Changing the Fuel Line on a 2017 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570
Shop parts for a 2017 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 ATV.
Newer does not mean immune. The 2017 Outlander MAX 570 uses a fuel-injected Rotax 570 V-twin fed by an in-tank pump, and while the machine may still feel current, the rubber in its fuel circuit has been heat cycling and soaking in ethanol-blended gasoline for years. Replacing that hose before it fails is straightforward work, provided you respect the fact that the line carries pressure and there is no petcock to shut off.
Getting the System Depressurized
Because the MAX 570 has no fuel valve, shutting off flow is an electrical operation. Pull the fuel pump fuse, then crank and run the engine until it stumbles and quits from starvation. Turn the key off and disconnect the negative battery terminal, which keeps the pump from energizing while your hands are in the fuel path.
Pressure being gone does not mean the hose is empty. Position a catch pan under the tank area and keep a rag over each fitting as you open it. If you want to isolate the hose without draining the tank, line-clamping pliers will pinch it closed without damaging the wall — regular pliers or locking grips will crush it and ruin the section.
What You Will Want on Hand
- Nitrile or rubber gloves plus eye protection
- Replacement hose rated for fuel-injection pressure in the correct inside diameter
- New clamps in the matching style, or a quick-disconnect release tool if the coupler at the tank is a locking type
- Line-clamping pliers, substituting for the petcock this model does not have
- A shallow catch pan and a sealed, fuel-rated container
- A razor blade, a small flat-blade screwdriver, sockets for the seat and panels, and a supply of rags
Take the ventilation piece seriously rather than treating it as fine print. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air, so it runs off the machine and settles into a layer at floor level right where you will be working. Roll the quad outdoors if you can, or open the shop up so air moves down low. Shut off furnaces and water heaters with standing pilots, keep sparking tools well away, and put a fire extinguisher beside the machine rather than on a far wall.
How Fuel Hose Deteriorates
Rubber fuel line relies on plasticizers to stay flexible, and heat drives them out. On the MAX 570 the hose runs near a hardworking V-twin, so it collects hundreds of heat cycles a season, and each one leaves the wall a little stiffer. A stiff hose splits where the chassis flexes on rough ground, and riders in dry, low-humidity regions get there sooner because arid air draws moisture out of the material from the outside.
Working from the inside, ethanol-blended fuel absorbs water and slowly attacks the inner liner whenever gas sits in the line for weeks at a time. That softens the liner and releases fine debris toward the injectors. A hose can be presentable on the outside and shedding material on the inside at the same time, which is the argument for replacing on age rather than waiting for evidence.
Symptoms That Point to the Line
- Fuel pooled or smeared beneath the machine after it has been parked
- A gasoline smell hanging around the tank, strongest in the minutes after shutdown
- Cracking, chalkiness, or a hardened section you can feel by pinching the hose
- A dirt ring built up at a fitting where fuel has repeatedly seeped and dried
- The V-twin bogging under load, running lean, or acting like it is nearly out of fuel
On a pressurized system, a small leak often mists and evaporates without leaving a drop, so a fuel odor with no puddle still warrants a full inspection.
Removal, Installation, and the Final Check
With the seat and side panels off, expose both ends of the run. Slide clamps well back along the hose before disturbing a joint. On a locking quick-connect, press the tabs squarely and pull the coupler straight off; angled prying cracks the plastic collar. Where the old hose has varnished to a barb, break the bond with a gentle twist, then slit it lengthwise and peel it away if it still holds. Note the routing as it comes free – this is a selectable 4x4, and the front differential hardware routes the supply line past extra clips and clearance points a two-wheel-drive machine does not need.
Cut the new hose to match the original length exactly. Extra hose finds a frame tube to rub or a steering component to touch. Seat each end fully onto its barb past the retention bead, and do it dry — grease, oil, and silicone all create a path for pressurized fuel to escape from under a clamp. Warm the hose end in hot water if it resists. Place new clamps just behind the bead and tighten evenly; a self-locking quick-connect takes no clamp, just a positive click and a confirming pull. Restore every original clip so the hose stays clear of exhaust and driveline.
Reinstall the fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off several times without cranking to pressurize the circuit. Inspect both joints dry, wiping each with a pale rag to reveal staining, then start the engine and look again at idle where vibration exposes marginal seals. After several minutes of clean running, put the bodywork back on. Keep in mind that the filter on this injected 570 is part of the in-tank pump assembly rather than an inline element, so persistent delivery trouble after a good hose install points inside the tank.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Fuel Lines for a 2017 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 ATV.
Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2017 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 ATV.
Shop Petcocks for a 2017 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 ATV.
Shop Fuel Filters for a 2017 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 ATV.
Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2017 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.