How to Change the Fuel Line on a 2018 Big Boss 6x6 570 EPS
Shop parts for a 2018 Polaris Sportsman Big Boss 6x6 570 EPS ATV.
Signs the Hose Is Ready for Replacement
A tired fuel line on a 2018 Sportsman Big Boss 6x6 570 EPS gives you warning if you know what to look for. Fuel collecting on the skid plate or dripping onto the shop floor after the machine has been parked is the most obvious sign. A gasoline smell that hangs around the tank area, sharpest in the minutes right after shutdown while residual pressure is still trapped, is nearly as telling. Inspect the hose itself for fine crazing, a chalky surface, or a length that has hardened and refuses to flex when pinched. Watch how the engine behaves too, since bogging under a loaded box, hesitation on hard throttle, or a lean stumble at higher rpm can all trace back to compromised supply. A grimy ring of dust caked around a fitting is dried evidence of a slow weep.
Keep in mind that this is an injected machine, so a small pressure-side leak may atomize and evaporate rather than drip. Odor without a puddle still means a real leak. A carbureted quad would typically leave an unmistakable pool beneath the float bowl instead.
The Fuel System You Are Working On
The 570 EPS is fuel injected. There is no petcock beneath the tank, no gravity feed, and no float bowl drain to crack open. A pump mounted inside the tank pressurizes fuel and sends it through the line to the throttle body, and that pressure remains in the circuit for a while after the key comes off. That is why the job opens with a bleed procedure rather than the simple valve twist an older carbureted utility quad would allow.
The chassis shapes access as well. Six wheels means three axles and a notably longer frame, so the fuel line passes more crossmembers and retaining clips than it would on a standard four-wheel Sportsman. The on-demand all-wheel-drive front end adds clearance points a two-wheel-drive quad simply does not have.
Why Rubber Fails Over Time
New fuel hose bends easily because plasticizers are mixed into the rubber, and those additives gradually leave the wall. The remaining material is harder and much more brittle, and it does not appreciate being moved. The ProStar single heat cycles the hose every time it runs, the long six-wheel frame twists under a load, and hardened rubber under that combination develops hairline splits that grow into real cracks.
Dry, low-humidity air accelerates the hardening by drawing moisture out of the hose wall, which is why owners in arid regions replace fuel line noticeably sooner. Ethanol-blended pump gas comes at the problem from inside, pulling water into the system and slowly degrading the inner liner. That combination is how a hose can look presentable outside while shedding softened material toward the injector.
Preparation, Tools, and Handling Gasoline
Gasoline vapor is heavier than air, so it sinks and pools at floor level right where extension cords, chargers, and shop heaters usually sit. Move the Big Boss outdoors or open the building end to end, keep every flame and spark source well away, and wear gloves because gasoline degreases skin instantly and carries whatever it dissolves through it.
- Hose rated for fuel-injection pressure and matched to the factory inside diameter, not low-pressure carburetor line
- Fresh clamps in the correct style, plus a quick-disconnect release tool if a locking coupler is used at the tank flange
- Line-clamping pliers to pinch off low-pressure or vent sections, standing in for the petcock this model does not have
- An approved fuel container and a shallow drain pan
- Nitrile or rubber gloves, a supply of clean rags, a small flat-blade screwdriver, and sockets for the seat, cargo box, and body panels
Bleeding the System and Pulling the Line
Start by removing the fuel pump fuse or relay. Crank the engine until it sputters and dies, turn the key off, then disconnect the battery negative terminal. With the circuit bled and the pump unable to prime, lift the seat and remove the plastics covering the tank outlet and the hose run heading toward the engine.
Set the pan under the first fitting you plan to open and lay a rag across it, because residual fuel remains in the line regardless of pressure. Slide clamps well back before you touch a joint. For a quick-connect coupler, compress the tabs evenly and pull straight back — prying sideways cracks aged plastic collars. Where old hose has varnished itself to a barb, break the bond with a gentle twist, or slice it lengthwise with a razor and peel it off instead of risking the fitting.
Sketch or photograph the routing as the hose comes out. Reproducing the factory path through a long 6x6 frame is far easier with a reference than from memory, particularly where the line passes front driveline components.
Fitting the Replacement and Verifying No Leaks
Match the new hose to the original length and cut it square. Extra length invites chafing on the frame or contact with hot exhaust, while a short piece leaves both fittings under constant strain. Press each end fully onto its barb dry. No grease, no oil, no silicone belongs on a fuel fitting, since lubricant on the sealing surface gives pressurized fuel a route out from beneath the clamp. Hot water briefly softens a stiff end if you need help seating it.
Place new clamps just inboard of the raised bead on each fitting and tighten them uniformly without biting deep into the rubber. A self-locking quick-connect needs no clamp whatsoever: push until the collar audibly clicks, then pull firmly to confirm it captured. Return the line to all of its original clips so it stays away from moving driveline parts and hot surfaces.
Reinstall the pump fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off several times without starting the engine. Each cycle runs the pump and pressurizes the circuit, giving you a leak check while the surrounding area is still clean and dry. Wipe both joints with a fresh rag and inspect closely, then fire the engine and check again at idle before reassembling the bodywork. Worth remembering afterward: on this injected Big Boss the filter is inside the tank as part of the pump module rather than inline where a carbureted machine keeps a serviceable filter. A perfect new hose will not cure a restricted in-tank filter, so that assembly is the next thing to check if the engine still runs starved.
Related Shopping Categories
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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.