Fuel Line Replacement on a 2016 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 DPS

Shop parts for a 2016 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 DPS ATV.

Power steering makes the 2016 Outlander MAX 570 DPS pleasant to work all day, but the fuel plumbing underneath ages on the same schedule as any other machine. The Rotax 570 V-twin here is fuel injected with the pump mounted inside the tank, meaning the supply hose is pressurized and there is no fuel valve to close. That single fact reorders the whole job compared with older carbureted quads.

Deciding Whether the Line Needs Replacing

Get the seat and side panels off and put a bright light on the full run from tank outlet to throttle body. Squeeze the hose every few inches with a gloved hand. Good hose compresses and springs back; a length that feels like rigid tubing has lost its plasticizers and is finished regardless of whether a crack is visible yet.

Flex suspect areas gently and watch the surface for fine parallel checking that opens under the bend. Look for a chalky bloom, swelling near a fitting, and the ring of caked dirt that builds up where fuel weeps and dries. This is a two-up chassis with a longer hose run than a single-seat quad, so inspect the middle of the line at every clip rather than only checking the two ends.

Symptoms You Might Already Have Noticed

  • Fuel pooled or smeared beneath the tank area after the machine has been sitting
  • A gasoline smell that lingers, strongest in the minutes after you shut the key off
  • Cracking, glazing, or a hardened section along the hose
  • The V-twin bogging under load, running lean, or feeling starved when the tank is far from empty

Injected systems can leak without ever making a puddle, since pressurized fuel escaping a pinhole tends to atomize and evaporate. A fuel odor over clean concrete is still evidence worth acting on.

Why the Rubber Goes Bad

Heat drives the first half of the failure. Sitting near a working V-twin, the hose gives up its plasticizers over hundreds of heat cycles, and the wall stiffens progressively until it can no longer absorb the flex a utility frame delivers over rough terrain. Cracks then form at the surface and eventually reach through. Machines kept in dry, arid regions get there sooner, because low humidity pulls moisture out of the rubber from the outside.

Ethanol drives the other half. Alcohol in pump gas attracts water, and fuel left standing in the line during a slow stretch degrades the inner liner, softening it and releasing fine material downstream toward the injectors. Since that damage never shows on the outside, replacing on age is a defensible call on a machine of this vintage.

Tools, Supplies, and Handling Gasoline

Stage the following before you open a fitting: nitrile or rubber gloves, eye protection, injection-rated hose matched to the original inside diameter, new clamps of the correct style or a quick-connect release tool, line-clamping pliers to substitute for the petcock this machine does not have, a catch pan, a sealed fuel-rated container, a razor blade, sockets and drivers for the seat and panels, and rags.

The safety point is worth stating plainly. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air, so it flows down off the machine and settles into a layer across the shop floor exactly where you will be kneeling, and your nose adapts to it within minutes. Work outdoors if the weather cooperates, or open the shop enough that air genuinely moves at ground level. Shut off water heaters and furnaces with standing pilot flames, keep grinders and torches out of the building, and put a fire extinguisher beside the machine rather than on a wall across the room.

Taking It Apart

Relieve pressure first: pull the fuel pump fuse, run the engine until it starves and stops, key off, then disconnect the negative battery cable so the pump cannot cycle while you work. Position the catch pan and lay a rag over the first joint before opening it, since the hose still holds liquid fuel.

Slide clamps well back along the hose before disturbing a fitting. On a self-locking quick-connect, compress the tabs evenly and draw the coupler straight off — sideways leverage cracks aged plastic collars. Where dried varnish has bonded the hose to a barb, twist gently to break it, and if it holds, slit the hose lengthwise and peel it off rather than prying at the fitting.

Photograph the routing before the line is fully out. The MAX 570 DPS is a selectable 4x4, and the front differential and its associated hardware push the supply hose through a path with extra clips and clearance points a two-wheel-drive quad does not carry.

Fitting the New Line and Checking It

Cut the replacement to match the original length exactly, since surplus hose only finds a frame tube to rub or a steering component to touch. Push each end fully onto its barb until it seats past the raised bead, and assemble dry. Grease, oil, and silicone on a sealing surface give pressurized fuel a route out from under a clamp, so keep lubricant away entirely. Hot water on a tight hose end does the job safely.

Set new clamps just behind the bead and tighten evenly, snug rather than crushing. A self-locking quick-connect needs no clamp; push until the collar clicks and confirm with a firm tug. Return the hose to every original guide so it stays off the exhaust and clear of the driveline.

Reinstall the fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off several times without cranking so the pump builds pressure. Inspect both joints dry, wiping each with a pale rag and looking for staining. Start the engine and check again at idle, where vibration reveals seals that pass a static test. After several minutes of clean running, put the bodywork back on and look once more following a short ride. Remember that the filter on this injected model sits inside the tank with the pump, so lingering fuel delivery issues point there rather than at your new hose.

Related Shopping Categories

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Shop Fuel Filters for a 2016 Can-Am Outlander MAX 570 DPS ATV.

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.