Fuel Line Replacement on a 2016 Can-Am Outlander L 570
Shop parts for a 2016 Can-Am Outlander L570 ATV.
The Outlander L 570 sits at the value-minded end of the lineup, but its fuel system is thoroughly modern. The Rotax 570 V-twin in this 2016 machine is electronically fuel injected, drawing from an electric pump mounted inside the tank, and there is no petcock valve anywhere on the quad to shut off flow. That means the supply hose holds pressure whenever the key has been on, and knowing that before you loosen a fitting keeps this job clean and quick.
Confirming the System on This Machine
Lift the seat and remove the center console panel and the layout comes into view: the tank low in the frame, the pump flange on top of it, and a short run of semi-rigid hose heading forward to the throttle body. Follow that run with a flashlight and note the fitting style at each end. Some connections on this platform use a plain barb with a worm-gear or spring clamp, while others use a self-locking quick-connect coupler with plastic release tabs. Identifying which you have determines whether you need fresh clamps, a release tool, or both. The L 570 is a 4x4 machine with selectable drive, and the front differential and driveshaft hardware sit close enough that the hose follows a slightly tighter corridor than a two-wheel-drive quad would.
Why the Rubber Degrades Over Time
Fuel hose wears out from two directions simultaneously. On the outside, heat cycles from the 570 twin gradually drive plasticizers out of the rubber. The wall stiffens, loses its ability to flex with a chassis that twists over ruts and roots, and eventually develops fine cracks near the fittings where stress concentrates. Dry, low-humidity regions bring that day forward, because arid air pulls residual moisture out of the material and leaves an exterior that looks chalky and crazes when bent.
On the inside, ethanol-blended gasoline does the damage. Fuel standing in the line through a long inactive stretch absorbs atmospheric moisture and slowly breaks down the inner liner, softening it while the outer wall continues to harden. That combination produces a hose that appears serviceable while shedding fine material toward injectors with very small orifices. A carbureted quad would trap that debris in a float bowl fitted with a drain screw. There is no such catch on the L 570, which is a solid reason to replace hose based on age rather than waiting for a visible split.
Warning Signs to Watch For
- A wet patch or small pool of fuel on the skid plate after the machine has been parked
- A gasoline odor around the seat and console, strongest in the minutes right after shutdown
- Fine cracking, a chalky texture, or a hardened section you can feel when you pinch the hose
- A tacky, dirt-caked ring at one fitting where fuel has been weeping and evaporating
- Bogging under load, a stumble on hard acceleration, or a lean feel at sustained rpm
- Longer cranking than normal on a cold start, which suggests pressure escapes overnight
Because this system is pressurized, a genuine leak may never leave a puddle at all. Fuel forced through a hairline crack atomizes and evaporates, so a dry floor does not clear the hose. A strong smell paired with rough running is reason enough to replace it.
Tools, Parts, and Ventilation That Matters
- Replacement hose rated for fuel-injection pressure in the same inside diameter as the original
- New clamps matched to the fitting style, plus a quick-connect release tool if your L 570 uses locking collars
- Line-clamping pliers, which fill the role the missing petcock would have played
- Nitrile or rubber gloves, a wide drain pan, and a sealed container approved for gasoline
- A razor blade or hose cutter for square ends, a flat-blade screwdriver, and sockets for the seat and panels
- More rags than the job looks like it will need
Gasoline vapor is heavier than air, so it sinks and runs along the floor toward pilot lights, space heaters, and extension cord junctions sitting at that height. Work outdoors when the weather cooperates. In a garage, open the door completely and put a fan at floor level moving air out of the space, shut down every flame and hot element before you break a joint, and keep an extinguisher where you can grab it one handed. Gloves are worth wearing because gasoline absorbs through skin readily and carries additives along with it.
Relieving Pressure and Removing the Old Line
Pull the fuel pump fuse from the fuse block, then crank the engine until it stalls and will not restart. Turn the key off and disconnect the battery negative cable so nothing can energize the pump or arc while a fitting is open. Slide the drain pan under the tank area and drape a rag over the joint you plan to break first, because a bled circuit still holds standing fuel that will run out.
Move any clamp well back along the hose before you disturb the fitting. Quick-connect couplers release by pressing the locking tabs evenly and pulling straight along the fitting axis, never by levering to one side, since aged plastic collars crack under that kind of load. A hose that has varnished onto its barb geneRally lets go under a slow twist, and if it fights you, slit it lengthwise with a razor and peel it away rather than damaging the fitting underneath. Note each retaining clip and clearance point as the line comes free, particularly where it passes near the front driveline hardware on this 4x4 chassis.
Installing the New Hose and Checking for Leaks
Trim the replacement to match the original length exactly. Excess hose sags toward moving hardware or chafes on a frame tube, while a short piece keeps both fittings under permanent tension. Press the new line onto each barb until it seats fully against the shoulder, and install it dry. Grease, oil, and silicone spray have no place on a fuel fitting; lubricant on the sealing surface gives pressurized fuel a route to escape and lets the hose creep off the barb over time. Dip a stiff end in hot water for thirty seconds to soften it enough to push on.
Set clamps immediately behind the raised bead on each fitting so they cannot walk off, and tighten to firm contact rather than crushing the rubber. Where the L 570 uses a self-locking quick-connect, push until the collar clicks and then pull firmly to confirm the latch has caught; that connection is complete without a clamp. Reinstall the hose through every factory guide so it stays clear of exhaust heat and the front differential area.
Close the job out by reinstalling the pump fuse, Reconnecting the battery, and cycling the key on and off five or six times without cranking. Each cycle primes the pump and brings the hose to full pressure while both fittings are still dry, which is the best opportunity to spot a seep. Wipe each connection with a clean white rag and study it, then start the engine, inspect again at idle, take a slow lap of the driveway, and look one final time before the panels go back on. Keep in mind as well that the fuel filter on this Outlander is built into the in-tank pump assembly rather than sitting inline on the hose you just replaced, so if the 570 still feels starved under load after a clean installation, that module inside the tank is the next place to look.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Fuel Lines for a 2016 Can-Am Outlander L570 ATV.
Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2016 Can-Am Outlander L570 ATV.
Shop Petcocks for a 2016 Can-Am Outlander L570 ATV.
Shop Fuel Filters for a 2016 Can-Am Outlander L570 ATV.
Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2016 Can-Am Outlander L570 ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.