Fuel Line Replacement on the 2017 Polaris Sportsman Touring 570 SP

Shop parts for a 2017 Polaris Sportsman Touring 570 SP ATV.

Most riders do not go looking for a fuel line problem — the fuel line finds them, usually at the far end of a trail with a passenger on the back. The 2017 Sportsman Touring 570 SP carries two people and a load of gear, and that extra weight means the ProStar 567 single is working harder and generating more heat under the plastics than a bare-bones single-seat quad ever does. Heat is what ages rubber, so learning to read a tired hose on this machine pays for itself.

Symptoms That Point Straight at the Hose

Before you commit to the job, make sure the hose is actually the problem. The following signs all point at fuel plumbing rather than ignition or airflow:

  • A damp patch or small puddle on the skid plate or garage floor under the front half of the chassis
  • A gasoline odor that lingers around the seats, strongest in the first minute after shutdown while the system still holds pressure
  • Visible hairline cracking, a chalky gray surface, or a section that feels rigid and glassy when you squeeze it
  • Bogging when you roll into the throttle with a passenger aboard, or a lean stumble that clears when you back off
  • A ring of caked dust and grit at a fitting, which is the classic fingerprint of fuel that seeped and evaporated repeatedly

On this machine a slow leak on the pressurized side will not always drip. Fuel under pressure atomizes and evaporates fast, so your nose often catches the problem days before your eyes do.

What Actually Kills a Fuel Hose

Rubber fuel line does not wear out mechanically; it loses the plasticizers that keep it flexible. Every heat cycle from the ProStar single drives a little more of that out, and the hose slowly transitions from soft and compliant to hard and brittle. Once it stiffens, ordinary chassis flex over rocks and ruts starts opening fissures at the flex points and right behind the clamps. Riders in dry, low-humidity country see this happen noticeably faster, because arid air accelerates the hardening from the outside inward.

Ethanol-blended pump gas works the other direction, softening and swelling the inner liner while the outside continues to harden. A Touring 570 SP that sits between seasons with E10 in the system suffers most, since the alcohol pulls in moisture and gets a long, undisturbed shot at the hose wall.

Know Your Fuel System First

This is the step people skip, and it matters. The 2017 Touring 570 SP is electronically fuel injected, which means there is no petcock or fuel valve to rotate to the off position. Fuel is delivered by an electric pump mounted inside the tank, and the line running from the tank to the throttle body stays pressurized even with the key off and the engine cold. Carbureted quads let you simply shut a valve and drain a float bowl; here you have to bleed the pressure down electrically before you loosen anything. The in-tank pump module also carries the fuel filter, so there is no serviceable inline filter hanging on the hose you are about to replace.

Gather Your Gear and Set Up a Safe Space

Have everything within arm's reach before the first fitting comes loose:

  • Nitrile or rubber gloves, since gasoline strips skin oils in seconds
  • An approved sealed container for whatever fuel escapes, plus a wide catch pan
  • Replacement hose rated for fuel-injection pressure and matched to the original inside diameter — low-pressure carburetor hose will balloon and fail here
  • Fresh clamps of the correct style, and a quick-disconnect release tool if your tank fitting uses a locking collar
  • Line-clamping pliers for pinching off any low-pressure or vent section, since no petcock exists on this model
  • Basic sockets and a trim tool for the seats, side panels, and front console plastics

Do this work outside or with the door fully open. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air and settles at floor level, so airflow near the ground matters far more than a cracked window overhead. Keep heaters, grinders, chargers, and anything else that sparks completely out of the space.

Getting the Old Line Out of the Chassis

Bleed the pressure first. Pull the fuel pump fuse or relay, crank the engine until it sputters and dies, switch the key off, then disconnect the battery negative cable. On the Touring chassis you will need both seats and the surrounding bodywork off to follow the hose from the tank flange forward to the throttle body, and the longer two-up frame means a longer run with more retaining clips than a standard-length Sportsman.

Slide your pan underneath and drape a rag over each joint as you open it, because residual fuel sits in the line even after depressurizing. Push worm-gear or spring clamps well back along the hose before you disturb the barb. For a quick-connect coupler, press the tabs squarely and pull straight off — never lever it sideways, since aged plastic collars crack easily. If varnish has glued the hose to a fitting, slit it lengthwise with a blade and peel it rather than twisting and risking damage to the barb. This is an On-Demand AWD machine, so note where the hose passes near front driveline hardware and frame crossmembers before it is fully free, and photograph every clip.

Fitting the Replacement Cleanly

Cut the new hose to the same length as the old one. Extra slack sounds harmless but invites chafing against the frame or contact with hot exhaust shielding. Push each end fully onto its barb until it bottoms out, and install it dry. No grease, oil, or silicone belongs on a fuel fitting — lubricant on the sealing surface gives pressurized fuel a path to creep past the hose wall. Softening the hose end in hot water for a few seconds is the right way to ease a tight fit.

Set new clamps just behind the raised bead on each fitting and tighten them evenly rather than crushing one side. Where the tank uses a self-locking quick-connect, push until it clicks and then tug hard to confirm it has latched; that joint needs no clamp at all. Return the hose to every original clip so it stays clear of the driveline and heat sources.

Pressurize, Inspect, Then Ride

Reinstall the pump fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off several times without cranking. Each cycle runs the pump and builds pressure, giving you a dry-engine look at both joints. Wipe them with a clean rag and watch for any bead of fuel forming. Then start the engine, let it idle, and inspect once more with the ProStar running and vibrating. Only after several minutes of confirmed dry running should the plastics and seats go back on. If the 570 SP still stumbles under load after a clean install, the in-tank pump and filter assembly is the logical next place to look.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Fuel Lines for a 2017 Polaris Sportsman Touring 570 SP ATV.

Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2017 Polaris Sportsman Touring 570 SP ATV.

Shop Petcocks for a 2017 Polaris Sportsman Touring 570 SP ATV.

Shop Fuel Filters for a 2017 Polaris Sportsman Touring 570 SP ATV.

Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2017 Polaris Sportsman Touring 570 SP ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.