 chassis is longer than the 4x4 version and carries extra driveline hardware for the additional axle, so the hose crosses more frame structure and passes through more clips than a 4x4 or a two wheel drive layout would require.
Fitting the New Hose and Checking It
Cut the replacement to the exact length of the original. Surplus hose sags into moving parts or chafes on a frame edge until it wears through, and there is plenty of hardware nearby on this machine for it to find. Push each end fully onto its barb until it bottoms out, and install it dry. Grease, oil, and silicone spray must never touch a fuel fitting, because a lubricated sealing surface gives pressurized fuel a route to creep out from under the clamp. Dip a stubborn end in hot water for ten or fifteen seconds and it will slide on unassisted.
Set fresh clamps just inboard of the raised bead so they cannot walk off, and tighten evenly instead of crushing the hose. A quick-connect coupler takes no clamp: push until the collar clicks, then pull firmly to confirm the latch caught. Reinstall the hose in every original clip along the extended chassis.
Then reinstall the fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off several times without cranking. Each cycle pressurizes the circuit while the area is still clean and dry, the best condition for catching a weep. Inspect both joints, wipe them down, and look again. Start the engine and hold a fresh rag near each fitting for a minute or two at idle before the plastics, bed, and seat go back on.
One last structural detail: the fuel filter on this injected 6x6 is part of the in-tank pump assembly rather than an inline element on the visible hose. A new line does nothing for a restricted filter, so if delivery problems survive a clean installation, that module is where the diagnosis continues.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Fuel Lines for a 2020 Polaris Sportsman 570 6X6 ATV.
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Shop Petcocks for a 2020 Polaris Sportsman 570 6X6 ATV.
Shop Fuel Filters for a 2020 Polaris Sportsman 570 6X6 ATV.
Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2020 Polaris Sportsman 570 6X6 ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.