Replacing a Cracked Fuel Line on the 2018 Can-Am Outlander 850 DPS

Shop parts for a 2018 Can-Am Outlander 850 DPS ATV.

Fuel hose is the quietest wear item on a 2018 Outlander 850 DPS. Nobody puts it on a checklist, nobody thinks about it while the machine runs well, and then one day there is a stain on the garage floor. Understanding why the rubber gives up is the fastest way to catch a failing line early, so that is where this walkthrough starts before it moves into the actual replacement.

The Slow Death of a Rubber Fuel Hose

Fuel hose is built around a flexible polymer wall loaded with plasticizers. Those compounds are what make the hose bend without splitting, and they gradually migrate out of the material with time and temperature. What began as a soft, springy hose becomes stiff, then glassy, then cracked. The 854cc Rotax V-twin puts real heat into the engine bay, and every warm-up and cool-down cycle nudges that process forward. Add years of chassis flex on rutted trail and the hardened wall starts opening fissures, usually right where the hose bends onto a fitting.

Climate is a genuine variable. In dry, high-desert country the outer wall dries and hardens noticeably faster than it does in humid regions, so an Outlander that spends its life in arid terrain can need a hose sooner than its calendar age suggests. Working from the other side, ethanol-blended pump gas left standing in the line through an idle stretch of months pulls in moisture and slowly degrades the inner liner. The bore gums, softens, and sheds material toward the injectors while the exterior keeps getting brittle. That two-front attack is why replacing hose on age alone is sound practice rather than paranoia.

Establishing That This Machine Runs Injection

Before you plan the job, settle the fuel system question. The 2018 Outlander 850 DPS is fuel injected. You will not find a petcock under the tank, and there is no float bowl to drain. An in-tank electric pump feeds the fuel rail through a supply hose that holds pressure after shutdown, which means the very first task is bleeding the circuit rather than closing a valve. The fittings can also differ from what a carbureted quad offers: expect the possibility of a self-locking quick-connect coupler at the pump flange instead of a plain barb with a worm clamp.

The DPS gives you switchable 2WD and 4WD, and the front driveline hardware stays installed regardless of which mode you use. Practically, that means the hose run is routed with deliberate clearance around the front differential, prop shaft, and power steering unit, and it is held in clips that maintain that spacing. Replicate the original path exactly and you avoid a chafed hose later.

Symptoms That Justify Pulling the Plastics

  • Fuel drips or a wet film on the skid plate after the machine has been standing
  • A gasoline smell that lingers around the tank area, most obvious right after the engine stops
  • Visible checking, a chalky surface, or a stretch of hose that feels rigid under your fingers
  • The engine bogging when loaded, hesitating on throttle, or running as if it were low on fuel
  • A grimy halo at a fitting, left behind by fuel that seeped and dried repeatedly

Remember that pressurized leaks on an injected machine frequently mist rather than drip. A strong smell with no visible puddle is still a finding, not a false alarm.

Preparation, Parts, and Handling Gasoline Sensibly

  • Nitrile gloves and eye protection
  • A drain pan and a sealed, fuel-rated container for captured gasoline
  • Replacement hose rated for injection pressure in the correct inside diameter
  • New clamps to match the fittings, and a quick-connect release tool if a locking coupler is fitted
  • Line-clamping pliers to pinch off flow, since this machine has no petcock
  • Sockets, drivers, and rags for removing the seat and side panels and mopping spills

Take ventilation seriously. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air and collects at floor level, where an ignition source is most likely to find it, so work outdoors or with the door wide open and a fan pushing air low and out. Shut down heaters, unplug chargers, and keep an extinguisher beside the machine. Fuel-soaked rags belong in a sealed metal container, not a pile in the corner.

Removing the Old Hose Without a Mess

Bleed the pressure first. Pull the fuel pump fuse or unplug the pump connector, crank until the engine stalls, key off, then disconnect the battery negative terminal. Remove the seat and side plastics for access to the tank and the hose run. Slide the drain pan into place and lay a rag over the first joint you open, since standing fuel will still run out of a depressurized line.

Take photos of the routing before anything moves. Then slide worm-gear or spring clamps back along the hose to free the joint. Release a quick-connect by pressing its tabs squarely and pulling the coupler straight off the nipple; levering it to one side is what cracks the aged plastic collar. If varnish has cemented the hose to a barb, run a razor down its length and peel it off rather than applying twisting force to a fitting you do not want to break.

Fitting the Replacement and Proving It Dry

Cut new hose to the same length as the old, not longer. Slack hose finds something to rub against, and on a 4x4 chassis that something is usually the front driveline or a frame edge. Slide each end fully onto its fitting until it stops against the shoulder, and do it completely dry. No grease, oil, or silicone touches a fuel fitting, because any lubricant film under the clamp gives pressurized fuel a route out. Dipping the hose end briefly in hot water is all the help it needs. Place fresh clamps just behind the raised bead on each barb and tighten evenly, and where a self-locking coupler is used, push until you hear the click and then pull hard enough to confirm engagement. Those fittings are designed to seal without a clamp.

Route the hose back through every clip, reinstall the pump fuse, and Reconnect the battery. Turn the key on and off several times without cranking so the pump builds pressure, and study both joints with a clean rag. Start the engine, idle for several minutes, and check a final time before the bodywork goes back on. One closing note specific to this Outlander: the fuel filter is integrated into the in-tank pump module rather than sitting inline where you can swap it, so if delivery still feels weak with a new hose in place, that module is the next thing to investigate.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Fuel Lines for a 2018 Can-Am Outlander 850 DPS ATV.

Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2018 Can-Am Outlander 850 DPS ATV.

Shop Petcocks for a 2018 Can-Am Outlander 850 DPS ATV.

Shop Fuel Filters for a 2018 Can-Am Outlander 850 DPS ATV.

Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2018 Can-Am Outlander 850 DPS ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.