Fuel Line Replacement on the 2020 Honda Rincon 680 4x4

Shop parts for a 2020 Honda Rincon 680 4X4 ATV.

Know What Kind of Fuel System You Are Opening Up

Before a single clamp comes loose, get clear on one thing: the 2020 Rincon 680 is fuel injected. Honda's 675cc single on this chassis is fed by programmed fuel injection, and that means there is no petcock tucked under the tank waiting to be flipped to the off position. Instead, an electric pump sits inside the tank and pushes fuel down a pressurized hose to the throttle body. Riders who learned this job on older carbureted quads reach for a shutoff valve that simply does not exist on this machine, then get surprised when fuel keeps coming. On a carbureted quad you close the valve, crack the float bowl drain, and walk away for a minute. Here you relieve pressure electrically first, and everything downstream of that step gets easier.

The Rincon is also a 4x4, and the front differential, driveshaft, and the extra crossmembers that support them crowd the area under the tank. The hose run itself is short, but it threads past hardware a two-wheel-drive quad never carries, so plan on removing bodywork rather than trying to work by feel through a gap.

What Makes a Good Hose Go Bad

Fuel line does not wear out the way a chain or a brake pad does. It ages. The plasticizers that keep the rubber soft slowly migrate out, and a hose that once flexed easily between your fingers turns stiff, then glassy, then finally splits at whatever point sees the most movement. Heat cycling from the engine accelerates this, and so does climate: riders in dry, low-humidity country tend to see hoses harden and check on the outside years earlier than riders in humid regions.

Ethanol-blended pump gas works from the inside out at the same time. When a Rincon sits parked for a season with E10 in the system, the alcohol pulls moisture in and softens the inner liner, shedding fine material into a fuel circuit that has very little tolerance for debris. That combination of a hardening exterior and a degrading interior is why a hose on a machine of this age deserves inspection even when it looks fine from three feet away.

Warning Signs Worth Acting On

A tired line usually gives you notice. Look and smell for:

  • A damp patch or an outright puddle on the skid plate or the garage floor under the tank area
  • Raw gasoline odor around the machine, often strongest in the first minutes after shutdown while the system still holds pressure
  • Fine surface cracks, a chalky gray cast, or a section that feels hard and refuses to compress when pinched
  • Bogging under load, a stumble when you get on the throttle, or behavior that mimics running low on fuel when the tank is full
  • A dust-caked ring at a fitting, which is what dried seepage looks like after a few rides

On an injected Rincon, a leak on the pressure side can atomize and evaporate instead of dripping, so trust your nose even when the floor stays clean.

Tools, Parts, and a Real Word About Gasoline

Lay everything out before you start so you are never holding an open line with one hand and hunting for a socket with the other.

  • Nitrile or rubber gloves, since gasoline strips skin oils fast and carries additives you do not want soaking in
  • Replacement hose rated for fuel-injection pressure in the correct inside diameter, not general purpose carburetor line
  • Fresh clamps matched to the style already on the machine, plus a quick-disconnect release tool if your Rincon uses a locking coupler at the pump outlet
  • Line-clamping pliers, useful for pinching off a soft section because there is no petcock here
  • An approved fuel container, a drain pan, shop rags, a socket set, and a small flat-blade screwdriver

Work outside or with the door fully open. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air and settles at floor level, so a fan moving air low across the floor does far more good than an open window at head height. Keep a battery charger, grinder, torpedo heater, or anything else that sparks completely out of the area, and do not start this job on a hot engine.

Getting the Old Line Out

Relieve the fuel pressure first. Pull the fuel pump fuse or relay, crank the engine briefly until it stumbles and dies, shut the key off, then disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the seat and the plastic panels covering the tank so you can see both ends of the hose at once. Slide a pan underneath and drape a rag over the fitting you plan to open, because even a depressurized line holds fuel that will run out.

Push spring clips or worm-gear clamps well back along the hose before you disturb the connection. If you find a quick-connect at the tank, press the locking tabs straight in and pull the coupler off square rather than levering it sideways; those collars grow brittle with age. Old hose often bonds to a barb with varnish, so twist gently to break the seal instead of pulling hard, and if it still will not budge, slit it lengthwise with a razor blade and peel it away. Photograph the routing, every clip, and every clearance point around the front driveline before the hose is completely free.

Fitting the New Hose

Cut the new line to match the old one exactly. Extra length looks harmless on the bench and then chafes on a frame tube or drifts into the exhaust once the bodywork goes back on. Push each end fully onto its barb until it bottoms out, and install it dry. No grease, no oil, no silicone spray on the fittings, ever: a lubricated sealing surface gives pressurized fuel a path to creep past the clamp. If the hose fights you, dip the end in hot water for fifteen seconds and it will slide on.

Set new clamps just behind the raised bead on each fitting and snug them evenly rather than crushing them. A self-locking quick-connect needs no clamp at all; push until it clicks, then tug it firmly to confirm the latch has caught. Return the hose to its original guides so it sits clear of the front differential hardware and any hot surface.

Confirm It Is Dry Before You Ride

Reinstall the pump fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off four or five times without cranking. Each cycle pressurizes the circuit and gives you a chance to inspect both joints while the engine is still silent. Wipe everything with a clean rag, look for beading, then start the machine and check once more at idle. Let it run several minutes, blip the throttle, and inspect a third time before the plastics go back on.

One last thing specific to an injected Rincon: the fuel filter lives inside the tank as part of the pump module, not inline where you can reach it. A new hose does nothing for a plugged filter, so if the machine still feels starved after a clean install, the in-tank assembly is where you look next.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Fuel Lines for a 2020 Honda Rincon 680 4X4 ATV.

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Shop Fuel Filters for a 2020 Honda Rincon 680 4X4 ATV.

Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2020 Honda Rincon 680 4X4 ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.