Swapping the Fuel Line on a 2020 Outlander MAX 570 DPS

Shop parts for a 2020 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 DPS ATV.

Fuel hose is one of the few components on a 2020 Outlander MAX 570 DPS that ages on a calendar rather than an hour meter. A machine with barely any miles can carry line that is well past its useful life, simply because the rubber has been sitting in contact with fuel and air the whole time. Since the 570 Rotax in this MAX is fuel-injected and fed by an in-tank pump, there is no shutoff valve to close before you cut into that circuit, and the replacement job has to be approached accordingly.

The Chemistry Behind a Failing Line

New fuel hose is soft because it is loaded with plasticizers that keep the polymer chains sliding past one another. Those compounds slowly leach out, and the wall stiffens until it no longer absorbs movement. Every warm-up cycle from the Rotax and every hard landing that twists the frame then works a microscopic crack a fraction wider. In dry climates the process runs noticeably quicker, because low ambient humidity accelerates the hardening from the outer surface inward.

Ethanol-blended pump gas comes at the hose from the inside. Alcohol attracts moisture and slowly breaks down the inner liner, which means a line can be brittle outside and gummy inside at the same time. On a MAX 570 DPS that goes weeks or months between rides, that degraded material has nowhere to go but downstream toward the injector once flow resumes.

Confirming You Are Working on a Pressurized System

This distinction drives everything else, so settle it before you touch a tool. The 2020 Outlander MAX 570 DPS is fuel-injected: no petcock under the tank, no float bowl to drain, and no gravity feed to interrupt. Instead a pump module inside the tank pushes fuel through the line at pressure, and that pressure remains bottled up after shutdown.

Practically, that means you supply the shutoff yourself with line-clamping pliers, you relieve pressure deliberately before opening a joint, and you may find a self-locking quick-connect coupler at the tank outlet rather than a plain barb and clamp. It also means the hose itself needs a pressure rating — ordinary low-pressure carburetor line will balloon and eventually weep on an injected machine.

Warning Signs Worth Acting On

A line rarely fails all at once. Look for the early evidence:

  • Fuel smell hanging around the seat and tank area, sharpest just after you shut the engine down
  • A small puddle or damp patch under the machine after it has been parked for a while
  • Visible cracking, crazing, or a hardened section that does not deform when squeezed
  • An engine that bogs on hard acceleration, surges at steady throttle, or acts starved even with plenty in the tank
  • Weeping at either fitting, often visible as dirt stuck in a dried fuel ring

Catching two or more of these early keeps a fifteen dollar hose from turning into a recovery ride out of the backcountry.

Tools, Supplies, and a Real Word on Safety

Collect the following before the first fastener turns:

  • Rubber or nitrile gloves and eye protection
  • Drain pan and a sealed, fuel-approved container
  • Injection-rated replacement hose in the original inside diameter, cut a little long so you can trim to match
  • New clamps in the correct size, plus a quick-disconnect tool if the tank outlet uses a locking coupler
  • Line-clamping pliers to pinch off flow, since this model has no petcock
  • Sockets and a screwdriver for seat and panel hardware, a hose cutter, and a pile of rags

Handle the gasoline itself with respect. Work outside or with the garage fully open at ground level, because fuel vapor sinks and pools low rather than drifting out a high window. No smoking, no grinding, no space heaters, no battery chargers running nearby. Keep a fire extinguisher within arm's reach and get spilled fuel off painted plastic quickly.

Removing the Old Hose Without Making a Mess

Relieve the pressure first: pull the fuel pump fuse, crank the starter briefly until the engine dies, turn the key off, then disconnect the battery negative terminal. Take the seat off and remove enough side bodywork to see the tank outlet and the hose route toward the throttle body.

Slide your pan into position and lay a rag over the joint you plan to open. Push existing clamps well back down the hose before disturbing the fitting. If a quick-connect is present, compress its tabs evenly and pull straight off the nipple — prying at an angle snaps aged plastic collars. Barbed fittings usually need a gentle twist to break the varnish seal; when the hose refuses to budge, slice it lengthwise with a razor and peel it off rather than yanking on the fitting.

As it comes out, note how the line threads past the front differential and through the frame clearance points that the 4x4 driveline creates. The stretched MAX chassis adds length to the run as well, so photographs of every clip and grommet are worth the thirty seconds they take.

Fitting the New Line and Verifying the Seal

Trim the replacement to the exact length of the piece you removed. Extra hose chafes against frame tubes or interferes with steering components; a short piece tugs on both fittings constantly. Slide each end onto its barb dry until it bottoms out fully — never coat a fitting with grease, oil, or silicone, since any lubricant on the sealing surface gives pressurized fuel a route past the hose wall. Warm water softens a stubborn end enough to seat by hand.

Position each clamp just behind the fitting's raised bead and tighten evenly. A quick-connect coupler needs no clamp at all; push it on until it clicks and then pull firmly to prove the lock engaged. Return the hose to its original clips so it stays away from exhaust heat and the front driveline.

To test, reinstall the fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the ignition on and off several times without cranking. Each cycle pressurizes the line and shows you a leak while the area is still dry. Inspect and wipe both connections, start the engine, and check again at idle and after a few minutes of running. If everything stays dry, reinstall the panels and seat. Should the machine still hesitate afterward, remember the filter on this injected Outlander sits inside the tank with the pump rather than inline, so a clogged element remains a separate item to address.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Fuel Lines for a 2020 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 DPS ATV.

Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2020 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 DPS ATV.

Shop Petcocks for a 2020 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 DPS ATV.

Shop Fuel Filters for a 2020 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 DPS ATV.

Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2020 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 DPS ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.