Fuel Line Renewal on a 2015 Polaris Sportsman 570 SP
Shop parts for a 2015 Polaris Sportsman 570 SP ATV.
A decade is a long time for a piece of rubber to sit full of gasoline. If your 2015 Polaris Sportsman 570 SP still wears its original fuel line, that hose has been through ten summers of heat cycling, ten winters of temperature swings, and however many tanks of ethanol-blended pump gas you have run through it. Age alone is reason enough to look closely, regardless of how the outside appears.
Ten Years of Wear on One Hose
Two processes have been working on that line the whole time. From the outside, heat off the ProStar 567cc single plus ordinary weather exposure gradually drives out the plasticizers that keep rubber flexible. What began as a soft, compliant tube turns stiff and eventually glassy, at which point it can no longer absorb the vibration a big single feeds into the chassis. Cracks open where the hose bends and where it slides onto a barb. Dry, low-humidity climates accelerate the whole thing, because arid air pulls moisture out of the hose wall and hardens it from the surface inward.
From the inside, ethanol in modern pump gasoline attracts atmospheric water and slowly degrades the inner liner, leaving gum behind and softening the material. Stretches where the machine sits with fuel standing in the line push that along. On a ten-year-old hose the two effects have had plenty of time to meet in the middle, which is why a line that looks acceptable can still be shedding material or ready to weep at a fitting.
Confirming the Fuel System on This SP
The 2015 Sportsman 570 SP is electronically fuel injected. There is no petcock beneath the tank, no valve to close, and no gravity feed to interrupt. A pump inside the tank pressurizes the supply hose, and that pressure remains after the key is off. Two adjustments to your plan follow: relieve pressure deliberately before opening any fitting, and bring line-clamping pliers to serve as the shutoff valve the machine does not have. Fitting hardware also reflects the injected design, with a conventional clamp usually at the throttle body and possibly a self-locking quick-connect coupler at the pump flange that requires no clamp.
What a Tired Line Tells You
- Gasoline smell around the seat and tank, sharpest in the first minutes after shutdown
- A damp patch or puddle beneath the mid-chassis after an overnight sit
- Fine crazing, a chalky gray bloom, or a hose section that feels rigid rather than rubbery
- Bogging under load, stumbling as you roll into the throttle, or the engine acting starved with plenty of fuel showing
- Dirt caked in a ring at a fitting, left by fuel that has seeped and dried repeatedly
On a pressurized system, escaping fuel can atomize and evaporate before it drips, so a recurring smell with no stain underneath is still meaningful evidence.
Tools and a Word About Ventilation
Have this ready before you start: nitrile gloves and eye protection, a drain pan, a sealed fuel-rated container, replacement hose in the correct inside diameter rated for injection pressure, fresh clamps, a quick-disconnect release tool, line-clamping pliers, a socket set, a small flat blade, a razor knife, and clean rags.
Ventilation is the part of this job most often shortchanged. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air, so it settles and creeps along the floor toward whatever ignition source is sitting at that level — a water heater pilot, a shop furnace, a hot work lamp lying on the concrete. Work outside or with the door open all the way, shut those sources down, and keep gloves on throughout, because gasoline pulls the oils right out of your skin.
Removing the Original Hose
Relieve pressure before touching a fitting. Pull the fuel pump fuse or relay, crank the engine for several seconds until it stalls or refuses to fire, turn the key off, then disconnect the negative battery cable. Take off the seat and the side panels that cover the tank and the hose run heading forward to the throttle body.
Slide the drain pan into place and drape a rag over the first joint you separate, since the hose is still full even with pressure gone. Work any existing clamp well back along the hose first. A locking quick-connect releases when its tabs are pressed evenly and the coupler is pulled straight off the port; prying to one side snaps a collar that has spent ten years getting brittle. On barbed fittings, twist gently to break the varnish bond rather than pulling hard. A decade-old hose that will not release should be slit lengthwise with a razor and peeled away, which protects the barb underneath.
Note the routing carefully. As a 4x4, this Sportsman runs its line past front differential hardware and through frame clearance points a two-wheel-drive machine does not have, held by clips along the way. Photograph the path before the old hose is fully clear, because ten-year-old clips are easy to overlook and easy to miss on reassembly.
Installation, Testing, and Finishing Up
Cut the new hose to match the old length exactly. Extra length is not helpful; it gives the hose room to chafe on the frame or drift toward hot exhaust. Push each end fully onto its barb until it seats against the shoulder, and install it dry. Grease, oil, and silicone spray must stay away from every fuel fitting, because lubricant on the sealing face is the most common reason a properly tightened clamp still weeps under pressure. Dip a stubborn end in hot water for thirty seconds instead.
Position new clamps just behind the raised bead on each fitting and tighten them evenly rather than crushing one side. Self-locking quick-connects click when they seat; verify the latch with a firm pull and add no clamp. Reinstall the hose into every original retainer so it stays clear of the front driveline and heat.
Put the fuse or relay back, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the ignition on and off five or six times without cranking. Each cycle runs the pump and pressurizes the line, letting you check both joints while the surrounding area is dry. Wipe each with a clean rag and look for transfer. Then start the engine, idle it several minutes, and inspect again under full running pressure before the panels and seat go back on.
Worth remembering on a machine this age: the fuel filter is part of the in-tank pump module rather than an inline unit on the hose. New line fixes a cracked line. If the SP still bogs or starves after a leak-free install, ten years of debris in that in-tank assembly is a reasonable next suspect.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Fuel Lines for a 2015 Polaris Sportsman 570 SP ATV.
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Shop Petcocks for a 2015 Polaris Sportsman 570 SP ATV.
Shop Fuel Filters for a 2015 Polaris Sportsman 570 SP ATV.
Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2015 Polaris Sportsman 570 SP ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.