Safe Fuel Line Replacement on a 2017 Polaris Sportsman 570
Shop parts for a 2017 Polaris Sportsman 570 ATV.
Every fuel job on a 2017 Sportsman 570 should begin with the same question: where is the gasoline going to go? This machine uses the ProStar 567 single with electronic fuel injection, so the supply hose is pressurized by a pump living inside the tank and there is no petcock to close before you start. Opening that circuit without preparing for the fuel it contains is how garages end up smelling of gas for a month. Sort out the environment first and the mechanical work that follows is genuinely simple.
Setting Up a Space You Can Work In
Gasoline vapor is denser than air. It does not drift up and out an open window; it sinks, spreads across the floor, and travels toward whatever ignition source sits at that height. In most home shops that means a water heater pilot, a standing heater, a battery charger, or the sparks off a grinder. Roll the 570 outdoors if the weather allows. If it has to stay inside, open the overhead door completely and put a fan on the floor moving air out rather than stirring it around.
Keep a fire extinguisher within arm's reach instead of on a far wall, and have an approved sealed container ready for the fuel you capture rather than an open bucket. Nitrile gloves belong on for the whole job, since pump gas pulls the oils straight out of skin and carries its additives through it. None of this is boilerplate; it is the difference between a clean repair and a bad afternoon.
Parts and Tools to Have Staged
- Hose rated for fuel-injection pressure, matched to the original inside diameter rather than general purpose carburetor line
- New clamps in the correct style and size, plus a quick-disconnect release tool if a self-locking coupler is present
- Line-clamping pliers for pinching off low pressure or vent hose, since this machine has no shutoff valve
- A shallow catch pan, a stack of clean rags, and a sharp razor knife
- A bright flashlight and sockets for the seat and side plastics
How Fuel Hose Reaches the End of Its Life
Deterioration attacks from both surfaces. On the outside, plasticizers that keep the compound pliable migrate out under repeated engine heat and steady vibration. The hose stiffens, and once it is stiff, ordinary chassis flex opens hairline cracks that work their way inward season after season. Machines in dry country age faster here, because low ambient humidity draws moisture out of the hose wall.
On the inside, ethanol-blended fuel does the damage. E10 absorbs atmospheric water, and fuel that sits still in the hose over a long layup slowly breaks down the liner while depositing gum and varnish at the barb joints. Since the two processes are independent, a hose can present a smooth, flexible exterior while its liner is already shedding fine debris toward the injector. That is why service years matter as much as appearance on a 570 this far into its life.
Spotting Trouble Before It Strands You
- Gasoline odor near the tank, strongest in the first minutes after shutdown while pressure remains in the line
- A caked dust ring or dark crust at either fitting, the residue of seepage drying repeatedly
- Fine cracks, a chalky gray surface, or a hard glassy stretch you can feel by pinching along the hose
- A stain, damp patch, or puddle beneath the machine after it has been parked overnight
- Bogging under load, hesitation on hard throttle, or a lean feel that mimics an almost empty tank
Because pressurized fuel escaping a pinhole often atomizes and evaporates before it drips, a dry floor proves nothing on an injected quad. Smell and touch are the more dependable senses here.
Depressurizing, Then Getting the Old Hose Out
Pull the fuel pump fuse or relay and crank the engine for a few seconds until it stalls, which relieves system pressure. Turn the key off and disconnect the battery negative cable so the pump cannot run again by accident. Remove the seat and whatever side plastics block access to the tank flange and the hose run climbing to the throttle body.
Slide the pan under the joint and lay a rag over it before opening, since a depressurized hose still holds standing fuel. Push clamps well back along the hose first. On a quick-connect coupler, compress the release tabs squarely and draw it straight off the nipple; prying at an angle splits plastic that has grown brittle with age. Where varnish has bonded hose to barb, a gentle quarter turn twist usually frees it, and if it does not, slit the hose lengthwise and peel it away instead of levering on the fitting itself. Photograph the routing before the old piece is fully clear. This is a 4x4 chassis, so front differential and driveline hardware force a longer path with more clearance points and retaining clips than a two wheel drive layout requires.
Fitting the New Line and Sealing It
Cut the replacement to the same length as the original. Extra hose serves no purpose and eventually chafes on a frame edge or sags toward something that turns. Push each end fully onto its barb until it bottoms out, and install it dry. Grease, oil, and silicone spray must never touch a fuel fitting, because a lubricated sealing surface gives pressurized fuel a path to migrate out beneath the clamp. If an end resists, dip it in hot water for ten or fifteen seconds and it will slide on unaided.
Set fresh clamps just inboard of the raised bead on each fitting so they cannot walk off, and tighten them evenly rather than crushing the hose. A self-locking quick-connect needs no clamp at all: push until the collar clicks and then pull firmly to verify the latch engaged. Reinstall the hose in every original clip.
Proving It Dry and Finishing Up
Reinstall the fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off four or five times without cranking. Each cycle spins the pump and pressurizes the line while everything around it is clean and dry, which is the easiest condition in which to catch a weep. Study both joints, wipe them down, and check again. Start the engine and hold a clean white rag near each fitting for a minute or two at idle before the plastics and seat go back on.
One structural note to remember: on the injected Sportsman 570 the fuel filter is built into the in-tank pump assembly rather than sitting inline where you can reach it. Fresh hose does nothing for a restricted filter, so if the machine still behaves as though it is starving after a clean installation, that module inside the tank is the next thing to investigate.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Fuel Lines for a 2017 Polaris Sportsman 570 ATV.
Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2017 Polaris Sportsman 570 ATV.
Shop Petcocks for a 2017 Polaris Sportsman 570 ATV.
Shop Fuel Filters for a 2017 Polaris Sportsman 570 ATV.
Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2017 Polaris Sportsman 570 ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.