Fuel Hose Replacement Steps for a 2014 Can-Am Renegade 1000
Shop parts for a 2014 Can-Am Renegade 1000 ATV.
Relieving fuel pressure is the first real step of this job, and skipping it is how people end up with gasoline in their eyes. The 2014 Renegade 1000 uses Can-Am's fuel-injected 976cc Rotax V-twin with the pump mounted inside the tank, which means the supply hose is under pressure whenever the key has been on and stays that way for a while after shutdown. A carbureted quad lets you turn a petcock and walk away; this one does not offer that convenience, so the sequence below starts by taking the pump out of the circuit.
Getting the Pressure Out of the System
Pull the fuel pump fuse or relay, then crank the engine briefly. It will fire, stumble, and quit as the remaining pressure is consumed. Turn the key off and disconnect the negative battery terminal so nothing can energize the pump while your hands are on the plumbing. That short routine takes under a minute and turns a pressurized circuit into an ordinary hose holding a small amount of residual fuel. Even then, lay a rag over the first fitting you open, because that residual volume will find the floor if you let it.
What Wears Fuel Line Out
Age is the primary enemy. The plasticizers that make rubber flexible slowly migrate out of the hose wall, and every heat cycle from the V-twin speeds that loss. Hose that once flexed easily becomes hard and glassy, and then frame vibration cracks it, geneRally at a bend rather than along a straight section. Dry-climate riders notice the deterioration sooner because low humidity pulls moisture from the material and stiffens it more quickly.
Fuel chemistry finishes the job from within. Ethanol-blended gas holds water in suspension and gradually degrades the hose liner, leaving softened rubber and gum behind. A Renegade that sits for months at a time with fuel in the system is the ideal environment for that breakdown. The two mechanisms together explain why a hose can look intact from the outside and still be failing.
Symptoms of a Line on Its Way Out
Any of the following justifies a close inspection:
- Fuel pooling under the frame or a damp patch on the skid plate after the quad has been parked overnight
- A gasoline odor around the tank that will not go away, often sharpest just after key-off
- Visible cracking, a dull chalky finish, or a stiff section that no longer springs back when pinched
- Bogging under throttle, a lean stumble at higher rpm, or behavior that mimics an almost empty tank
- Dust and dirt caked in a ring around a fitting, the signature of fuel weeping and drying repeatedly
Remember that a small leak on a pressurized line frequently evaporates before it can drip, so smell can be a more sensitive detector than sight here.
Tools, Materials, and Ventilation
Have this collected before you begin:
- Nitrile or rubber gloves to keep gasoline off your skin
- An approved container plus a wide catch pan
- Replacement hose rated for injection pressure in the correct inside diameter, since low-pressure carburetor line will not hold up
- New clamps to match the fittings, and a quick-disconnect release tool if a locking coupler is used at the tank
- Line-clamping pliers to pinch off a low-pressure section, standing in for the petcock this model lacks
- Sockets, drivers, a razor knife, and a stack of clean rags
Ventilation is not a formality on this job. Gasoline vapor is denser than air, so it sinks and gathers near the floor where a high window does nothing. Work outdoors or with the shop door wide open and move air at ground level. Kill every ignition source in the vicinity, including battery chargers, heaters, and pilot lights, and have an extinguisher within reach.
Pulling the Original Hose Free
With the seat and side plastics off, follow the hose from the tank outlet to the throttle body and note every clip along the way. Slide each clamp well back before you disturb a hose end. Spring clips open with pliers; worm-gear clamps just need loosening. A quick-connect coupler releases with even pressure on its tabs and a straight pull, never a sideways pry, because those collars turn brittle with age.
Twist each hose end gently on its barb to break the varnish seal instead of yanking it. When a hose has effectively bonded to a fitting, split it lengthwise and peel it away. The Renegade 1000 is a selectable 4x4, so the line has to be worked past front differential hardware and extra frame structure that would not be present on a two-wheel-drive machine. Photograph the routing before the old hose leaves the chassis so reinstallation is not a guessing game.
Fitting and Securing the New Line
Cut the new hose to the length of the old one, no longer. Slack invites chafing against frame tubes and driveline components, and that abrasion is a common cause of a second failure. Push each end onto its barb until it bottoms out, and assemble everything dry. Nothing slippery belongs on a fuel fitting — grease, oil, or silicone on the sealing surface creates the exact leak path you are trying to eliminate. Dip a reluctant hose end in hot water to soften it if needed.
Set the clamps just behind the raised bead on each barb and snug them evenly, firm but not cutting into the rubber. If the tank outlet on your machine uses a self-locking quick-connect, seat it until the collar clicks and then tug to verify it is latched; that fitting is intended to work without a clamp. Route the hose back through its original clips, keeping clearance from the exhaust and from anything that moves.
Checking Your Work
Refit the pump fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off four or five times without starting. The pump runs briefly each cycle, pressurizing the line so you can inspect both joints while everything is still dry. Wipe them with a clean rag and watch closely for a bead forming. Then start the V-twin and check again at idle, tracing the whole run with a light. Several minutes of leak-free running earns you the right to put the bodywork back on.
One closing note on this platform: the fuel filter is integrated into the in-tank pump module rather than being an inline element on the visible hose. A fresh line does nothing for a restricted filter, so if the 2014 Renegade still runs starved after a careful installation, that in-tank assembly is where to look next.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Fuel Lines for a 2014 Can-Am Renegade 1000 ATV.
Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2014 Can-Am Renegade 1000 ATV.
Shop Petcocks for a 2014 Can-Am Renegade 1000 ATV.
Shop Fuel Filters for a 2014 Can-Am Renegade 1000 ATV.
Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2014 Can-Am Renegade 1000 ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.