Swapping the Fuel Supply Hose on a 2016 Can-Am Outlander L570 DPS
Shop parts for a 2016 Can-Am Outlander L570 DPS ATV.
Gather your parts before you touch a single fitting. That advice sounds obvious until you are kneeling beside an Outlander L570 with a disconnected hose dribbling onto the skid plate while you dig through a drawer for the right clamp. The 2016 L570 DPS runs a Rotax 570 V-twin with electronic fuel injection, so the plumbing you are about to open is a pressurized circuit fed by an electric pump inside the tank. There is no petcock lever to flip, and that single detail reshapes the whole job.
Assembling Parts and Tools First
Everything on this list earns its place. Skipping items is how a short repair turns into an evening:
- Nitrile gloves — gasoline pulls the natural oils straight out of skin
- An approved sealed container for whatever fuel you capture
- Replacement hose rated for injection pressure, matched to the original inside diameter rather than eyeballed
- Fresh clamps in the style your L570 actually uses, plus a quick-disconnect release tool in case the tank end wears a locking coupler
- Line-clamping pliers, since no fuel valve exists on this machine to stop flow for you
- Sockets and a trim tool for the seat, side panels, and rack hardware
- A stack of rags and a small flat-blade driver
Do the work outdoors or with the shop door fully open. Gasoline vapor sinks and gathers at floor level, so a cracked window well above your head does nothing useful. Keep heaters, grinders, and anything with a pilot light out of the space entirely, and set a fire extinguisher where you can reach it without standing up.
Why Rubber Stops Being Rubber
Fuel hose does not fail all at once. It cures. The plasticizers that keep the wall soft and elastic slowly migrate out, and a hose that once flexed under your thumb turns stiff and glassy. Every heat cycle from the 570 twin and every chassis flex over rocks and ruts drives that stiffness toward a crack. Riders in arid country watch it happen faster, because low humidity accelerates the drying of the outer wall from the surface inward.
Ethanol works the opposite direction. E10 pump gas left sitting through a quiet stretch draws in moisture and attacks the inner liner, softening it and shedding fine particulate downstream while the exterior keeps hardening. A hose can look entirely acceptable from the outside and still be feeding debris toward the injectors. On a machine of this age, calendar time counts as much as anything you can see.
Symptoms Worth Chasing Down
Most failing hose gives warning before it strands you. Look for:
- A damp patch or small puddle beneath the tank area after the L570 has been parked a while
- A gasoline odor that lingers around the machine, usually strongest just after shutdown while pressure remains in the circuit
- Visible surface checking, a chalky bloom, or a hard section you can feel by pinching along the hose length
- Bogging under load, hesitation when you open the throttle, or a lean stumble at higher rpm
- A dust-caked ring at a fitting, which marks a slow weep that has been drying and collecting grit
On an injected Outlander, a leak on the pressure side may atomize instead of dripping, so your nose often detects it before your eyes do. Treat a persistent fuel smell as a real finding rather than background noise.
Getting the Old Hose Out
Relieve pressure before anything else. Pull the fuel pump fuse, crank briefly until the engine stalls out, switch the key off, then disconnect the negative battery lead. Strip the seat and the side plastics so you can see the tank outlet and follow the run toward the throttle body. Slide a drain pan under the work area and drape a rag over the first joint you break, because a depressurized circuit still holds standing fuel that will run.
Where you find a worm-gear or spring clamp, walk it well back down the hose before you disturb the connection. A quick-connect coupler needs the locking tabs squeezed squarely and the fitting pulled straight off; prying sideways splits collars that have grown brittle. Rotate the old hose gently to break the varnish bond at the barb instead of hauling on it, and if it simply will not release, slit it lengthwise with a blade and peel it away rather than damaging the fitting underneath.
Record the routing while it is still in place. The L570 is a 4x4, so the hose passes front differential hardware and frame crossmembers that a two-wheel-drive quad does not carry. Photograph each retaining clip and clearance point before the old line comes free.
Fitting the New Line
Cut the replacement to the length of the old one and no longer. Excess hose chafes against the frame or fouls the steering sweep, and the DPS unit adds hardware in that area you do not want a loose loop resting on. Push each end fully onto its barb until it bottoms, and do it dry. No grease, no oil, no silicone paste — lubricant on a sealing face hands pressurized fuel an escape route. Softening the hose end in hot water for a moment makes it slide on without any of that.
Set new clamps just behind the raised bead on each fitting and tighten them evenly rather than crushing one side. If the tank end uses a self-locking quick-connect, push until you feel the collar click, then pull back firmly to confirm the latch caught; that joint wants no clamp at all. Return the hose to its original clips so it stays clear of the driveline and hot exhaust.
Confirming the Repair Holds
Reinstall the pump fuse and Reconnect the battery, then cycle the key on and off several times without cranking. Each cycle pressurizes the circuit and gives you a clean look at both joints while the surrounding area is still dry. Feel around every connection with a bare fingertip and a fresh rag, then start the engine and inspect again at idle with the plastics still off.
Worth knowing before you button up: the fuel filter on this injected Outlander sits inside the tank as part of the pump module rather than inline where you can reach it. New hose cures a leak, but it does nothing for a restricted filter. If the L570 still runs starved after a clean install, that in-tank assembly is your next stop.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Fuel Lines for a 2016 Can-Am Outlander L570 DPS ATV.
Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2016 Can-Am Outlander L570 DPS ATV.
Shop Petcocks for a 2016 Can-Am Outlander L570 DPS ATV.
Shop Fuel Filters for a 2016 Can-Am Outlander L570 DPS ATV.
Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2016 Can-Am Outlander L570 DPS ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.