Fuel Line Replacement Guide for the 2014 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT-P

Shop parts for a 2014 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT-P ATV.

Everything Ready Before the First Clamp Moves

Good fuel work on a 2014 Outlander 800R XT-P starts as a logistics exercise. The moment a fitting comes loose you want to be fully committed to the machine with nothing left to go looking for, so assemble the whole kit before you begin.

  • Nitrile or rubber gloves, because gasoline pulls the oils out of skin in seconds
  • A shallow drain pan and an approved fuel container to receive the line contents
  • Replacement hose rated for fuel-injection pressure and matched to the original inside diameter
  • Fresh clamps in the correct style for the fittings on your machine
  • A quick-disconnect release tool if the tank end carries a locking coupler
  • Line-clamping pliers, which handle what a petcock would on an older carbureted quad
  • Sockets and drivers for the seat and body panels, a new razor blade, and more clean rags than seems reasonable

Then deal with the room, and take it seriously rather than nodding at it. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air, which means it drifts downward and collects at floor level, exactly where your head ends up when you reach under the tank. Ventilation only protects you if it moves air low across the ground, so a window cracked above the bench is beside the point. Push the machine outside if the weather cooperates, or raise the overhead door completely and set a fan at floor level. Get every ignition source out of the area, water heater pilot lights and hot incandescent work lamps included, and keep a fire extinguisher within reach of where you will be kneeling instead of hanging on a far wall.

Confirming Injection on This Trim

The 2014 XT-P runs the 800R Rotax V-twin with electronic fuel injection, so there is no petcock beneath the tank to close. Fuel comes from an electric pump module inside the tank, and the hose feeding the throttle bodies stays pressurized long after the engine shuts down. That is why the first thing you actually do is bleed the circuit, and why the hose you install must be injection-rated in the original inside diameter rather than the low-pressure line that suits a gravity-fed carburetor.

On the access side, the XT-P is a 4x4 with selectable two-wheel drive and carries front bumper and winch hardware in addition to the differential and its supporting frame structure. The steps do not change, but the front of the chassis is tight and the hose route uses more clips and clearance points than a two-wheel-drive machine would need.

How Hoses Harden and Crack

Rubber fuel line is a time-limited part. The compounds that keep the wall pliable slowly migrate out, heat cycling from the V-twin accelerates their departure, and once the hose is stiff, the vibration a utility quad absorbs on rough ground turns that rigidity into visible cracking. Machines in dry, low-humidity country get there sooner, because arid air draws moisture out of the rubber from the outer surface inward.

Ethanol does the interior damage. E10 pump gas attracts water into the fuel system and gradually degrades the hose liner, and any stretch where the XT-P sat unused with fuel in it contributes gumming and internal softening. The two processes overlap, so a hose can be brittle outside and crumbling inside at the same time. That is the reason age is the better indicator, and the reason a hose that looks intact can still be shedding material toward the injectors.

Symptoms to Take Seriously

  • Fuel collecting on the skid plate or the floor after the quad has been parked a while
  • A gasoline smell near the tank, strongest in the first several minutes after shutdown
  • Fine cracking, a chalky gray finish, or a section that feels hard and glassy between your fingers
  • Bogging on throttle, a lean stumble under sustained load, or the engine acting starved for fuel with a full tank
  • Dirt caked into a ring at a fitting where fuel has seeped and dried repeatedly

Injected systems mask small leaks, since fuel escaping under pressure often atomizes and evaporates before a drop can form. No puddle settles nothing, so an unexplained fuel odor is enough to justify pulling the panels and looking closely.

Removal Without Making a Mess

Depressurize before touching a fitting. Remove the fuel pump fuse, crank the engine a second or two until it quits or will not catch, turn the key off, and disconnect the negative battery cable. Pull the seat and side plastics so the tank and the hose heading toward the throttle bodies are both exposed.

Slide the pan underneath and drape a rag across the first joint you intend to break, since a depressurized hose still holds fuel. Push worm-gear or spring clamps well clear before disturbing the connection. A quick-connect coupler releases when you depress its locking tabs squarely and pull straight back; levering at an angle cracks collars that have grown brittle with age. Where varnish has cemented the hose to a barb, a gentle twist usually breaks the bond, and if it does not, split the hose lengthwise and peel it off rather than forcing the fitting. Photograph the routing, all clips, and each clearance point near the front driveline and bumper hardware before the last retainer releases.

Final Fitting and Pressure Check

Cut the new hose to the original length and no longer. Surplus hose finds a frame tube to rub or works toward hot exhaust, and slack gains you nothing. Seat both ends completely onto their barbs, installed dry. Grease, oil, and silicone all give pressurized fuel a channel past the sealing surface, so no lubricant belongs anywhere near these fittings. Hold a stubborn hose end in hot water for a few seconds and it will slide on unaided.

Set new clamps just behind the raised bead on each fitting and tighten them evenly, snug without biting into the rubber. If a self-locking quick-connect is used at the tank, push until it clicks and tug hard to confirm the latch caught; that fitting takes no clamp at all. Route the hose back through every factory clip so it stays clear of the driveline and heat.

Reinstall the fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off five or six times without cranking. Each cycle spins the pump and pressurizes the circuit while the joints are dry and easy to read, which is when a weep is most obvious. Inspect both connections with a light and a bare fingertip, then start the engine and check again at idle before any plastics go back on. Worth remembering: the fuel filter on this injected platform lives inside the tank with the pump assembly rather than inline on the visible hose, so if delivery still feels soft after a leak-free install, that module is where the search continues.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Fuel Lines for a 2014 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT-P ATV.

Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2014 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT-P ATV.

Shop Petcocks for a 2014 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT-P ATV.

Shop Fuel Filters for a 2014 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT-P ATV.

Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2014 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT-P ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.