Fuel Line Replacement on the 2019 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 DPS

Shop parts for a 2019 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 DPS ATV.

Most owners discover a tired fuel line the hard way — a whiff of gasoline in the garage, or a stumble halfway up a hill that was never there before. The 2019 Outlander MAX 570 DPS runs a fuel-injected Rotax 570 with an in-tank pump module, so the hose you are chasing is part of a pressurized circuit rather than a simple gravity feed. There is no petcock to twist closed on this machine, and that reality shapes every step of the job.

Symptoms That Point at the Hose

Because a pressurized line can atomize fuel instead of dripping it, the classic puddle is only one of several tells. Run through this list before you commit to buying parts:

  • A wet spot or thin puddle on the skid plate or floor after the MAX has sat overnight
  • Gasoline odor that lingers around the seat area, usually strongest in the minutes right after shutdown while residual pressure is still trapped in the circuit
  • Fine surface cracking, a chalky bloom, or a section that feels hard and glassy when you pinch it between finger and thumb
  • Bogging under load, a lean stumble as the throttle opens, or a machine that behaves like the tank is low when it is not
  • A dust-caked ring around a fitting, which is the signature of fuel seeping, evaporating, and leaving grit behind

Two of those symptoms together is enough. On a machine that has been in service since 2019, hose age alone justifies replacement even when the outside still looks presentable.

What Actually Kills a Fuel Hose

Rubber fuel line does not wear out mechanically so much as it dries out chemically. The plasticizers that keep the wall soft slowly migrate out, and once flexibility is gone, ordinary heat cycling from the Rotax combined with chassis flex on rutted trails opens hairline splits. Riders in arid, high-desert country watch this happen faster than anyone, since low humidity draws moisture out of the hose wall and hardens it from the outside inward.

Ethanol works the opposite direction. Pump gas blended with alcohol attracts water and gradually attacks the inner liner, so a line can be simultaneously brittle on the surface and softening on the inside. A MAX 570 DPS that spends long stretches parked with fuel in the system is the worst case — the hose degrades while nothing flushes through it, and loosened material heads straight for the injector.

Gathering Parts and Setting Up the Space

Lay everything out before a single clamp comes loose. You do not want to be hunting a screwdriver with an open fuel line in your hand.

  • Nitrile or rubber gloves — gasoline pulls the oils straight out of bare skin
  • An approved metal or plastic container plus a shallow drain pan for captured fuel
  • Replacement hose rated for injection pressure in the exact inside diameter the machine came with, not general purpose carburetor line
  • Fresh clamps matched to whatever style you find, and a quick-disconnect release tool if a locking coupler sits at the tank outlet
  • Line-clamping pliers, which stand in for the petcock this model does not have
  • Sharp razor or hose cutter, shop rags, a flat-blade screwdriver, and sockets for the seat and side panel hardware

Do this work outdoors or with the door rolled fully open. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air and settles at floor level, so ventilation low in the room matters far more than a cracked window overhead. Keep heaters, grinders, chargers, and anything else that sparks well clear of the area.

Depressurizing and Pulling the Old Line

Start by killing pressure in the circuit. Pull the fuel pump fuse, crank the engine for a couple of seconds until it stalls out, switch the key off, then disconnect the battery negative cable. Skipping this on an injected Outlander is how people end up wearing their fuel.

Remove the seat and the side panels that shroud the tank, then trace the hose from the pump module to the throttle body so you know its full path before anything moves. Slide the drain pan underneath and drape a rag over the first fitting you break loose, because even a depressurized line holds a slug of fuel that will run out.

Worm-gear or spring clamps get slid well back along the hose before you twist anything. A quick-connect coupler releases by squeezing its tabs squarely and pulling straight off — never lever it sideways, as those collars grow brittle and crack. If varnish has glued the hose to a barb, twist gently to break the bond, or slit the old line lengthwise and peel it away rather than risk damaging the fitting itself.

Routing the Replacement Through a MAX Chassis

The MAX platform stretches the wheelbase to make room for the second seat, so the hose run and the clips holding it are not identical to a single-seat Outlander. Add the 4x4 driveline and there is front differential hardware and extra frame structure to clear that a two-wheel-drive quad simply does not have. Photograph each clip and pass-through before the old hose is completely free.

Cut the new line to match the original length exactly. Too long and it chafes on the frame or fouls the power steering hardware behind the front rack; too short and it pulls at the fittings every time the chassis works. Push each end fully onto its barb until it bottoms out, and do it dry — grease, oil, and silicone all give pressurized fuel a path to creep past the seal. A quick dip of the hose end in hot water softens it enough to slide on without help.

Set new clamps just behind the raised bead on each fitting and snug them evenly, firm enough to seal but not so tight they bite into the wall. Where a self-locking quick-connect is used, push until it clicks and then tug hard to confirm the latch caught & leave it clampless, exactly as it came.

Pressure Testing Before the First Ride

Reinstall the pump fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off four or five times without starting. Each cycle spins the pump and loads the circuit, letting you inspect both joints while the surrounding area is still bone dry. Wipe everything with a clean rag, then fire the 570 and check again at idle, and once more after a few minutes of warm running. Only then does the bodywork go back on.

One last platform note: the filter on this fuel-injected Outlander lives inside the tank as part of the pump assembly, not inline where you can see it. Fresh hose will not fix a plugged filter, so if the machine still stumbles or feels starved after a clean install, the in-tank module is where to look next.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Fuel Lines for a 2019 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 DPS ATV.

Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2019 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 DPS ATV.

Shop Petcocks for a 2019 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 DPS ATV.

Shop Fuel Filters for a 2019 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 DPS ATV.

Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2019 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 DPS ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.