Replacing the Fuel Line on a 2016 Outlander MAX 570 XT

Shop parts for a 2016 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 XT ATV.

A hose that has been carrying gasoline since 2016 has earned a hard look. On the Outlander MAX 570 XT the fuel line runs from an in-tank pump module to the throttle body, because the Rotax 570 in this machine is fuel-injected rather than carbureted. No petcock exists to shut off flow, the line holds pressure after the engine stops, and both facts change how the replacement is done.

Catching the Problem Before It Strands You

The tell-tale evidence usually shows up gradually. Any of these deserves attention:

  • A damp ring or small pool of fuel on the skid plate or garage floor after the XT has been sitting
  • Persistent gasoline odor around the seat and tank, strongest immediately after shutdown while pressure is still trapped
  • Hairline cracks, crazing, or a chalky surface where the hose bends around a frame member
  • A section that feels hard and unyielding when pinched instead of springing back
  • The engine bogging when you get on the throttle, running lean, or behaving as though the tank is nearly empty
  • Grit stuck in a dried fuel stain at either fitting, a hallmark of slow seepage

Because this is a pressurized system, escaping fuel frequently vaporizes before it can drip. A smell you cannot trace to a puddle is not a false alarm — it is a reason to pull the panels and look closely at both joints.

What Wears a Hose Out

Fuel line is soft when new thanks to plasticizers blended into the rubber, and those compounds gradually migrate out over years of service. As the wall stiffens, it stops absorbing movement, so the routine heat cycling of the Rotax and the flexing of the frame on rocky ground begin opening tiny splits. Riders in dry, low-humidity country reach this point faster, since arid air draws moisture from the hose and accelerates hardening from the outer surface in.

Ethanol-blended gasoline undermines the hose from within. Alcohol pulls water into the fuel and gradually breaks down the inner liner, so a line can be brittle outside while turning soft and gummy inside. A MAX 570 XT that spends long stretches parked with fuel in the system experiences both processes at once, and whatever the liner releases travels downstream toward the injector as soon as the pump runs.

Assembling Parts and Making the Area Safe

Have all of this staged before the first fastener comes out:

  • Nitrile or rubber gloves and eye protection
  • A drain pan plus a sealed container approved for gasoline
  • Replacement hose rated for injection pressure in the factory inside diameter, bought slightly long
  • New clamps sized to your fittings, and a quick-disconnect release tool if the tank outlet uses a locking coupler
  • Line-clamping pliers, standing in for the petcock this model does not have
  • Hose cutter or sharp blade, flat screwdriver, sockets for the seat and side panels, and a stack of rags

The gasoline itself is the real hazard here. Its vapor is heavier than air, so it drains downhill and collects near the floor where a high window offers no help at all. Work outside, or with the overhead door raised completely so air moves at ground level. Kill pilot lights and space heaters, unplug chargers, keep a fire extinguisher close, and let the engine cool fully before you begin.

Bleeding Pressure and Extracting the Old Line

Start by taking the pressure out. Pull the fuel pump fuse, crank the starter for a second or two until the engine dies, turn the key off, and disconnect the battery negative cable. On an injected Outlander this step is not optional — opening a live line puts fuel wherever it wants to go.

Remove the seat and enough bodywork to expose the tank outlet, then follow the hose forward so you understand the whole route before anything moves. Slide the pan underneath and drape a rag over the first fitting, since residual fuel remains even after depressurizing. Push old clamps well back along the hose before disturbing the connection.

A quick-connect coupler comes off by pressing its tabs squarely and pulling straight back; prying sideways snaps collars that have gone brittle with age. On a plain barb, twist the hose gently to break the varnish bond. When it refuses to let go, slit the old line lengthwise with a razor and peel it off rather than putting force on the fitting itself.

Routing Notes for the XT and the 4x4 Chassis

The MAX platform stretches the frame to accommodate a second seat, which makes the hose run longer and adds retaining clips along the way. Being 4x4, this Outlander also carries front differential hardware and additional frame crossmembers that the line has to clear, so the routing is slightly more involved than on a two-wheel-drive machine. The XT trim brings a winch and heavy-duty bumper with their own mounting and wiring near the front, giving you one more reason to keep the fuel hose exactly where it originally sat.

Photograph every clip, grommet, and clearance point before the old piece is fully out. Then cut the replacement to precisely the length you removed — extra hose chafes against frame tubes or gets caught on hardware, and a short piece pulls at both fittings whenever the chassis works.

Fitting, Sealing, and Confirming No Leaks

Slide each end of the new hose fully onto its barb until it bottoms out, and do it dry. Grease, oil, and silicone all defeat the seal by giving pressurized fuel a path to creep between hose and fitting, so keep every lubricant away from this job. If an end is too stiff to push on, dip it in hot water for a few seconds and it will slide home.

Position new clamps just behind the raised bead on each fitting and tighten them evenly — enough to hold pressure, not enough to bite into the rubber. Where the tank side uses a self-locking quick-connect, push until it clicks and then tug firmly to confirm the latch caught; that fitting takes no clamp. Return the hose to its original clips so it stays clear of exhaust heat and the front driveline.

Reinstall the pump fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off five or six times without cranking. Each cycle spins the pump and pressurizes the circuit, letting you spot a weep while the surrounding surfaces are still dry. Wipe both joints with a clean rag and inspect again, then start the 570 and check at idle and after a few minutes of warm running. Once everything stays dry, reinstall the panels & seat.

One more thing worth knowing about this fuel-injected Outlander: its filter is built into the in-tank pump assembly rather than sitting inline where you can see or change it. New hose fixes cracks and leaks, but it does nothing for a restricted filter, so persistent bogging after a clean install points at that module next.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Fuel Lines for a 2016 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 XT ATV.

Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2016 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 XT ATV.

Shop Petcocks for a 2016 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 XT ATV.

Shop Fuel Filters for a 2016 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 XT ATV.

Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2016 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 XT ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.