Replacing a Worn Fuel Line on the 2017 Honda TRX500 Rubicon 4x4 with Power Steering

Shop parts for a 2017 Honda TRX500 Rubicon 4X4 POWER STEERING (FM6) ATV.

A 2017 Rubicon FM6 will out–work most machines in the barn, and that reliability has a downside: nobody thinks to inspect the parts that never complain. Fuel line is at the top of that list. The hose feeding the 475cc single is fuel injected plumbing on this model, pressurized by an in–tank pump rather than trickling down from a gravity–fed petcock like a carbureted utility quad from the previous decade. Replacing it is well within reach for a home mechanic who preps properly.

Laying Out the Job Before the First Bolt

Give yourself an hour and a clear bench. You will want:

  • Fuel–injection rated hose in the stock inside diameter, cut a little long so you can trim to match
  • New clamps, and a quick–disconnect release tool if the tank end uses a locking coupler
  • Line–clamping pliers, which take the place of the fuel valve this PGM-FI machine does not have
  • Nitrile gloves, safety glasses, and a fistful of clean rags
  • A drain pan plus a sealed container approved for gasoline
  • A basic socket set and a sharp blade for cutting old hose free

Safety here is simple and non–negotiable. Gasoline vapors sink, spread along the floor, and reach ignition sources you forgot were running — water heaters, furnaces, and shop heaters especially. Work outdoors or with the overhead door fully raised, put away anything with a flame or a spark, and set an extinguisher beside you rather than across the shop. Wear the gloves; fuel pulls the oils straight out of your hands.

How the Hose Gets Old

Rubber fuel line degrades on two fronts at once. On the outside, the plasticizers that make the hose flexible slowly evaporate away over the years, and repeated heat cycling from the engine bay leaves the wall stiff enough to crack when it flexes. Riders in arid regions see this happen faster, since dry air and sunlight strip moisture from the rubber and hasten the hardening.

On the inside, ethanol–blended pump gas is the culprit. Left sitting in the line through a slow stretch of the calendar, that alcohol content pulls in moisture and slowly chews at the inner liner, sometimes leaving varnish or gum behind. The result is a hose that can look serviceable on the outside while flaking material toward the injector, which is exactly why a decade–old line deserves replacement on age alone.

What a Failing Line Looks and Smells Like

Give the fuel plumbing a genuine inspection twice a season. Warning signs include:

  • Fuel pooled on the skid plate or a wet stain on the floor where the Rubicon sits
  • A strong, lingering gasoline smell, often most noticeable right after shutdown while the system still holds pressure
  • Cracks, a hardened glassy texture, or a section swollen and mushy near a fitting
  • Grit stuck in a ring around a clamp, which means fuel has been seeping and drying there
  • An engine that bogs off idle, runs lean under load, or acts starved for fuel with plenty in the tank

Injected machines hide leaks better than carbureted ones. Pressurized fuel escaping a pinhole can mist and evaporate before a drop ever forms, so a smell you cannot trace to a puddle is still a real finding worth chasing down.

Dropping System Pressure and Freeing the Hose

Never open a PGM-FI line hot and pressurized. Pull the fuel pump fuse or relay, crank the engine until it dies on its own, shut the key off, and disconnect the negative battery terminal so nothing energizes the pump while you work. Take the seat and tank plastics off, then follow the hose visually from the tank outlet to the throttle body so you know every clip you will have to release.

Position the drain pan and keep a rag wrapped around each joint as it opens. Even after depressurizing, the hose is full of fuel. Slide clamps back before you disturb a barb. If the tank end uses a quick–connect, squeeze the tabs evenly and pull straight off — prying at an angle is what breaks brittle plastic collars. A hose glued to its fitting by old varnish responds better to a gentle twist than a hard pull, and when it truly will not budge, slice it lengthwise and peel it off the barb.

Front differential hardware and the extra frame structure that come with 4x4 and power steering give the hose a slightly busier path than a two–wheel–drive quad would have. Record the routing with your phone before the last retainer releases so the new line follows the same course.

Fitting the Replacement and Proving It Dry

Trim the new hose to the length of the old one. A line that is too long chafes on a frame tube or drifts toward hot exhaust, and one that is too short pulls on its fittings. Press each end onto its barb until it seats fully, dry and without any lubricant. Grease or silicone on a fuel fitting is a leak waiting to happen, since it gives pressurized fuel a lubricated path out from under the clamp. If the rubber fights you, soak the end in hot water briefly and try again.

Place fresh clamps just behind the bead on each fitting and tighten them until they are firm, not until they deform the hose. Where a self–locking quick–connect is used, listen for the click and confirm the latch with a firm tug — adding a clamp there does nothing useful. Reseat the hose in its factory clips so it stays clear of the driveline and the exhaust.

Put the pump fuse back, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off five or six times without cranking. Each cycle pressurizes the circuit, which is your best chance to spot a weeping joint while the surrounding area is still clean and dry. Then start the engine, let it idle, and re–inspect with a white rag pressed to each fitting. After a few minutes of clean idle and a slow loop around the property, look one final time before reinstalling the plastics. Worth noting as you finish: this Rubicon's fuel filter sits inside the tank as part of the pump assembly, not out on the visible line, so a fresh hose will not resolve a restriction hiding in that module.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Fuel Lines for a 2017 Honda TRX500 Rubicon 4X4 POWER STEERING (FM6) ATV.

Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2017 Honda TRX500 Rubicon 4X4 POWER STEERING (FM6) ATV.

Shop Petcocks for a 2017 Honda TRX500 Rubicon 4X4 POWER STEERING (FM6) ATV.

Shop Fuel Filters for a 2017 Honda TRX500 Rubicon 4X4 POWER STEERING (FM6) ATV.

Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2017 Honda TRX500 Rubicon 4X4 POWER STEERING (FM6) ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.