Installing a Fresh Fuel Line on a 2014 Can-Am Renegade 800R

Shop parts for a 2014 Can-Am Renegade 800R ATV.

Rubber is a consumable, even when it never touches the ground. The fuel hose on a 2014 Renegade 800R has a service life measured in years, and once it passes that point replacement is simply due. Before you start, be clear on the system: this Rotax V–twin quad is fuel injected, the pump is mounted inside the fuel tank, the supply hose is pressurized whenever the key is on, and there is no petcock anywhere to shut off flow.

What Actually Ruins Fuel Hose

Three things work on the hose at once. First, simple aging: the plasticizers that make the compound flexible slowly migrate out, and what began as soft, pliable rubber becomes stiff and eventually glassy. A stiff hose cannot absorb vibration, so it starts cracking, usually at the clamped ends where heat off the V–twin and chassis flex both concentrate.

Second, climate. In dry, arid regions the hose wall gives up its residual moisture faster, which hardens it from the outside in and produces a chalky surface with hairline fissures well ahead of schedule. Third, fuel chemistry. Ethanol–blended pump gasoline draws in moisture and chemically softens the inner liner, leaving gum and varnish behind as it stales, and that is worst when the Renegade sits for months at a time with old fuel still in the line. A hose attacked from both sides can pass a casual glance while quietly shedding material toward the injectors.

Catching It Before You Are Stranded

Symptoms usually arrive gradually. A gasoline smell that lingers around the tank, sharpest in the first minute after shutdown while pressure remains in the circuit, is often the earliest clue. Look next for fuel wetness or a small puddle on the skid plate after the quad has been parked, and for a ring of caked dirt at either fitting where seepage has trapped dust over many rides.

Handle the hose itself. Fine surface cracking, a hardened glassy feel, or a permanent flattened groove where a clamp has sat for years all confirm the hose is finished. On the running side, expect bogging under load, a lean stumble at higher rpm, or hesitation that behaves like a nearly empty tank, plus longer cranking than normal after an overnight sit. Because pressurized leaks often atomize instead of dripping, a persistent fuel odor with no visible puddle still deserves a full inspection.

Getting Set Up

  • Nitrile or rubber gloves and eye protection
  • A sealed fuel–rated container and a shallow drain pan low enough to slide under the frame
  • Replacement hose rated for injection pressure in the correct inside diameter
  • New clamps matched to the fittings, or a small clamp assortment
  • Line–clamping pliers, which take the place of the petcock this model does not have
  • A quick–connect release tool if the tank outlet uses a locking coupler
  • A sharp hose cutter or razor, rags, and sockets for the seat, panels, and rack hardware

Ventilation deserves more than a passing thought. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air, so it sinks to the floor and travels along it, meaning a high open window accomplishes nothing while a water heater pilot across the garage is a genuine hazard. Work outdoors when you can, or with the door fully open and a fan moving air at floor level. Kill pilot lights, unplug chargers, put grinders and torches away, and stay gloved throughout since fuel strips the oils from skin quickly.

Getting the Old Line Out

Relieve pressure first. Remove the fuel pump fuse or relay, crank the starter until the engine dies from lack of supply, turn the key off, and disconnect the battery negative cable. Then pull the seat and enough bodywork to expose the tank outlet and follow the hose forward to the throttle body.

Position the drain pan and drape a rag over the fitting you open first, because residual fuel stays in the hose after the pressure is gone. Slide worm or spring clamps well back along the hose before disturbing the joint. On a quick–connect coupler, press the locking tabs squarely inward and pull the collar straight off with no side load, since aged plastic splits when levered. Where varnish has bonded the hose to a barb, a gentle twist breaks the bond; if it holds, slit the hose lengthwise and peel it away to protect the fitting. This being a 4x4 chassis, the run passes front differential hardware and extra frame crossmembers, so photograph each clip and clearance point before the old hose leaves.

Fitting the Replacement

Cut the new hose to the same length as the original. Longer is not better, since excess hose chafes on frame tubes or interferes with the steering stem. Seat each end fully onto its barb until it bottoms against the shoulder, working entirely dry. Grease, oil, and silicone spray must stay off the fittings; a lubricated sealing surface is precisely the path pressurized fuel uses to creep past a clamp. Soften a stubborn hose end in hot water for thirty seconds rather than reaching for lubricant.

Install new clamps just behind the raised bead on each fitting and tighten them evenly instead of crushing one edge. If the tank end uses a self–locking quick–connect, push it together until it clicks and then pull firmly to verify the latch caught; that connection is designed to need no clamp. Reseat the hose in every original clip and guide so it stays clear of exhaust heat and the front driveline.

Leak Check and Wrap Up

Reinstall the fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off four or five times without cranking the engine. Each cycle runs the pump and pressurizes the hose while the surrounding area is still dry, which makes even a slow weep easy to see. Wipe both joints with a clean rag, inspect under good light, then start the engine and check again at idle for several minutes, watching for a bead forming at either connection.

Once it holds dry, reinstall the plastics and the seat. Remember that the fuel filter on this injected 800R is integrated into the in–tank pump module rather than sitting inline where you could swap it, so if the machine still runs starved after a clean hose install, the assembly inside the tank is the logical next step.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Fuel Lines for a 2014 Can-Am Renegade 800R ATV.

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Shop Fuel Filters for a 2014 Can-Am Renegade 800R ATV.

Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2014 Can-Am Renegade 800R ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.