How to Renew the Fuel Line on a 2019 Sportsman 570 6x6

Shop parts for a 2019 Polaris Sportsman 570 6X6 ATV.

Before loosening anything on a 2019 Sportsman 570 6x6, it helps to picture the fuel path end to end. This machine uses the ProStar 567 single with electronic fuel injection, which means no petcock, no gravity feed, and no float bowl to drain. An electric pump submerged in the tank pushes fuel forward under real pressure whenever the key is on, and the circuit stays pressurized after shutdown. Everything about the procedure follows from those facts.

The Layout of the Fuel Circuit

The pump module sits inside the tank with the filter element built into the same assembly, which is why there is nothing inline on the exposed hose to unscrew and swap. Pressurized fuel leaves the pump outlet flange, runs through the supply hose, and arrives at the throttle body where the injector meters it. Terminations vary between worm gear or spring clamps and a self-locking quick-connect coupler that snaps onto a nipple and needs no clamp at all, so identify what your machine has before ordering hardware.

Routing on a 6x6 is the other thing to appreciate. This chassis is longer than the 4x4 version and carries extra driveline hardware for the additional rear axle, so the hose crosses more frame structure and passes through more retaining clips than a 4x4 would use, let alone a two wheel drive quad. Each of those clips exists to hold the hose clear of heat and rotating components.

Why the Rubber Gives Out

Degradation runs from both surfaces inward and outward at once. On the outside, plasticizers that keep the compound flexible bleed away under engine heat and the constant vibration a loaded six wheeler generates. The hose hardens, and a hardened hose cracks wherever the chassis flexes it. Arid climates worsen this, since low humidity draws moisture out of the hose wall and stiffens it faster than hours alone suggest.

On the inside, ethanol-blended fuel is the problem. E10 absorbs atmospheric water, and fuel that sits motionless through a long idle stretch attacks the liner while leaving gum and varnish deposits at the barbs. Because these are separate mechanisms, a hose can look and feel presentable while its liner is already flaking material toward the injector.

Symptoms to Take Seriously

  • Fuel smell around the tank, most pronounced immediately after shutdown while pressure is still trapped in the line
  • A dried residue ring caked with dust at either fitting
  • Surface cracks, a chalky finish, or a stiff glassy section detectable by pinching along the hose
  • A damp patch, stain, or genuine puddle beneath the machine after it has been parked
  • Bogging under load, stumbling on hard throttle, or a lean condition that feels like an almost empty tank

Since a pressure side pinhole often atomizes fuel into vapor that evaporates before dripping, the absence of a puddle does not clear the hose here.

Tools, Supplies, and Handling Fuel Safely

  • Fuel-injection rated hose in the original inside diameter, never carburetor grade line
  • New clamps of the matching style, plus a quick-disconnect release tool if locking couplers are present
  • Line-clamping pliers for low pressure or vent hose, since there is no valve to close
  • An approved sealed container, a shallow drain pan, rags, nitrile gloves, a razor knife, and a flashlight
  • Sockets and drivers for the seat, bed hardware, and side plastics

Gasoline vapor is heavier than air. It drops to the floor and travels at that level toward pilot lights, shop heaters, and power tools instead of dispersing upward. Work outside when possible, or open the overhead door completely and set a fan low pushing air out. Keep an extinguisher within arm's reach and wear gloves for the duration, because fuel strips the oils out of skin on contact.

Bleeding the Circuit and Pulling the Hose

Remove the fuel pump fuse or relay and crank the engine until it starves and quits, which vents the pressure. Turn the key off and disconnect the battery negative cable. Take the seat off and remove whatever plastics or bed hardware blocks access to the tank flange and the hose run heading to the throttle body. Slide the pan into place and drape a rag over the first joint before you open it, because standing fuel stays in the hose whatever the pressure state.

Push clamps well back along the hose before disturbing the fitting. On a quick-connect, depress both tabs evenly and pull straight off the nipple; never pry sideways on an aged plastic collar. When varnish has glued hose to barb, a gentle quarter turn twist normally frees it, and if it does not, slit the hose lengthwise with the razor and peel it off in halves rather than distorting the fitting. Photograph every clip and frame crossing before the old hose is completely clear, because on the long 6x6 chassis there are more of them than you will remember.

Installation and Leak Verification

Cut the replacement to match the original length; surplus hose sags into moving parts or rubs a frame edge until it wears through. Seat each end fully on its barb, dry. Grease, oil, and silicone spray stay off fuel fittings entirely, because anything slippery on the sealing surface hands pressurized fuel a path out from beneath the clamp. Soften a tight end in hot water for ten seconds instead of lubricating it.

Position new clamps just inboard of the raised bead so they cannot migrate, and tighten evenly rather than hard. A quick-connect coupler needs no clamp: push until it clicks, then pull firmly to confirm engagement. Feed the hose back through each original clip along the chassis. Then reinstall the fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off five times without cranking so the pump pressurizes the line while the area is still dry. Inspect both joints, wipe them, and inspect again. Start the engine and hold a fresh rag near each fitting for a minute or two at idle before the plastics, bed, and seat are refitted.

Finally, keep the filter location in mind. On this injected 6x6 it lives inside the tank as part of the pump assembly rather than as a serviceable inline element, so a new hose cannot fix a restricted filter. If starvation symptoms outlive a clean installation, that module is the next thing to examine.

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.