Fuel Hose Renewal on the 2018 Polaris Sportsman 570
Shop parts for a 2018 Polaris Sportsman 570 ATV.
Plenty of riders approach a fuel line replacement with habits carried over from older quads, and on a 2018 Sportsman 570 most of those habits do not apply. There is no petcock to reach under the tank and close. Fuel does not trickle downhill to a carburetor. This machine uses the ProStar 567 single with electronic fuel injection, and the hose you are replacing carries pressurized fuel pushed forward by an electric pump submerged in the tank. Knowing the layout before you start is what makes the job predictable.
How Fuel Moves on This Machine
The pump module sits inside the tank and includes the filter element as part of the same unit, which is why there is nothing inline on the visible hose to service. From the pump outlet flange, the supply hose carries pressurized fuel forward to the throttle body, where the injector meters it. The pump energizes whenever the key goes on, so the circuit holds pressure well after the engine stops.
Terminations vary. You may find conventional worm gear or spring clamps at both ends, or a self-locking quick-connect coupler that snaps onto a nipple and requires no clamp whatsoever. Identify what your 570 actually has before buying hardware, because a quick-connect needs a release tool and a clamped joint needs new clamps. Routing is worth noting too: as a 4x4 platform, the front differential and driveline hardware push the hose along a longer path with more clearance points and retaining clips than a two wheel drive chassis would need.
The Reasons Hose Goes Bad
Two independent processes wear the rubber out. From the outside, heat cycling from the single and constant vibration bleed plasticizers out of the compound until it hardens. A hard hose cannot flex with the frame, so fine cracks open and creep inward over successive seasons. Dry climates make it worse by drawing residual moisture out of the hose wall, which is why arid region machines often need hose earlier than their hours would suggest.
From the inside, ethanol-blended pump gas is the aggressor. E10 pulls water out of the air, and fuel standing motionless through an off season degrades the liner while laying gum and varnish down at the barbs. Because these mechanisms are separate, the outside of a hose can look entirely sound while its liner is already flaking material toward the injector. Calendar age is therefore a legitimate reason to replace hose on a machine of this vintage.
Signals That the Line Is Going
- A persistent gasoline smell around the tank, most pronounced immediately after shutdown while pressure is still trapped
- Dried fuel residue building a caked dust ring at either fitting
- Surface checking, a chalky appearance, or a section that feels stiff and brittle when squeezed
- A damp patch, stain, or genuine puddle under the machine after it has sat
- Bogging under load, stumbling on acceleration, or a lean condition that feels like a nearly empty tank
On a pressurized system a small leak often atomizes into vapor that evaporates before it drips, so a clean floor is not evidence of a healthy hose.
Tools, Supplies, and Handling Gasoline
- Fuel-injection rated hose in the original inside diameter
- New clamps of the matching style, plus a quick-disconnect release tool if a locking coupler is fitted
- Line-clamping pliers for low pressure or vent hose, since no petcock exists here
- An approved sealed container, a shallow drain pan, and plenty of rags
- Nitrile gloves, a razor knife, a flashlight, and sockets for the seat and side panels
Ventilation matters because gasoline vapor is heavier than air and pools at floor level, drifting toward pilot lights and power tools rather than escaping upward. Work outside if possible, or open the overhead door fully and run a fan low to the ground. Keep an extinguisher within reach and keep gloves on throughout, since fuel strips skin oils on contact.
Relieving Pressure and Removing the Line
Pull the fuel pump fuse or relay, then crank the engine until it runs out of supply and quits. Switch the key off and disconnect the battery negative cable. Remove the seat and the side plastics needed to expose the tank flange and the hose run heading to the throttle body. Slide the pan into position and drape a rag over the first joint before you open it, because standing fuel remains in the hose whatever the pressure state.
Move clamps well back along the hose before disturbing a fitting. On a quick-connect, press both tabs evenly and pull straight off the nipple — never pry sideways on an aged collar. When varnish has cemented hose to barb, break the bond with a gentle twist, and if it holds fast, slit the hose lengthwise with the razor and peel it off in halves rather than deforming the fitting. Take photographs of the routing before the old hose is completely free so you can reproduce every clip and clearance point.
Installing the Replacement Cleanly
Cut the new hose to match the original length. Surplus hose sags into moving parts or rubs a frame edge until it wears through. Seat each end fully on its barb, dry. Grease, oil, and silicone spray stay away from fuel fittings entirely; anything slippery on a sealing surface gives pressurized fuel a route out from under the clamp. A brief dip in hot water is the correct way to soften a stubborn end.
Place fresh clamps just behind the raised bead so they cannot migrate, and tighten evenly without pinching the hose flat. A quick-connect coupler takes no clamp: push until you hear the collar click, then tug firmly to confirm the latch caught. Return the hose to each original clip so it holds its clearance from exhaust heat and the front driveline.
Leak Verification and Reassembly
Refit the fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off several times without cranking. Each cycle pressurizes the circuit while everything is clean and dry, which is the best condition for spotting seepage. Inspect both joints closely, wipe them, and look again. Then start the engine and hold a fresh rag near each fitting at idle for a minute or two before the plastics and seat go back on.
Because the filter is inside the tank on this platform rather than inline, a new hose cannot fix a restricted element. If fuel delivery symptoms persist after a properly executed installation, the in-tank pump assembly is the next component to evaluate.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Fuel Lines for a 2018 Polaris Sportsman 570 ATV.
Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2018 Polaris Sportsman 570 ATV.
Shop Petcocks for a 2018 Polaris Sportsman 570 ATV.
Shop Fuel Filters for a 2018 Polaris Sportsman 570 ATV.
Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2018 Polaris Sportsman 570 ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.