A Practical Fuel Line Swap for the 2017 Sportsman 570 SP

Shop parts for a 2017 Polaris Sportsman 570 SP ATV.

Gather your parts and tools in one place before you begin, because this is not a job you want to interrupt halfway through. The 2017 Polaris Sportsman 570 SP uses the ProStar 567cc single with electronic fuel injection, which means the hose you are about to remove holds pressurized fuel from a pump inside the tank. Once a fitting is open, walking across the shop to hunt for a clamp is the worst possible time to do it.

Everything You Should Have on Hand

  • Nitrile or rubber gloves plus eye protection — fuel under pressure can spray sideways when a fitting releases
  • A drain pan and a sealed, fuel-rated container to hold what comes out
  • Replacement hose in the correct inside diameter, rated for injection pressure rather than low-pressure carburetor duty
  • Fresh clamps in the style already installed, not whatever happens to be in the drawer
  • A quick-disconnect release tool if the pump flange carries a locking coupler
  • Line-clamping pliers, which take the place of the fuel valve this Sportsman does not have
  • A socket set and small flat blade for the seat, panels, and hose clips
  • A razor knife and a stack of clean rags

Why There Is No Petcock to Close

Owners who cut their teeth on carbureted quads expect to reach under the tank, rotate a valve to off, and start pulling hose. That does not exist here. The 570 SP is fuel injected, so a pump mounted inside the tank pushes fuel down the supply line under pressure, and the pressure stays in the line after the key comes off. Two consequences shape the whole job. You have to relieve that pressure on purpose before separating any fitting, and the clamping pliers become your shutoff when you want to isolate a section of hose. Injected models also tend to use different hardware at the tank end, where a self-locking quick-connect coupler may replace the simple clamp a carbureted machine would use.

The Reasons Fuel Lines Give Out

Deterioration comes from both directions. Externally, heat cycling off the engine and years of exposure drive the plasticizers out of the rubber, so the hose hardens until it cannot flex with the vibration a single-cylinder 570 sends through the frame. Fine cracks then open at the bends and where the hose meets a barb. Dry climates speed this along because low-humidity air pulls moisture from the hose wall and stiffens it from the surface inward. Internally, ethanol-blended pump gas attracts atmospheric water and gradually attacks the liner, leaving gum and soft spots, worst during stretches when fuel sits unused in the line. That combination is why age matters as much as appearance.

Signs It Is Time to Replace

Look and smell for a gasoline odor around the seat and tank, most obvious in the minutes right after shutdown. Check the floor for a damp patch or puddle after an overnight sit, typically under the mid-chassis. Squeeze the hose along its length and note any section that feels rigid instead of pliable, then inspect visually for crazing or a chalky gray bloom. Watch how the machine runs: bogging under load, hesitation off idle, or the feeling that it is starved with a full tank all point at fuel delivery. A ring of caked dirt at a fitting is the residue of fuel seeping and drying repeatedly. Do keep in mind that a pressure-side leak can atomize and evaporate before dripping, so a repeatable smell without a stain still counts as a finding.

Ventilation and Taking the Old Line Off

Handle the workspace before anything else. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air, so it sinks and travels along the floor toward any ignition source at that level rather than venting out an overhead window. Work outside or with the door open all the way, shut down space heaters and hot work lamps, and keep clear of appliances with standing pilot flames. Gloves stay on the entire time, because gasoline strips skin oils quickly.

Then relieve pressure. Pull the fuel pump fuse or relay, crank the engine several seconds until it stalls or will not fire, turn the key off, and disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the seat and the side panels covering the tank and the hose run heading forward to the throttle body. Slide the pan into place and drape a rag over the first joint you open, since the hose is still full even with pressure gone.

Move any existing clamp well back along the hose before disturbing the connection. Locking quick-connects release when their tabs are pressed squarely and the coupler is pulled straight off the port; prying to one side cracks the brittle plastic collar. On barbed fittings, a gentle twist breaks the varnish bond built up over years. If the hose refuses to release, slit it lengthwise with a razor and peel it away to protect the barb. Note the routing while you work: as a 4x4, this machine runs its line past front differential hardware and through frame clearance points a two-wheel-drive quad does not have, so photograph the clips before the old hose comes fully out.

Installation and the Leak Test

Cut the replacement to the exact length you removed. Extra hose is not a margin of safety; it rubs on the frame or drifts toward hot exhaust. Push each end fully onto its barb until it bottoms against the shoulder, and install it dry. Grease, oil, and silicone spray belong nowhere near a fuel fitting, because lubricant on the sealing face gives pressurized fuel a route past an otherwise tight clamp. If a hose end resists, soften it in hot water for thirty seconds and try again.

Set new clamps just behind the raised bead on each fitting and tighten them evenly rather than crushing one side. A self-locking quick-connect clicks when it seats, and a firm pull confirms the latch; that style takes no clamp. Reinstall the hose into every original retainer so it holds position clear of the driveline and heat.

Restore the fuse or relay, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the ignition on and off five or six times without cranking. Each cycle runs the pump and pressurizes the circuit, giving you a clean, dry field in which to examine both joints. Wipe each with a fresh rag and look for the slightest transfer. Then start the engine, let it idle several minutes, and check once more with the system at full running pressure before the panels and seat go back on.

One closing detail worth knowing: on this injected 570 the fuel filter is built into the in-tank pump module rather than sitting inline where you could change it with the hose. New line solves a cracked or leaking line. Persistent bogging after a leak-free install points toward that assembly inside the tank.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Fuel Lines for a 2017 Polaris Sportsman 570 SP ATV.

Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2017 Polaris Sportsman 570 SP ATV.

Shop Petcocks for a 2017 Polaris Sportsman 570 SP ATV.

Shop Fuel Filters for a 2017 Polaris Sportsman 570 SP ATV.

Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2017 Polaris Sportsman 570 SP ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.