How to Replace a Cracked Fuel Line on a 2016 Can-Am Renegade 1000R
Shop parts for a 2016 Can-Am Renegade 1000R ATV.
Rubber has a shelf life whether the machine gets ridden or not, and the fuel hose on a 2016 Renegade 1000R has been aging since the day it left the assembly line. That is the honest reason most owners end up doing this job: not a dramatic failure, just a hose that has quietly gone hard and started to weep. The 1000R runs the fuel-injected 976cc Rotax V-twin fed by an in-tank electric pump, so the line is pressurized and there is no petcock to close before you start pulling clamps.
The Slow Death of Fuel Hose
Two things are working against that hose at all times. The first is straightforward aging. Plasticizers give the rubber its flexibility, and they gradually migrate out of the material, a process the V-twin's heat accelerates. Once the hose has hardened, ordinary vibration from a sport quad on rough terrain opens hairline cracks in it, and those cracks show up at bends long before they appear on a straight section. Riders in dry, arid regions get there faster, because low humidity draws moisture out of the hose wall and stiffens it from the outside inward.
The second is what the hose carries. Ethanol-blended pump gas absorbs water and slowly breaks down the inner liner, softening it and leaving gum in its place. A 1000R that goes long stretches between rides with fuel sitting in the system gives that reaction a comfortable environment. Because the two mechanisms come from opposite surfaces, the hose can look serviceable while the interior is coming apart, so service life deserves as much weight as a visual check.
How a Bad Line Announces Itself
You are looking for a combination of garage evidence and riding behavior:
- Fuel puddling under the frame or dampening the skid plate after the quad has been sitting
- A gasoline smell that clings to the area around the tank, sharpest immediately after key-off while pressure remains
- Cracks, a chalky gray cast, or a stretch of hose that feels stiff and does not spring back when squeezed
- Bogging under load, a lean stumble at higher rpm, or the engine behaving as if it were nearly out of fuel
- Dirt caked in a ring around a fitting, which is dried residue from a slow, ongoing weep
Because the system is pressurized, a small leak often atomizes and evaporates rather than dripping, so a persistent odor with a clean floor underneath is still a legitimate finding worth chasing.
Laying Out the Job
Assemble the following before anything comes apart:
- Nitrile or rubber gloves
- A fuel-rated container and a wide drain pan
- Injection-rated replacement hose in the correct inside diameter; low-pressure carburetor line is not suitable on this circuit
- New clamps in the matching style, and a quick-disconnect release tool if the tank outlet uses a locking coupler
- Line-clamping pliers to pinch off a low-pressure section, since this machine has no shutoff valve
- Hand tools for the seat and plastics, a razor knife, and plenty of clean rags
Set up where the air actually moves. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air, so it sinks and pools at floor level instead of dispersing out an overhead window. Work outdoors or with the shop door open all the way, and get airflow down low. Unplug chargers, heaters, and power tools, kill any pilot light in the building, and keep an extinguisher at hand for the duration.
Bleeding the Circuit Down
Pull the fuel pump fuse or relay, then crank the engine briefly and let it stall as the residual pressure is used up. Switch the key off and disconnect the negative battery terminal so nothing can energize the pump mid-job. That leaves you with an unpressurized hose still holding a modest volume of fuel, which is why the pan goes underneath and a rag goes over the first fitting you open.
Extracting the Original
With the seat and side panels off, follow the run from the tank outlet to the throttle body and identify every clip holding it. Slide the clamps well back on the hose before you apply force anywhere. Spring clips squeeze open with pliers; worm-gear clamps loosen and slide clear. If a quick-connect coupler is used, press its release tabs evenly and pull the fitting straight off, because prying at an angle splits the aged plastic collar.
Rotate each hose end gently to break the varnish bond at the barb rather than pulling hard. When a hose has effectively glued itself on, slice it lengthwise with the razor and peel it away; the hose is disposable and the fitting is not. The 1000R is a selectable 4x4, so the line threads past front differential hardware and additional frame bracing that a two-wheel-drive machine would not have, and photographing the path now saves guesswork later.
Making the New Connection
Cut the replacement to the same length as the original. A long hose sags into the frame or against front drive components and abrades through, while a short one loads its fittings every time the engine shifts on its mounts. Push each end onto its barb until it bottoms out against the shoulder, and install it dry. Grease, oil, and silicone on a fuel fitting undo the seal the clamp is trying to make, giving pressurized fuel a path straight out, so keep lubricants away entirely. A quick dip in hot water softens a stubborn hose end enough to slide on.
Place the new clamps just behind the raised bead at each fitting and tighten them evenly, firm without digging into fresh rubber. A self-locking quick-connect requires no clamp at all: push it home until the collar clicks, then pull to confirm the latch has caught. Route the finished hose back through its original clips, keeping clearance from the exhaust and from anything that turns.
Leak Testing the Finished Job
Reinstall the pump fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off several times without cranking. The pump pressurizes the circuit on each cycle, letting you inspect both joints while the area is still dry and easy to read. Wipe them with a clean rag and watch for anything forming. Then start the engine and check again at idle, following the entire run with a light while heat and vibration are present. Several minutes of dry running and a short low-speed ride should precede reinstalling the bodywork.
Remember that the fuel filter on this injected 1000R is built into the in-tank pump assembly rather than sitting inline on the hose you just replaced. New line addresses the line only, so if the engine still acts fuel-starved after a careful installation, the in-tank module is the next thing to investigate.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Fuel Lines for a 2016 Can-Am Renegade 1000R ATV.
Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2016 Can-Am Renegade 1000R ATV.
Shop Petcocks for a 2016 Can-Am Renegade 1000R ATV.
Shop Fuel Filters for a 2016 Can-Am Renegade 1000R ATV.
Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2016 Can-Am Renegade 1000R ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.