Renewing the Fuel Line on a 2018 Can-Am Renegade 1000R
Shop parts for a 2018 Can-Am Renegade 1000R ATV.
Order the right hose the first time and this job goes smoothly on the 2018 Renegade 1000R. Order generic hose and you will be doing it twice. The distinction matters because this machine's 976cc Rotax V-twin is fuel injected, fed by an electric pump inside the tank, which means the supply line operates under real pressure rather than the gentle gravity feed a carbureted quad relies on. Low-pressure hose intended for a carburetor will not survive on this circuit, and there is no petcock here to shut off flow while you work.
Build Your Parts and Tool List
- Nitrile or rubber gloves — gasoline pulls the oils straight out of bare skin
- An approved metal or fuel-rated plastic container, plus a wide catch pan
- Replacement hose rated for fuel-injection pressure in the exact original inside diameter
- New clamps in the style your machine actually uses, and a quick-disconnect release tool if the tank outlet has a locking coupler
- Line-clamping pliers for closing off a low-pressure section, since there is no shutoff valve on this model
- Sockets and drivers for the seat and side plastics, a sharp razor knife, and a generous supply of clean rags
Then think about where you are doing the work. Gasoline vapor is denser than air, so it flows downward and accumulates at floor level rather than venting out an open window overhead. Work outside or with the shop door fully raised and get air moving at ground level. Unplug battery chargers, space heaters, and grinders, shut off any pilot flame in the building, and keep an extinguisher beside the machine instead of on a shelf somewhere.
What Time Does to a Fuel Hose
Fuel line ages out for two reasons that have nothing to do with mileage. First, the plasticizers that give rubber its flexibility slowly migrate out of the hose wall, and the heat cycling from a V-twin of this size drives them out faster. The hose stiffens, loses its spring, and begins to crack under normal chassis vibration, almost always at a bend rather than on a straight run. Dry, arid climates make this worse because low humidity draws moisture out of the material from the outside inward.
Second, ethanol-blended gasoline works on the liner from within. Alcohol in the fuel absorbs water and gradually breaks the liner down, softening it and leaving gum in its wake. A 1000R that goes long periods between rides with fuel in the system provides exactly the conditions that reaction wants. Between the two, a hose can look entirely reasonable on the outside while it comes apart internally, which is why years in service matter as much as a visual inspection.
Symptoms You Can Diagnose in the Driveway
Check for these before the hose forces the issue:
- Fuel pooling under the frame or dampening the skid plate after the quad has been sitting
- A gasoline odor that lingers around the tank, sharpest immediately after shutdown while pressure is still held
- Surface checking, a chalky finish, or a stretch of hose that feels rigid when squeezed
- The engine bogging under throttle, stumbling lean at higher rpm, or acting as though it were nearly out of fuel
- A ring of caked grime at a fitting, which is dried fuel residue collecting dust over time
A pressurized leak often atomizes and evaporates rather than dripping, so treat a persistent smell as a genuine finding even if the floor beneath the machine stays clean.
Depressurizing the Supply
Pull the fuel pump fuse or relay, crank the engine briefly and let it die as the residual pressure is spent, turn the key off, and disconnect the negative battery cable. That short sequence turns a pressurized circuit into an ordinary hose holding a modest amount of fuel, and it guarantees the pump cannot energize while your hands are on the plumbing. Slide the drain pan into position and drape a rag over the first joint you plan to open.
Removing the Aged Hose
With the seat and side panels removed, trace the line from the tank outlet forward to the throttle body and note each clip securing it. Move every clamp well back on the hose before you apply force to a barb. Spring clips squeeze open with pliers, worm-gear clamps loosen and slide. For a quick-connect coupler, depress the release tabs evenly and draw the fitting straight off — angled prying cracks the plastic collar, which embrittles as it ages.
Twist each hose end gently to break the varnish seal instead of yanking it. If one has bonded solidly to a fitting, split it lengthwise with the razor and peel it away; the hose is scrap and the fitting has to survive. The 1000R is a selectable 4x4, so the run passes front differential hardware and additional frame bracing that would not exist on a two-wheel-drive machine, and photographing the routing before removal is well worth the thirty seconds.
Mounting the New Line Correctly
Cut the replacement to the original length, no longer. Slack lets the hose lean into frame tubes or front drive components where abrasion will eventually open it, and a short piece loads its fittings every time the engine moves. Push each end all the way onto its barb until it bottoms out, and install it dry. Nothing lubricated belongs on a fuel fitting, since grease or silicone on the sealing surface is precisely how pressurized fuel finds a way past a clamp. Soften a stubborn hose end in hot water if you need help getting it started.
Locate the new clamps just behind the raised bead at each fitting and tighten them evenly, snug without biting into fresh rubber. Where the tank end uses a self-locking quick-connect, push until you feel the collar click and then pull firmly to prove it has latched; that joint takes no clamp. Refit the hose into all of its original clips, keeping it away from exhaust heat and anything that rotates.
The Dry Test
Reinstall the pump fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off several times without cranking. Each cycle pressurizes the line and lets you inspect both joints while everything is still dry and easy to read. Wipe the fittings with a clean rag and look for any bead forming. Then start the engine and check again at idle, tracing the full run with a flashlight while heat and vibration are in play. Several minutes of leak-free idling followed by a slow lap of the property should come before the plastics go back on.
Keep one thing in mind afterward: the fuel filter on this injected 1000R is part of the in-tank pump module rather than an inline element on the visible hose. Replacing the line does nothing for a restricted filter, so if the machine still behaves like it is starving for fuel, the in-tank assembly is where to look next.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Fuel Lines for a 2018 Can-Am Renegade 1000R ATV.
Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2018 Can-Am Renegade 1000R ATV.
Shop Petcocks for a 2018 Can-Am Renegade 1000R ATV.
Shop Fuel Filters for a 2018 Can-Am Renegade 1000R ATV.
Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2018 Can-Am Renegade 1000R ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.