Fuel Line Replacement on a 2018 Polaris Sportsman 570 6x6
Shop parts for a 2018 Polaris Sportsman 570 6X6 ATV.
A working 6x6 accumulates the kind of wear a trail machine never sees. Loaded beds, low range crawling, and hours of vibration through an extended chassis all take a toll on rubber components, and the fuel line is no exception. The 2018 Sportsman 570 6x6 runs the ProStar 567 single with electronic fuel injection, so the hose in question carries pressurized fuel from a pump inside the tank and there is no petcock on the machine to shut off flow. Knowing why the hose wears out is what lets you replace it on your terms.
The Mechanics of Hose Deterioration
New fuel hose stays soft because its compound is loaded with plasticizers. Engine heat cycles and the relentless vibration of a six wheel utility machine drive those additives out over time, and as they leave, the hose stiffens. A stiff hose cannot absorb chassis flex, so hairline cracks open at bends and clip points and then work inward through the wall. In dry, low humidity country the process runs faster, because arid air draws residual moisture out of the hose from the outside.
The liner faces a different attacker. Ethanol-blended pump gas absorbs water out of the atmosphere, and fuel left standing in the hose through an inactive stretch slowly breaks the inner surface down while depositing gum and varnish at the barb joints. Those two mechanisms progress independently, which is why a hose can look perfectly acceptable outside while its liner is already shedding fine material toward the injector. On a machine that has been earning its keep for years, calendar age is reason enough to replace it.
Warning Signs on a Working Machine
- Gasoline odor around the tank, sharpest in the first minutes after shutdown while the circuit still holds pressure
- A caked dust ring or dark crust at a fitting, left by seepage that has dried again and again
- Fine surface checking, a chalky gray cast, or a hard glassy section you can feel by pinching along the hose
- A wear scar or flat spot where the hose has escaped a clip and rubbed against frame structure
- A stain or puddle under the machine after it sits, along with bogging under load or a lean surge like a nearly empty tank
Because pressurized fuel escaping a pinhole frequently atomizes and evaporates before it can drip, a clean floor is no proof of a sound hose on this injected 6x6.
Kit, Consumables, and a Workspace That Vents
- Hose rated for fuel-injection pressure, matched to the original inside diameter and not general purpose carburetor line
- New clamps in the correct style, plus a quick-disconnect release tool if a self-locking coupler is fitted
- Line-clamping pliers for low pressure or vent hose, since no shutoff valve exists here
- An approved sealed container, a wide shallow catch pan, and plenty of clean rags
- Nitrile gloves, a razor knife, a flashlight, and sockets for the seat, bed, and side plastics
Ventilation deserves genuine respect. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air, so it sinks and spreads across the floor toward water heater pilots, shop heaters, chargers, and power tools rather than rising and dispersing. Work outdoors if you can, or open the overhead door fully with a fan at floor level pushing air out. Keep an extinguisher within arm's reach and keep gloves on throughout, since fuel strips skin oils on contact and carries additives through skin.
Depressurizing and Removing the Old Hose
Pull the fuel pump fuse or relay, then crank the engine for a few seconds until it runs out of supply and stalls. That relieves the pressure. Switch the key off and disconnect the battery negative cable so the pump cannot be energized while you work. Remove the seat and any side plastics or bed hardware blocking access to the tank flange and the hose run heading toward the throttle body.
Slide the pan under the joint and lay a rag over it before opening, because standing fuel remains in the hose after depressurizing. Move clamps well back along the hose before disturbing a fitting. On a quick-connect, press both release tabs squarely and pull straight off the nipple; sideways prying cracks collars that have gone brittle with age. Where varnish has cemented hose to barb, break the bond with a gentle twist, and if it holds, slit the hose lengthwise and peel it away instead of levering on the fitting.
Photograph the routing carefully before the hose is fully out. A 6x6 chassis is longer than the 4x4 version and carries additional driveline hardware for the extra axle, which means more frame crossings, more clearance points, and more retaining clips than either a 4x4 or a simple two wheel drive layout would demand. Reproducing that exact path is the whole point of the photographs.
Fitting the Replacement Line
Cut the new hose to the same length as the original. Extra length looks harmless and then sags into moving parts or chafes on a frame edge until it wears through — a particular concern on a machine with this much driveline. Push each end fully onto its barb until it bottoms out, and install it dry. Grease, oil, and silicone spray have no place on a fuel fitting, because a lubricated sealing surface gives pressurized fuel a route to migrate out from under the clamp. Dip a stubborn end in hot water for ten seconds and it will slide on unaided.
Place fresh clamps just inboard of the raised bead so they cannot walk off, and tighten them evenly rather than crushing the hose wall. A self-locking quick-connect takes no clamp: push until the collar clicks, then pull firmly to confirm the latch caught. Reinstall the hose in every original clip along the extended chassis.
Proving the Repair Before It Goes Back to Work
Reinstall the fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off four or five times without cranking. Each cycle spins the pump and pressurizes the line while the area is clean and dry, the easiest condition in which to catch a weep. Study both joints, wipe them down, and inspect again. Then start the engine and hold a clean rag near each fitting for a minute or two at idle before the plastics, bed hardware, and seat go back on.
One platform note worth keeping: on the injected Sportsman 570 6x6 the fuel filter is integrated into the in-tank pump assembly rather than sitting inline where you can reach it on the visible hose. New line will not resolve a restricted filter, so if the machine still acts starved after a clean installation, that module inside the tank is the next stop.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Fuel Lines for a 2018 Polaris Sportsman 570 6X6 ATV.
Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2018 Polaris Sportsman 570 6X6 ATV.
Shop Petcocks for a 2018 Polaris Sportsman 570 6X6 ATV.
Shop Fuel Filters for a 2018 Polaris Sportsman 570 6X6 ATV.
Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2018 Polaris Sportsman 570 6X6 ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.