Renewing the Fuel Line on a 2019 Sportsman Big Boss 6x6 570 EPS
Shop parts for a 2019 Polaris Sportsman Big Boss 6x6 570 EPS ATV.
What Ages a Fuel Hose
Rubber fuel line is a consumable with a real service life, and the 2019 Sportsman Big Boss 6x6 570 EPS has enough seasons behind it now for that clock to matter. The plasticizers that keep new hose soft and bendable slowly migrate out of the wall, leaving material that is stiff, glassy, and quick to crack under movement. Every run of the ProStar single heat cycles the line, and a long six-wheel frame flexes noticeably when a loaded dump box crosses rough ground, so brittle rubber develops fissures at bends and right at the edges of fittings.
Climate shifts the timeline. Dry, low-humidity air draws moisture out of the hose and hardens it years earlier than the same part would age in damp conditions. Ethanol-blended pump gas works the opposite surface, absorbing water and gradually degrading the inner liner. A machine that sits idle for months with E10 in the system can gum up internally and shed softened liner material toward the injector while the exterior of the hose looks entirely acceptable.
Injected, Not Carbureted: What Changes
Confirm the layout before touching a tool. This model is fuel injected, so there is no petcock under the tank to shut off flow, no gravity feed, and no float bowl drain. A pump inside the tank pressurizes fuel and pushes it through the line to the throttle body, and that pressure lingers in the circuit after shutdown. Where a carbureted utility quad lets you close a valve and start pulling clamps, this machine requires a deliberate bleed first.
The rest of the chassis matters for access. Three axles mean a longer frame than a standard four-wheel Sportsman, and the hose run passes additional crossmembers and retaining clips on its way aft. The on-demand all-wheel-drive front end creates clearance points that a simpler two-wheel-drive quad never presents.
Symptoms Worth Investigating
- Fuel pooling on the skid plate or dripping onto the floor after the machine has been shut down and parked
- A persistent gasoline odor near the tank, strongest immediately after shutdown while the circuit still holds pressure
- Fine surface cracking, a chalky white bloom, or a hardened section that will not flex when pinched
- The engine bogging under load, hesitating when you roll into the throttle, or acting starved at higher rpm
- A dust-caked ring at a fitting, which is dried residue from fuel that has been seeping slowly
Because the circuit is pressurized, a small leak may mist and evaporate rather than leave a puddle, so trust your nose as much as your eyes. On a carbureted machine the same defect would almost always drip visibly under the float bowl.
Tools, Parts, and Fuel Safety
Gasoline vapor is heavier than air. It sinks, spreads across the floor, and gathers around whatever sits low in the shop, which typically means extension cords, chargers, and heaters. Roll the Big Boss outdoors or open the building fully rather than counting on a cracked window, keep every ignition source well away, and wear gloves since gasoline strips the oils out of skin on contact.
- Replacement hose rated for injection pressure in the factory inside diameter, not general-purpose carburetor line
- New clamps matched to the style already on the machine, plus a quick-disconnect release tool if a locking coupler is fitted at the pump flange
- Line-clamping pliers to pinch off low-pressure or vent sections, filling the role a petcock would play
- An approved container for captured fuel and a shallow catch pan
- Nitrile gloves, plenty of clean rags, a small flat-blade screwdriver, and sockets for the seat, cargo box, and side panels
Depressurizing and Removing the Old Hose
Pull the fuel pump fuse or relay, crank the engine until it stumbles and dies, shut the key off, and disconnect the battery negative cable. That sequence takes the pressure out of the circuit and keeps the pump from priming while a fitting sits open. Now lift the seat and remove the plastics blocking access to the tank outlet and the hose run.
Position the pan beneath the joint you intend to open and lay a rag across it, since residual fuel remains in the line even after a proper bleed. Slide worm-gear or spring clamps well down the hose before disturbing the connection. On a quick-connect, compress both tabs evenly and pull straight off without prying sideways, because aged plastic collars split when levered. If the hose has bonded to a barb with varnish, twist it gently to break the seal, or slit it lengthwise with a razor and peel it away rather than risking damage to the fitting. Record the routing and every clip before the line is completely free.
Installation and the Pressure Check That Finishes the Job
Cut the new hose to the original length with square ends. Too much length chafes against the frame or drifts toward hot exhaust; too little leaves both fittings carrying tension they were never meant to hold. Push each end fully onto its barb dry, with nothing on the sealing surface. Grease, oil, and silicone all give pressurized fuel a slippery path out from under the clamp, so keep every lubricant away from the fittings. Dip a stubborn end briefly in hot water to soften it instead.
Set new clamps just behind the raised bead on each fitting and tighten them evenly rather than crushing the hose. A self-locking quick-connect requires no clamp at all — push until the collar clicks and tug to confirm it latched. Reseat the hose in each original retainer so it stays clear of the driveline and exhaust heat.
Reinstall the fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off several times without cranking. Each cycle primes the pump and pressurizes the line, letting you inspect both joints while the area around them is still dry. Wipe them down, look closely, then start the engine and check once more at idle before the plastics and seat go back on. Keep one detail in mind going forward: the fuel filter on this Big Boss lives inside the tank with the pump rather than sitting inline on the visible hose the way a carbureted machine arranges it, so a new line will not resolve a restricted filter.
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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.