Replacing the Fuel Line on a 2015 Sportsman Touring 570 SP
Shop parts for a 2015 Polaris Sportsman Touring 570 SP ATV.
Ten seasons of heat cycles and trail vibration take a measurable toll on rubber, which is why fuel hose belongs on the inspection list of any 2015 Sportsman Touring 570 SP. The good news is that replacing it is a straightforward home job. The important detail up front is the fuel system itself: this machine's ProStar 570 single is electronically fuel injected, so a pump inside the tank keeps the supply line pressurized and there is no petcock anywhere to shut off flow.
Working the Old Hose Free
Because there is no fuel valve, pressure must be relieved on purpose. Pull the fuel pump fuse, crank the starter until the engine coughs and dies, turn the key off, and disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the seat and the side plastics blocking the tank outlet and the hose run forward to the throttle body.
Slide a drain pan underneath and keep a rag over the fitting you are opening, since a depressurized line still holds fuel. Push worm-gear or spring clamps well back along the hose before you move the hose on its barb. If your SP uses a locking quick-connect at the tank, press the release tabs squarely and pull straight off; a decade of heat makes those plastic collars brittle, and levering one sideways breaks it. Twist gently at each fitting to break the gum bond rather than pulling hard, and if the hose has fused itself on, slit it lengthwise with a razor and peel it away. The fitting is worth protecting; the hose is going in the trash regardless.
Study the routing before the old line is entirely out. This is a two-up chassis with a stretched wheelbase and On-Demand AWD hardware forward, so the hose passes more brackets and clearance points than a compact 2WD quad does. Photograph every clip.
Why the Rubber Failed
Fuel hose stays pliable thanks to plasticizers mixed into the compound, and heat cycling next to a working engine bakes them out over the years. As the wall hardens it stops flexing with the frame, and a long Touring chassis working across rough ground supplies plenty of vibration to open hairline splits, typically at bends and under clamps that have squeezed the same band of material since the machine was new.
Ethanol-blended gasoline attacks from inside. E10 draws in atmospheric moisture and gradually degrades the hose's inner liner, so a Sportsman that has spent idle months with fuel in the system can be soft and shedding internally while the outside still looks acceptable. Riders in dry regions get the harsher version of the external hardening, since low humidity keeps pulling moisture out of the rubber.
Symptoms to Watch For
- A puddle or damp patch beneath the machine after it has been parked
- Gasoline smell lingering around the tank, strongest right after shutdown
- Visible crazing, chalky texture, or a rigid section you find by pinching the hose
- A dark, dirt-packed ring at a fitting where fuel has seeped and dried
- Bogging under load, hesitation on hard throttle, or lean surging at cruise
On an injected machine, do not treat a dry floor as proof. Fuel escaping a pinhole under pressure often mists off and evaporates, which is why smell frequently shows up long before any visible leak.
Tools and Handling Fuel Safely
- Rubber or nitrile gloves
- A drain pan and a sealed, fuel-rated container
- Replacement hose in the original inside diameter, rated for injection pressure
- Fresh clamps sized to your fittings, or a clamp assortment
- Line-clamping pliers, taking the place of the petcock this model lacks
- Razor knife, rags, a small flat screwdriver, and sockets for the seat and panels
Gasoline vapor is heavier than air and settles at floor level, which is exactly where an ignition source usually is. Work outside or with the overhead door fully open, pull flame-burning heaters out of the space, skip grinding and welding until the job is done, and keep an extinguisher within reach.
Fitting the New Line
Cut the replacement to match the original length precisely. Too long and it chafes a frame tube or drapes toward the exhaust; too short and both fittings live under tension. Push each end fully onto its barb until it bottoms against the shoulder, working dry. Do not use grease, oil, or silicone anywhere on the fittings — lubricant on the sealing face is exactly how pressurized fuel escapes past a clamp. If the hose resists, dip the end in hot water for a few seconds to soften it.
Set new clamps just behind the raised bead on each fitting and snug them evenly without biting into the rubber. A self-locking quick-connect pushes home until it clicks and needs no clamp; verify the latch with a firm tug. Route the hose back through every original clip so it stays clear of the front driveline and hot exhaust surfaces.
Confirming It Is Tight
Reinstall the fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off five or six times without cranking. Each cycle runs the pump and pressurizes the line, giving you the chance to inspect dry joints under real working pressure. Wipe both connections with a clean rag and look for beading or dampness. Start the engine, hold it at idle for several minutes, and check again as heat builds, swinging the bars lock to lock to load the routing.
Only after several minutes of leak-free running should the plastics go back on. And keep this in mind: the filter on the injected 570 is part of the in-tank pump assembly rather than an inline piece you can change on the visible hose, so if the machine still feels starved after a clean install, that module is the next place to look.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Fuel Lines for a 2015 Polaris Sportsman Touring 570 SP ATV.
Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2015 Polaris Sportsman Touring 570 SP ATV.
Shop Petcocks for a 2015 Polaris Sportsman Touring 570 SP ATV.
Shop Fuel Filters for a 2015 Polaris Sportsman Touring 570 SP ATV.
Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2015 Polaris Sportsman Touring 570 SP ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.