Fuel Line Replacement on the 2018 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570

Shop parts for a 2018 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 ATV.

The fuel hose on a 2018 Outlander MAX 570 is one of those parts nobody thinks about until it puts a puddle on the garage floor. This machine's Rotax 570 V-twin runs electronic fuel injection with the pump and filter mounted inside the tank, so the hose in question is a pressurized supply line rather than a gravity feed. Knowing that up front tells you why there is no petcock to close and why the job starts with bleeding pressure.

Spotting Trouble During a Routine Look

Most hose failures announce themselves quietly. Next time the seat is off, put a light on the whole run and check for the following:

  • A wet film or small puddle beneath the tank area after the machine has sat overnight
  • A gasoline smell that hangs around and is sharpest right after you shut the key off
  • Fine surface cracks that open wider when you flex the hose gently
  • A chalky grey cast or a hard section you can feel by pinching between finger and thumb
  • Grime caked into a ring at either fitting, which is what slow weeping leaves behind
  • The V-twin bogging on hard acceleration or acting starved with plenty of fuel aboard

Because this is a pressurized circuit, a small leak can atomize into vapor and evaporate before it ever drips. If your nose says fuel and the floor says nothing, keep looking.

The Two Ways Hose Wears Out

Externally, heat is the driver. The hose absorbs cycle after cycle of engine heat, which pushes the plasticizers out of the rubber and leaves the wall progressively harder. A hardened wall cannot absorb chassis flex, so rough terrain works cracks into the surface until one goes through. In dry, high-desert climates this happens years earlier, because low humidity strips moisture out of the hose from the outside inward.

Internally, ethanol is the driver. Alcohol in pump gas attracts water, and fuel that sits in the line during a slow stretch of the season degrades the inner liner, which softens and begins releasing material into the fuel stream heading for the injectors. Both processes run in parallel, and neither is fully visible from the outside.

Preparation and Fuel Safety

Have your kit assembled first: gloves and eye protection, injection-rated hose matched to the original inside diameter, correct-style clamps or a quick-connect release tool, line-clamping pliers to stand in for the missing petcock, a catch pan, a sealed fuel-rated container, a razor blade, hand tools for the seat and panels, and rags.

Then set up the space properly. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air, so it flows downward and collects in a layer across the floor exactly where you will be kneeling, and your nose stops registering it after a few minutes. Work outdoors when the weather cooperates, or open the shop enough that air actually moves at ground level rather than trusting a window overhead. Shut off water heaters and furnaces with standing pilot flames, keep grinders and torches out of the building, and place a fire extinguisher next to the machine rather than across the shop.

Removing the Old Hose

Relieve pressure by pulling the fuel pump fuse and running the engine until it stalls from fuel starvation. Turn the key off and disconnect the battery negative cable so the pump cannot cycle mid-job. Remove the seat and side plastics to get real access to both ends of the hose — working through a gap is how fittings get broken.

Slide the catch pan under the area and lay a rag over the joint you plan to open first, because the hose still holds liquid fuel. Push spring clips or worm clamps well back along the hose before you disturb the fitting itself. On a self-locking quick-connect, squeeze the tabs evenly and pull the coupler straight off the nipple; prying at an angle splits plastic that has spent years in weather. If dried varnish has bonded the hose to a barb, twist gently to shear it loose, and slit the hose lengthwise with a blade if it still will not release.

Photograph the routing before the line is fully out. The MAX 570 is a selectable 4x4, and the front differential and its associated hardware send the supply hose along a path with clips and clearance points that a two-wheel-drive quad does not have.

Installing and Sealing the New Line

Cut the replacement to the same length as what came out. Excess hose is not a margin of safety; it is a section that will chafe on the frame or interfere with steering travel. Push each end fully onto its barb until it seats past the raised bead, and assemble everything dry. Grease, oil, and silicone spray all look helpful and all give pressurized fuel a channel to escape from under a clamp. Twenty seconds in hot water softens a stubborn hose end far more safely.

Set new clamps just behind the bead on each fitting and tighten them evenly, snug enough to seal without biting into the rubber. A self-locking quick-connect gets no clamp at all – push until the collar clicks and confirm with a firm pull. Route the finished hose through every original guide so it stays away from exhaust heat and clear of the front driveline.

The Test That Finishes the Job

Reinstall the pump fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off four or five times without cranking. Each cycle runs the pump and pressurizes the line, giving you a clean look at both joints before anything has had a chance to move. Wipe each fitting with a light-colored rag and watch for staining, which shows up well before an actual drip does.

Start the V-twin next and inspect again at idle. Vibration exposes seals that pass a static pressure test and weep once the engine is running. Give it several minutes of dry idle, then put the bodywork back on and check once more after a short ride with the machine fully warm.

One last thing about this platform: the fuel filter on the injected MAX 570 is built into the in-tank pump module rather than sitting inline on the visible hose. A fresh line eliminates leaks and cracked rubber, but if the engine still feels short on fuel under load, the assembly inside the tank is the next place to look.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Fuel Lines for a 2018 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 ATV.

Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2018 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 ATV.

Shop Petcocks for a 2018 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 ATV.

Shop Fuel Filters for a 2018 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 ATV.

Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2018 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.