Fuel Line Renewal on the 2017 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 XT

Shop parts for a 2017 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 XT ATV.

Rubber fuel hose has a shelf life whether the machine gets used or not, and that is the single most useful thing to understand before tackling this repair on a 2017 Outlander MAX 570 XT. The Rotax 570 here is fuel-injected, fed by a pump module sitting inside the tank, so the line you are replacing carries pressurized fuel and there is no valve anywhere to shut it off.

The Three Things That Destroy Fuel Hose

Age comes first. The plasticizers that make new line pliable slowly work their way out of the rubber, and a hardened wall can no longer flex with the machine. From there, every warm-up cycle of the Rotax and every jolt through the frame on rough two-track turns that rigidity into hairline fractures at the bends.

Climate comes second. Dry, low-humidity air accelerates the whole process by drawing moisture out of the hose wall, hardening it from the outside inward. Owners in arid regions routinely find lines that look decades old on machines only a few seasons in.

Fuel chemistry is third. Ethanol-blended gasoline attracts water and gradually degrades the inner liner, softening it while the exterior grows brittle. A MAX 570 XT that sits between riding seasons with fuel standing in the line gets the worst of it, and whatever the liner sheds moves toward the injector the next time the pump builds pressure.

Establishing That This Is a Pressurized Circuit

This matters enough to state plainly. A carbureted quad gives you a petcock to close, a gravity feed to interrupt, and a float bowl you can drain. The 2017 MAX 570 XT gives you none of those. Fuel leaves the in-tank pump under pressure and travels straight to the throttle body, and the line stays pressurized after shutdown.

So you supply the shutoff with line-clamping pliers, you relieve pressure on purpose before opening a fitting, and you buy hose rated for injection pressure rather than low-pressure carburetor line, which will swell and eventually weep. The tank outlet may also use a self-locking quick-connect coupler, which requires a different removal technique and no clamp at reassembly.

Symptoms Worth Investigating

  • Fuel smell hanging around the seat area that does not clear, sharpest right after the engine stops
  • A puddle or wet streak beneath the machine after it has been parked overnight
  • Visible cracking, a chalky bloom, or a spot that stays rigid when squeezed
  • An engine that bogs under acceleration, feels lean, or acts starved with fuel still showing in the tank
  • Dirt caked into a dried fuel ring at a fitting, indicating a slow weep

Pressurized leaks often atomize before they drip, so treat an unexplained gasoline odor as real evidence rather than waiting for a puddle to appear underneath.

Supplies and a Straight Word About Gasoline

Gather the following in one place before you begin:

  • Rubber or nitrile gloves and safety glasses
  • Shallow drain pan and a sealed, fuel-rated container
  • Injection-rated replacement hose matching the original inside diameter
  • New clamps in the correct size, plus a quick-disconnect tool if a locking coupler is fitted
  • Line-clamping pliers to pinch off flow in place of a petcock
  • Razor or hose cutter, screwdriver, sockets for seat and panel hardware, rags

Take ventilation seriously. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air, meaning it settles and travels along the floor rather than rising out of a window. Work outdoors when you can, or open the overhead door completely so air crosses the floor. Extinguish pilot lights, switch off heaters, unplug battery chargers, keep an extinguisher within reach, and never start the job on a hot engine.

Taking the Old Line Off the Machine

Depressurize before anything else: pull the fuel pump fuse, crank the engine a couple of seconds until it stalls out, key off, then disconnect the battery negative. Remove the seat and the side bodywork covering the tank, and trace the hose from the pump outlet to the throttle body so nothing surprises you partway through.

Slip the pan underneath, cover the joint with a rag, and open the first fitting knowing that residual fuel will still come out. Slide existing clamps back along the hose first. Quick-connects release when you compress their tabs evenly and pull straight off — angled prying breaks aged plastic. Barbed fittings usually need a light twist to shear the varnish bond; if the hose is truly locked on, split it lengthwise with a blade and peel it away rather than levering on the fitting.

Note the routing as you go. The stretched MAX frame lengthens the run, the 4x4 driveline puts front differential hardware and extra crossmembers in the path, and the XT trim adds winch mounting and heavy bumper hardware up front. All of it argues for putting the new hose exactly where the old one lived.

Installation and the Leak Check That Ends the Job

Cut the new hose to the exact length of the piece you pulled. Long line chafes or snags on hardware; short line keeps constant tension on the fittings. Push each end on dry until it seats fully against the shoulder. Skip grease, oil, and silicone entirely — lubricant on a sealing surface is precisely how pressurized fuel finds a path out. Warm water softens a reluctant end enough to seat by hand.

Set the clamps just behind each fitting's raised bead and snug them evenly, firm but not cutting in. If a self-locking quick-connect is present, push until it clicks and pull hard to verify the lock, adding no clamp. Reinstall the hose in every original clip so it stays off the exhaust and away from the front driveline.

Then verify. Refit the pump fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the ignition on and off several times without cranking so the pump pressurizes the line while the area is dry. Look at both joints, wipe them clean, and look again. Fire the engine, inspect at idle, and inspect once more after several minutes of running. Only after all of that does the bodywork go back on.

Keep one limitation in mind. On this injected Outlander the fuel filter is part of the in-tank pump assembly rather than an inline element on the visible hose. A new line solves leaks and cracking, not restriction, so if the machine still hesitates after the swap, the module in the tank is the next place to look.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Fuel Lines for a 2017 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 XT ATV.

Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2017 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 XT ATV.

Shop Petcocks for a 2017 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 XT ATV.

Shop Fuel Filters for a 2017 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 XT ATV.

Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2017 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 XT ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.