A Practical Fuel Line Swap on the 2015 Can-Am Outlander 800R

Shop parts for a 2015 Can-Am Outlander 800R ATV.

Gather Everything Before the First Fitting Comes Loose

The difference between a clean fuel line job on a 2015 Outlander 800R and a mess on the garage floor comes down to preparation. Once a joint is open you should have both hands on the machine and nothing left to fetch. Put this pile together first:

  • Nitrile or rubber gloves, since gasoline strips the oils out of skin within seconds
  • A shallow drain pan and an approved fuel container to receive whatever comes out of the line
  • Replacement hose rated for fuel-injection pressure and matched to the original inside diameter
  • New clamps in the correct style for the fittings on your machine, plus a quick-disconnect release tool if the tank end carries a locking coupler
  • Line-clamping pliers, which take over the job a petcock would handle on an older carbureted quad
  • Sockets and drivers for the seat and body panels, a fresh razor blade, and far more clean rags than seem necessary

Then deal with the space itself, because this part actually matters. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air and settles toward the floor, which is precisely where your head goes when you reach beneath the tank. Ventilation at ankle level is what protects you, not a window cracked above the bench. Roll the machine outside if the weather cooperates, or open the overhead door completely and set a fan moving air low across the concrete. Get pilot lights, space heaters, grinders, and hot incandescent work lamps out of the area, and keep a fire extinguisher within reach of where you will be kneeling rather than across the shop.

This One Runs Injection

The 2015 Outlander 800R carries the 800R Rotax V-twin with electronic fuel injection. That means there is no petcock under the tank to close, an electric pump module inside the tank supplies the throttle bodies, and the hose between them holds pressure well after you shut the engine off. Everything about the removal sequence follows from that. You bleed the circuit down intentionally, and you buy hose rated for injection pressure rather than the soft low-pressure line that works on a gravity-fed carburetor.

It is also a 4x4 with selectable two-wheel drive. That does not alter the technique, but the front differential and the frame structure supporting it consume space ahead of the engine, so the hose route threads through more clips and clearance points than a two-wheel-drive machine needs. Learn the path before you pull it apart.

The Chemistry and Physics of a Dying Hose

Fuel line degrades on a clock rather than an hour meter. The plasticizers that keep the rubber pliable gradually migrate out of the wall, and heat coming off the V-twin accelerates that departure. Once the wall goes stiff, vibration from real trail use converts rigidity into visible cracking. Dry climates make it worse in a measurable way, because low ambient humidity draws moisture out of the rubber and hardens it from the outside inward.

The inside of the hose faces a different attacker. Ethanol-blended pump gas pulls water into the fuel system and slowly breaks down the liner, and any stretch where the Outlander sat unused with fuel in it adds gumming and internal softening. A hose can therefore be brittle on the exterior and crumbling on the interior at the same time, which explains how a line that looks fine still manages to send debris toward the injectors.

Warning Signs on the Trail and in the Garage

  • Fuel pooled on the skid plate or dripping to the floor after the machine has been parked a while
  • A gasoline smell around the tank that peaks in the first several minutes after shutdown
  • Hairline cracking, a chalky gray surface, or a section that feels glassy and hard when squeezed
  • The engine bogging as the throttle opens, stumbling lean on a climb, or acting starved for fuel with a full tank
  • Dirt packed into a ring at a fitting where fuel has seeped and dried again and again

Injected machines make small leaks harder to see. Fuel escaping under pressure often atomizes and evaporates before it can drip, so the absence of a puddle proves nothing at all. An unexplained fuel odor is reason enough to pull the panels and look closely.

Taking the Old Hose Out

Relieve pressure to start. Remove the fuel pump fuse, crank the engine for a second or two until it stalls or will not fire, switch the key off, then disconnect the negative battery cable. Take off the seat and side plastics so both the tank and the hose running back toward the throttle bodies are open to view.

Slide the pan into position and drape a rag over the first fitting you break, because residual fuel remains in the hose no matter how well you depressurized it. Push worm-gear or spring clamps well clear of the joint before disturbing it. Quick-connect couplers release by pressing the locking tabs squarely and pulling straight off, never by levering sideways, which cracks collars that have aged and grown brittle. If varnish has bonded the hose to a barb, twist gently rather than hauling on it, and if that fails, slit the hose lengthwise with a blade and peel it off to protect the fitting. Photograph the routing and every retainer before the last clip releases, especially where the line passes near front driveline hardware.

Installation and the Final Leak Check

Cut the new hose to match the original exactly. Surplus length rubs a frame tube or drifts toward hot exhaust, and neither serves any purpose. Push each end fully home on its barb, installed dry. Grease, oil, and silicone spray all give pressurized fuel a channel past the sealing surface, so keep every lubricant away from the fittings. Dipping a stubborn hose end in hot water for a few seconds is all the help you should need.

Set fresh clamps just behind the raised bead on each fitting and tighten them evenly, snug without cutting into the rubber. If the tank side uses a self-locking quick-connect, push until it clicks and then tug firmly to confirm the latch engaged. That fitting takes no clamp. Route the hose back through every factory clip so it stays clear of moving driveline parts and heat.

Reinstall the fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off five or six times without cranking. Each cycle pressurizes the circuit while the joints are dry, giving you the clearest possible view of a developing weep. Check both connections with a light and a bare fingertip, then start the engine and repeat the inspection at idle before the plastics go back on. One last platform note: the fuel filter on the injected 800R lives inside the tank as part of the pump assembly rather than inline where you can service it, so if fuel delivery still feels soft after a leak-free installation, that module is what to examine next.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Fuel Lines for a 2015 Can-Am Outlander 800R ATV.

Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2015 Can-Am Outlander 800R ATV.

Shop Petcocks for a 2015 Can-Am Outlander 800R ATV.

Shop Fuel Filters for a 2015 Can-Am Outlander 800R ATV.

Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2015 Can-Am Outlander 800R ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.