Changing the Fuel Line on a 2019 Sportsman Touring 570 EPS
Shop parts for a 2019 Polaris Sportsman Touring 570 EPS ATV.
Two-up trail machines earn their hours, and the 2019 Sportsman Touring 570 EPS accumulates plenty of heat cycles and chassis flex over a riding season. Both of those age the fuel hose faster than most owners assume. This model runs the ProStar 570 single with electronic fuel injection, so the supply line is pressurized by a pump mounted inside the tank and no petcock exists anywhere in the system to shut off flow.
Understanding How the Hose Wears Out
The suppleness of fuel hose comes from plasticizers blended into the rubber. Heat cycling next to the engine slowly bakes them out, and what began as soft, pliable line becomes stiff and glassy. Once the wall can no longer flex with the frame, the vibration of a long Touring chassis over rough ground starts opening hairline splits, usually at a bend or right where a clamp has compressed the same band of material for years.
Ethanol-blended gasoline works the interior. E10 draws moisture out of the air and gradually degrades the hose's inner liner, so a machine that sits for a few idle months with fuel in it can be soft and shedding on the inside while the exterior still looks fine. Dry-climate machines fare worse externally, because low humidity keeps pulling moisture from the rubber year round.
Symptoms That Point at the Line
- Fuel pooled or smeared under the machine after it has been sitting
- A gasoline smell near the tank that persists well after shutdown
- Surface cracking, chalky texture, or a hardened stretch you feel while pinching the hose
- Dark, dust-packed rings at a fitting, which are dried fuel from a slow weep
- An engine that bogs under load, hesitates on hard throttle, or acts nearly out of gas
Injected systems can hide their leaks. Fuel escaping a pinhole under pressure often mists and evaporates before it reaches the ground, so a strong smell with nothing visible still warrants a close look at every inch of hose.
What to Have Ready
- Rubber or nitrile gloves
- Drain pan and a sealed, fuel-rated container
- Replacement hose in the correct inside diameter, rated for injection pressure rather than low-pressure carburetor service
- New clamps in the right size, or an assortment
- Line-clamping pliers, taking the place of the petcock this model does not have
- Razor knife, shop rags, a small flat screwdriver, and sockets for the seat and side plastics
Set up where air actually moves. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air and collects near the floor, so an open overhead door or working outdoors accomplishes what a high window cannot. Clear out heaters with standing flames, hold off on any grinding or welding, and keep an extinguisher within reach before you open a fitting.
Pulling the Old Line
Relieve the pressure first. Pull the fuel pump fuse, crank the starter until the engine quits, switch the key off, then disconnect the negative battery cable so the pump cannot run while you work. Remove the seat and whatever bodywork blocks the tank outlet and the hose run to the throttle body.
Slide the pan into place and drape a rag over the fitting you are opening, since a depressurized line still holds fuel. Push worm-gear or spring clamps well back along the hose before you move the hose itself. If a locking quick-connect is fitted at the tank, press the release tabs squarely and pull straight off; prying at an angle cracks the aged plastic collar. Twist gently at each barb to break the varnish bond rather than yanking, and if the hose has fused on, slit it lengthwise and peel it away.
Trace the routing before the old piece comes fully out. With its stretched wheelbase and On-Demand AWD front driveline, this chassis sends the hose past more clips and clearance points than a compact 2WD quad. Photographs of each retention point make reassembly straightforward.
Installation and the Final Leak Check
Cut the replacement to the original length exactly. Long hose chafes on frame tubes or sags toward the exhaust; short hose keeps both fittings under tension and eventually works loose. Push each end on dry until it bottoms against the fitting shoulder. Keep grease, oil, and silicone away from the fittings entirely, because a lubricated sealing surface gives pressurized fuel a direct route past the clamp. Dip a stiff end in hot water for a few seconds if it resists.
Position fresh clamps just behind the raised bead on each fitting and tighten evenly, snug without biting into the rubber. Where a self-locking quick-connect is used, push until it clicks and confirm with a firm tug; that fitting seals itself and takes no clamp. Return the hose to every original clip.
Reinstall the fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off five or six times without cranking. Each cycle primes the pump and pressurizes the line, letting you check dry joints under working conditions. Wipe both connections and look for beading. Start the engine, idle it several minutes, inspect again as heat builds, and turn the bars fully both directions to load the routing. If everything is dry but delivery still feels weak, remember the filter on this injected 570 is integrated into the in-tank pump assembly rather than sitting inline, and that is where to look next.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Fuel Lines for a 2019 Polaris Sportsman Touring 570 EPS ATV.
Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2019 Polaris Sportsman Touring 570 EPS ATV.
Shop Petcocks for a 2019 Polaris Sportsman Touring 570 EPS ATV.
Shop Fuel Filters for a 2019 Polaris Sportsman Touring 570 EPS ATV.
Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2019 Polaris Sportsman Touring 570 EPS ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.