Fuel Line Replacement on the 2014 Can-Am Renegade 800R X XC

Shop parts for a 2014 Can-Am Renegade 800R X XC ATV.

Fuel hose is one of the cheapest parts on a Renegade and one of the most capable of ending a ride early. On the 2014 Renegade 800R X XC, the hose that carries gasoline from the tank to the throttle body sits in a hot, vibration-heavy pocket of the chassis, and it ages whether the machine is ridden hard or parked all season. Replacing it is well within reach for an owner with intermediate wrenching skills, provided you understand what kind of fuel system you are opening up before you loosen anything.

Know the System Before You Touch It

The 800R X XC runs the Rotax 800R V-twin with electronic fuel injection. That detail drives the entire job. There is no petcock beneath the tank to rotate closed, because an injected Rotax feeds its injectors from an electric pump module that lives inside the fuel tank. The circuit holds pressure even after shutdown, sometimes for hours, so the first physical step of this repair is bleeding that pressure off rather than pulling a clamp. The pump module also carries the fuel filter internally, which is worth knowing up front — you will not find a serviceable inline filter spliced into the visible hose the way you would on an older carbureted quad.

The XC is a 4x4 machine, and the front driveline hardware matters here in a practical way. The hose run threads past differential mounting points and extra frame structure that a two-wheel-drive quad simply does not carry, so the routing has more clips and clearance points than you might expect for such a short piece of rubber.

Why the Rubber Eventually Quits

Fuel hose fails from the inside and the outside at the same time. Externally, years of heat cycling drive the plasticizers out of the rubber. The hose stiffens, loses its ability to flex with the chassis, and develops fine surface checking that eventually becomes a real crack. Owners in dry, low-humidity regions watch this happen faster, since arid air steadily draws moisture out of the hose wall and hardens it from the surface inward.

Internally, ethanol-blended pump gas does the damage. E10 pulls water vapor out of the air and holds it in suspension, and when a Renegade sits for a few months with that mix standing in the line, the alcohol works on the inner liner while the lighter fuel components evaporate and leave gum behind. The result is a hose that may look fine but is softening internally and shedding fine debris toward the injectors. On a machine of this vintage, calendar age alone is reason enough to replace the line during any other tank-off service.

What a Failing Line Looks and Smells Like

  • A damp patch or small puddle on the skid plate or garage floor beneath the tank area
  • Persistent gasoline odor around the machine, often strongest in the minutes right after shutdown while the circuit is still pressurized
  • Visible cracking, a chalky surface, or a section that feels rigid and glassy when you squeeze it
  • A dust-caked ring at a fitting, which is dried seepage that has collected trail dirt
  • The engine stumbling under load, hesitating on hard throttle, or behaving like it is starving for fuel at higher rpm

Injected machines complicate the puddle test. A pinhole on the pressure side often atomizes fuel into a fine mist that evaporates before it can drip, so a strong smell with no visible wet spot still deserves a close inspection with a flashlight.

Gathering Supplies and Setting Up Safely

  • Nitrile or rubber gloves – gasoline strips skin oils fast and carries readily through bare hands
  • A sealed metal or fuel-rated plastic container for captured gas
  • Replacement hose rated for injection pressure in the correct inside diameter for the 800R, not general purpose carburetor tubing
  • Fresh clamps matched to the style already on the machine, plus a quick-disconnect release tool if the tank end uses a locking coupler
  • Line-clamping pliers, which stand in for the petcock this machine does not have
  • Basic sockets and drivers for the seat, side panels, and any tank hardware, along with a generous stack of shop rags

Do this job outside or with the garage wide open at ground level. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air and settles low, so a cracked window above your head does nothing useful. Keep every ignition source out of the area, including shop heaters, grinders, and the trouble light with a hot bulb.

Bleeding Pressure and Removing the Old Hose

Pull the fuel pump fuse or relay, then crank the engine until it stalls to burn off residual pressure. Turn the key off and disconnect the battery negative terminal before going further. Remove the seat and the side plastics needed to expose the tank and the hose run heading rearward toward the throttle body.

Slide a drain pan under the work area and drape a rag over the first fitting you open, because even a depressurized line holds standing fuel. Back a worm-gear or spring clamp well down the hose before disturbing the joint. For a quick-connect coupler, press the locking tabs squarely and pull straight back — prying at an angle cracks collars that have grown brittle over a decade. If varnish has bonded the hose to a barb, twist gently to break the seal, and if it still resists, slit the old hose lengthwise with a razor and peel it off rather than risking damage to the fitting. Photograph each clip and pass-through before the hose is fully out.

Fitting the New Line

Cut the replacement to match the length of the original exactly. Extra length is not insurance; it lets the hose sag into the front driveline or rub a frame edge. Push each end fully onto its barb until it bottoms out, and install it dry. Grease, oil, and silicone all belong nowhere near a fuel fitting, since any film on the sealing surface gives pressurized gasoline a path to creep past the barb. If the hose feels stiff, dip the end briefly in hot water to soften it enough to slide home.

Set new clamps just behind the raised bead on each fitting and tighten them evenly without crushing the rubber. Where the tank side uses a self-locking quick-connect, push until you hear the collar click, then pull firmly to confirm the latch engaged — that joint needs no clamp at all. Return the hose to every original clip so it stays clear of the exhaust and the front differential area.

Verifying the Repair

Reinstall the pump fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off several times without starting the engine. Each cycle runs the pump and pressurizes the circuit, giving you a chance to inspect both connections while everything is still dry and easy to read. Wipe the fittings clean, then start the 800R and check again at idle, looking for any bead of fuel forming at the barbs. Let it run several minutes, shut it down, and inspect once more before the plastics go back on. If the machine still shows fuel delivery trouble after a clean install, look next at the in-tank pump and filter assembly, since a fresh hose cannot cure a clogged strainer.

Related Shopping Categories

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Shop Fuel Filters for a 2014 Can-Am Renegade 800R X XC ATV.

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.