Changing Out the Fuel Line on a 2018 Outlander MAX 570 XT
Shop parts for a 2018 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 XT ATV.
Buy the right hose and the job takes an hour. Buy the wrong hose and you will be doing it again. That is the practical summary of fuel line replacement on a 2018 Outlander MAX 570 XT, where the fuel-injected Rotax 570 pushes gasoline from an in-tank pump through a pressurized line to the throttle body. Low-pressure carburetor hose has no place on this machine, and there is no petcock to make the job convenient.
Getting Parts and the Workspace Sorted First
Stage all of this before you loosen anything:
- Nitrile or rubber gloves along with eye protection
- A shallow drain pan and a sealed container approved for gasoline storage
- Fuel line rated for injection pressure, in the same inside diameter the machine came with, cut generously long so you can trim to fit
- Fresh clamps matched to your fitting style, and a quick-disconnect release tool if a locking coupler sits at the tank outlet
- Line-clamping pliers, since this Outlander offers no shutoff valve of its own
- Hose cutter or new razor blade, flat screwdriver, sockets for the seat and side panels, and plenty of rags
Handle the ventilation question properly rather than assuming a cracked window covers it. Gasoline vapor is denser than air, so it flows down and gathers at floor level where an ignition source you forgot about can find it. Work outdoors if possible, or raise the overhead door all the way so air moves across the floor. Kill pilot lights, shut off space heaters, unplug chargers, keep a fire extinguisher within reach, and let the engine cool completely before you start.
The Slow Death of a Fuel Hose
Fuel line hardens over time as the plasticizers keeping it soft migrate out of the rubber. Once the wall stops flexing, the Rotax's heat cycles and the chassis flex from rough trail work convert that stiffness into fine cracks, usually first at a tight bend. Dry-climate riders hit this milestone earlier, because arid air draws moisture from the hose and hardens it from the surface inward.
Ethanol-blended gasoline supplies a second mechanism. Alcohol in the fuel attracts moisture and slowly attacks the inner liner, so a hose can be brittle on the outside and softening on the inside simultaneously. A MAX 570 XT that sits idle with fuel standing in the line takes both hits, and material shed from the liner heads for the injector when the pump next builds pressure.
What a Failing Line Looks and Smells Like
- A wet patch or thin puddle under the machine after it has sat for a while
- Gasoline odor that hangs around the seat area, most obvious right after shutdown
- Cracking, crazing, or a chalky texture on the outside of the hose
- A hardened section that does not compress when you pinch it
- Bogging under load, lean running, or an engine acting as if it is nearly out of fuel
- Dust caked in a dried fuel ring at a fitting, which reveals slow weeping
Since this circuit runs under pressure, small leaks often evaporate before they drip. An odor you cannot pin to a visible puddle still means it is time to pull the bodywork and inspect both ends of the line carefully.
Relieving Pressure and Removing the Line
Kill the pressure before opening anything. Remove the fuel pump fuse, crank the engine briefly until it stalls for lack of fuel, switch the key off, and disconnect the negative battery cable. Then take the seat off and remove enough side bodywork to reach the tank outlet.
Follow the hose all the way forward before you disturb it, then slide the drain pan into position and lay a rag over the joint you plan to open. Even a depressurized line holds fuel that will run out. Push existing clamps well back along the hose before touching the fitting itself.
Quick-connect couplers come apart by squeezing the tabs squarely and pulling straight off the nipple — never lever them sideways, since aged plastic collars crack under that load. On a barbed fitting, twist the hose lightly to break the varnish bond first. If it will not release, slit the old line lengthwise with a razor and peel it off instead of applying force to the fitting.
Clearance Points on a Two-Up 4x4
Pay attention to the path the old hose followed. The MAX frame is longer to make room for the passenger seat, which stretches the run and adds retaining clips. The 4x4 driveline puts front differential hardware and additional frame structure in the way that a two-wheel-drive quad does not have, and the XT package contributes a winch and reinforced bumper with their own mounting and wiring near the front of the machine.
None of this changes the fundamental procedure, but it does mean the new hose needs to follow the original route precisely. Photograph each clip and pass-through before the old line is fully free, then cut the replacement to exactly that length — a long piece chafes or catches, and a short one tugs at both fittings whenever the chassis flexes.
Installing the New Hose and Verifying the Seal
Push each end fully onto its barb until it bottoms out, working dry. Grease, oil, and silicone all belong nowhere near these fittings, because lubricant on the sealing surface hands pressurized fuel a path to creep out past the hose wall. A few seconds in hot water softens a stubborn end enough to slide on by hand.
Place new clamps just behind the raised bead at each fitting and tighten evenly, firm enough to hold pressure without cutting into the rubber. Where a self-locking quick-connect is used, push it on until it clicks and give it a solid tug to confirm the latch engaged; that connection takes no clamp. Secure the hose in its original clips so it stays clear of exhaust heat and the front driveline.
Finish with a real leak check. Reinstall the pump fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off five or six times without cranking so the pump loads the line while everything is still dry. Inspect both joints, wipe them with a clean rag, and inspect again. Start the engine, check at idle, then check once more after several minutes of warm running before the panels & seat go back on. And remember that this injected Outlander carries its filter inside the tank as part of the pump assembly rather than out on the visible line, so a fuel delivery complaint that survives a clean hose swap points squarely at that module.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Fuel Lines for a 2018 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 XT ATV.
Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2018 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 XT ATV.
Shop Petcocks for a 2018 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 XT ATV.
Shop Fuel Filters for a 2018 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 XT ATV.
Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2018 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 XT ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.