Fuel Hose Service for the 2016 Can-Am Renegade 850

Shop parts for a 2016 Can-Am Renegade 850 ATV.

Half of a clean fuel line replacement happens before a single fitting comes loose. Show up with the right hose, the right clamps, and a properly ventilated space, and the 2016 Renegade 850 gives up its fuel line without drama. Show up short a part with gasoline already draining into a pan, and the job turns into an afternoon.

Build Your Kit First

  • Nitrile or rubber gloves, because gasoline strips the oils from your skin and passes through it readily
  • A sealed fuel-rated container for anything you drain out of the system
  • Replacement hose in the correct inside diameter for the 850 and rated for injection pressure — ordinary low-pressure carburetor tubing is not a substitute
  • New clamps in the style already on the machine, plus a quick-disconnect release tool if the tank end uses a locking coupler
  • Line-clamping pliers, which take the place of the petcock this model does not have
  • Sockets and drivers for the seat and side panels, a small flat-blade screwdriver, a fresh razor blade, and more rags than you think you need

Set up outside or with the garage door raised completely. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air, so it settles and pools near the floor rather than drifting out a high window. Ventilation at ground level is the part that actually protects you. Clear the area of every ignition source, including shop heaters, appliance pilot lights, grinders, and hot incandescent work lamps.

Injection, Not Carburetion

The 2016 Renegade 850 runs the Rotax 850 V-twin with electronic fuel injection, and that shapes everything about the procedure. No petcock exists to shut off flow, because fuel is pushed out of the tank by an electric pump module mounted inside the tank rather than falling to a carburetor by gravity. The line stays pressurized after shutdown, so relieving pressure is the true first step of the job. The fuel filter rides inside that pump module as well, which means the hose you can see and touch contains no serviceable filter element.

The 850 is a 4x4 machine. That does not alter the fundamentals, but the hose run passes front differential hardware and additional frame structure, giving it a few more clips and clearance points than a two-wheel-drive quad requires. Take note of them on the way out.

What Kills Fuel Hose

Age is the primary enemy. Heat cycling from the V-twin steadily drives plasticizers out of the rubber compound until the hose is stiff instead of supple. A stiff hose cannot flex with the chassis, so vibration converts fine surface checking into cracks that eventually leak. Dry climates accelerate this, since low humidity draws moisture out of the hose wall and hardens it from the outside inward over successive seasons.

Ethanol-blended fuel attacks the other surface. E10 holds water in suspension, and a Renegade that sits for months with that fuel standing in the line gives the alcohol time to work on the inner liner while the volatile fractions evaporate and leave gum behind. The upshot is a hose hardening on one face and breaking down on the other, sometimes releasing fine debris toward the injectors before it ever visibly leaks.

Symptoms You Should Not Ignore

A wet stain or standing puddle beneath the tank area is the obvious one, but plenty of failing lines never drip. A persistent gasoline smell around a parked 850, strongest in the minutes just after you shut it off while the circuit is still pressurized, is often the earliest clue. Visually, look for a network of fine cracks, a chalky exterior, or a dust-caked ring at a fitting where seepage has dried and collected dirt. Squeeze the hose and note anywhere it feels hard and glassy rather than pliable.

Running symptoms round it out. A line that is collapsing internally or leaking under pressure produces bogging under load, hesitation on hard acceleration, and a general feeling that the engine is short on fuel at higher rpm. On an injected machine, a pressure-side pinhole often mists fuel that evaporates before it drips, so the absence of a puddle proves nothing.

Pulling the Old Line

Bleed pressure by removing the fuel pump fuse or relay and cranking the engine until it stalls. Switch the key off and disconnect the battery negative terminal before you go further. Take off the seat and any side plastics blocking access to the tank outlet, then follow the hose rearward to the throttle body connection.

Slide a drain pan under the joints and cover the first fitting with a rag as you open it, because the hose still holds standing fuel. Back clamps well down the hose before disturbing the connection. On a quick-connect coupler, press both tabs evenly and pull straight off; sideways prying cracks collars that have hardened with age. If varnish has bonded the hose to its barb, break the seal with a gentle twist, and if it still refuses, slit the hose lengthwise and peel it off rather than stressing the fitting. Photograph every clip and pass-through before the old hose is completely out.

Fitting the New Hose and Confirming the Seal

Trim the replacement to match the original length precisely. A hose cut long sags into the front driveline or rubs a frame edge until it wears through. Seat each end fully onto its barb and install it dry. Keep grease, oil, and silicone away from the fittings entirely, because a lubricant film on the sealing surface is exactly the escape route pressurized fuel needs. If a hose end is too stiff to seat, soften it for a moment in hot water instead.

Install new clamps just behind the raised bead on each barb and tighten them firmly without crushing the rubber. Where the tank connection is a self-locking quick-connect, push until the collar clicks and then tug to verify the latch caught — no clamp belongs there. Reseat the hose in every factory clip so it stays clear of the exhaust and the differential.

Finally, pressurize before you ride. Reinstall the pump fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off several times without cranking; each cycle runs the pump and lets you check dry fittings for weeping. Wipe both joints clean, start the engine, and inspect again at idle for several minutes. Shut it down, look one last time, then reinstall the bodywork. If fuel delivery problems continue after a clean hose replacement, turn your attention to the in-tank pump and filter module.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Fuel Lines for a 2016 Can-Am Renegade 850 ATV.

Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2016 Can-Am Renegade 850 ATV.

Shop Petcocks for a 2016 Can-Am Renegade 850 ATV.

Shop Fuel Filters for a 2016 Can-Am Renegade 850 ATV.

Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2016 Can-Am Renegade 850 ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.