Handling a Fuel Line Swap on Your 2020 Outlander MAX 570 XT

Shop parts for a 2020 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 XT ATV.

Nothing about this repair is beyond an intermediate home mechanic, but it does involve pressurized gasoline in an enclosed space, and that earns some deliberate setup. The 2020 Outlander MAX 570 XT runs a fuel-injected Rotax 570 with the pump inside the tank, so the line stays under pressure after the key comes out and there is no petcock to close before you begin.

Ventilation, Ignition Sources, and Personal Protection

Gasoline vapor is heavier than air. It does not rise and drift out a window; it sinks, spreads along the floor, and looks for something to ignite it. Work outside if conditions allow, and if you are in a garage, raise the overhead door completely so air moves across the ground rather than above your head.

Before the first fastener turns, shut off any appliance with a pilot light, unplug battery chargers and maintainers, and move grinding or welding out of the building. Keep a fire extinguisher within arm's reach. Wear nitrile or rubber gloves, since gasoline strips the oils out of skin quickly, and put safety glasses on for the moment a fitting releases with more fuel behind it than you expected. Let the engine cool fully, and catch every drop in an approved container instead of letting it hit the floor.

Establishing the Fuel System on This Machine

The MAX 570 XT is injected, which rules out the familiar carbureted routine of closing a valve and draining a float bowl. Fuel leaves an electric pump module inside the tank under pressure and travels down a single line to the throttle body. Your shutoff comes from line-clamping pliers, and pressure has to be relieved on purpose.

Hose selection matters as a result. Injection-rated line is required, because low-pressure carburetor hose swells and eventually weeps under pump pressure. Check the tank outlet as well — injected Outlanders often use a self-locking quick-connect coupler there, which releases differently from a barb and needs no clamp at reassembly.

How Rubber Line Goes Bad

The plasticizers that keep new hose supple gradually migrate out of the rubber, and once the wall hardens it no longer absorbs the movement it is subjected to. Heat cycling from the Rotax plus frame flex on rough ground then works fine cracks into the surface, usually starting at a tight bend. Riders in dry, low-humidity areas see this happen sooner, since arid air draws moisture out of the hose and hardens it from the outside inward.

Ethanol in pump gas provides the second failure path, pulling water into the fuel and slowly breaking down the inner liner. The result is a hose that can be brittle outside and soft inside at the same time. Long idle stretches with fuel standing in the line make it worse, and whatever the liner sheds travels toward the injector when the pump next builds pressure.

Symptoms You Should Not Ignore

  • Fuel odor lingering around the seat and tank area, strongest in the minutes after shutdown
  • A puddle or damp patch on the skid plate or floor after the machine has been parked
  • Visible cracks, crazing, or a chalky surface on the hose
  • A stiff section that refuses to compress under a firm pinch
  • Bogging under throttle, lean running, or an engine behaving as though fuel is low when it is not
  • Grit stuck in a dried fuel stain at a fitting, a sign of ongoing seepage

Because the circuit is pressurized, a small leak may vaporize before producing a drip. An unexplained smell counts as evidence.

Removal and the Realities of a 4x4 MAX Frame

Relieve pressure first: pull the pump fuse, crank the engine briefly until it stalls, key off, then disconnect the battery negative. Take the seat off and remove enough bodywork to expose the tank outlet, and follow the hose all the way to the throttle body before disturbing it.

Slide a drain pan underneath, cover the joint with a rag, and open the fitting expecting residual fuel. Push old clamps well back along the hose first. A quick-connect releases when its tabs are squeezed squarely and it is pulled straight off; prying at an angle snaps a brittle collar. On a barb, twist the hose gently to break the varnish bond, and if it will not release, slit it lengthwise and peel it off rather than forcing the fitting.

The routing itself deserves attention. This is a two-up MAX with a longer frame than the standard Outlander, so the run is longer and there are more retaining clips. Being 4x4, it also has front differential hardware and extra frame crossmembers for the line to clear, and the XT package adds winch mounting and a reinforced bumper up front. Photograph every clip before the old hose is fully out.

Reassembly, Clamping, and the Final Check

Cut the new hose to exactly the length of what you removed. Extra line chafes or catches on hardware; a short piece pulls at both fittings each time the chassis works. Push each end dry onto its barb until it bottoms out. No grease, no oil, no silicone anywhere near these connections — lubricant on a sealing surface is how pressurized fuel escapes past a hose that otherwise looks properly installed. Hot water is the correct way to soften a stiff end.

Position new clamps just behind the raised bead at each fitting and snug them evenly, tight enough to hold pressure without biting into the wall. Where a self-locking quick-connect is used, push until you hear it click and then tug hard to verify the latch caught; no clamp belongs there. Route the hose back through the original clips so it stays clear of exhaust heat & the front driveline.

Test before you ride. Reinstall the pump fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off five or six times without cranking so the pump pressurizes the circuit while the area is dry. Inspect both joints closely, wipe them, and inspect again. Start the engine, check at idle, then check once more after a few minutes of warm running. Only when everything stays dry does the bodywork go back on.

One closing note on this platform: the filter is built into the in-tank pump assembly rather than sitting inline where you can service it. A new hose stops leaks but cannot clear a restriction, so if the machine still stumbles afterward, that assembly is the next thing to examine.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Fuel Lines for a 2020 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 XT ATV.

Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2020 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 XT ATV.

Shop Petcocks for a 2020 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 XT ATV.

Shop Fuel Filters for a 2020 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 XT ATV.

Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2020 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 XT ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.