Changing the Fuel Line on a 2016 Outlander MAX L570 DPS

Shop parts for a 2016 Can-Am Outlander MAX L570 DPS ATV.

Plan this repair around one fact and everything else falls into place: the 2016 Outlander MAX L570 DPS is fuel injected, not carbureted. Its 570cc Rotax V-twin draws from an electric pump mounted inside the tank, and the supply hose stays pressurized any time the ignition is live. A carbureted quad would offer a petcock and a simple gravity feed you could shut off with a thumb; this Outlander has no such valve, which is why pressure relief and a set of line-clamping pliers replace that step.

Confirming the Setup Under the Seat

Lift the seat and follow the hose from the tank flange toward the throttle body before ordering anything. You will find either reinforced hose secured by factory clamps or a plastic quick-connect coupler with squeeze tabs, and no shutoff valve at any point along the run. Note which style each end uses, because a quick-connect needs a release tool rather than a screwdriver. While you are looking, understand that the filter element on this injected L570 DPS sits inside the tank as part of the pump assembly rather than hanging inline where a carbureted machine would place it. Replacing hose will not address a restricted filter.

What Wears a Fuel Hose Out

Age, not use, is the driver. Repeated heat cycling from the V-twin gradually drives the flexible plasticizers out of the rubber wall, and over the better part of a decade the hose transitions from supple to stiff. Once it reaches that state, routine chassis flex starts opening fine cracks along its surface. Riders in dry regions see the process accelerate, since low humidity pulls the last moisture out of the rubber and hardens it from the outer skin inward.

Ethanol-blended gasoline handles the inside of the equation. The alcohol draws water out of the air and steadily breaks down the hose liner, leaving the bore soft and shedding material while the exterior turns brittle. Fuel that sits through a long off-season adds gum and varnish deposits on top of that. A hose in the middle of that cycle can still look acceptable while sending debris toward the injectors, so on a 2016 machine, treat calendar age as the deciding factor.

Clues That the Line Is the Problem

  • A damp patch or small puddle of gasoline on the skid plate or floor after the quad has been parked
  • A pronounced fuel odor around the seat area, sharpest in the first minute after shutdown
  • Fine surface cracking, a chalky texture, or a segment that feels rigid rather than springy
  • An engine that bogs on a hill, stumbles lean under sudden throttle, or feels starved with fuel still in the tank
  • A ring of caked dirt at a fitting, which builds up wherever fuel has been weeping and evaporating

Do not read a dry floor as reassurance. Pressurized fuel commonly atomizes and disappears before it can drip, so on an injected machine smell frequently arrives ahead of any visible evidence.

Preparation, Supplies, and Fuel Safety

Collect the following so no open fitting waits while you hunt for a part: rubber or nitrile gloves, a drain pan, a sealed fuel-rated container, replacement hose rated for injection pressure in the factory inside diameter, fresh clamps matched to the fittings, a quick-connect release tool if a locking coupler is fitted, line-clamping pliers, hand tools for the seat and side panels, a razor blade, a flashlight, and clean rags.

Give ventilation real weight. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air and flows down to settle at floor level, where a shop heater, a ground-level work light, or a charger can reach it. Open the overhead door completely or roll the machine outside, shut down anything with a flame or hot element low in the space, and keep a fire extinguisher within arm's reach rather than across the shop.

Removing the Old Line Cleanly

Pull the fuel pump fuse or relay, then crank the engine briefly and let it stall on residual fuel. That empties most of the pressure. Turn the key off and disconnect the battery negative. Remove the seat and whatever bodywork blocks access to both ends of the hose. Slide the pan beneath the work area and cover each joint with a rag as you open it, because a bled line still holds enough fuel to run down the frame rails.

Slide worm-gear or spring clamps well back before disturbing the joint. For a quick-connect, press both tabs evenly and pull straight along the fitting axis; levering an aged plastic collar sideways is how it breaks. If varnish has bonded the hose to a barb, twist gently to shear it loose, and if that fails, slit the hose lengthwise with a fresh blade and peel it away so the fitting takes no strain.

Clearance on the Stretched 4x4 Chassis

The MAX version of the L570 DPS carries a longer wheelbase and a correspondingly longer hose run than the single-seat model. It is also a selectable four-wheel-drive machine, so the front portion of the frame is occupied by differential and driveshaft hardware plus crossmembers a two-wheel-drive quad never has to route around. That adds guides and a few tight pass-throughs. Photograph every clip while the old hose is still captive so the replacement follows the same path and stays clear of driveline motion and exhaust heat.

Installation and Proving It Leak-Free

Cut the new hose to match the old one length for length. Excess slack rubs frame tubes or crowds the steering; too little pulls at both barbs whenever the suspension cycles. Push it fully onto each fitting until it seats against the shoulder, and install it dry. Grease, oil, penetrant, and silicone all stay away from fuel fittings, because anything on the sealing face becomes an escape path the instant the pump builds pressure. Warm the hose end briefly in hot water if it resists. Set new clamps just behind the raised bead on each barb and tighten them evenly instead of crushing one side. A self-locking quick-connect takes no clamp: press until it clicks, then pull to verify the latch caught.

Refit the fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off four or five times without cranking. Each cycle runs the pump and loads the hose while everything is still clean, which makes even slight seepage obvious. Inspect both connections with a light and a white rag, then start the V-twin and check again at idle with vibration present. Several minutes of dry running earns the plastics going back on.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Fuel Lines for a 2016 Can-Am Outlander MAX L570 DPS ATV.

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Shop Petcocks for a 2016 Can-Am Outlander MAX L570 DPS ATV.

Shop Fuel Filters for a 2016 Can-Am Outlander MAX L570 DPS ATV.

Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2016 Can-Am Outlander MAX L570 DPS ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.