Fuel Line Service on the 2014 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT
Shop parts for a 2014 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT ATV.
The single fact that determines how you approach this job on a 2014 Outlander 800R XT is that the machine is fuel injected. There is no petcock beneath the tank, the pump lives inside the tank itself, and the hose feeding the Rotax 800R twin sits under pressure even with the key off. Every step below flows from that, and getting it wrong is how riders end up wearing a face full of gasoline.
Identifying the Plumbing on This Machine
Open the bodywork on your 800R XT and you will find a pressure line running from the in-tank pump module toward the throttle body rather than a gravity hose dropping to a carburetor float bowl. That module carries the filter element and the pressure regulator internally, so there is no inline canister to service on the visible hose. The connections are frequently self-locking quick-connect couplers instead of a barb with a worm clamp, and any hose you buy needs to be rated for injection pressure, not the soft tubing sold for carbureted machines. The XT trim adds a winch, hitch, and heavier bumpers, which do not alter the fuel routing but do make the front of the quad a busier place to reach into.
What Kills a Fuel Hose
Heat and time do most of it. Each ride cycle pulls a little more plasticizer out of the rubber wall, and the hose slowly trades flexibility for a hard, glassy feel. Once it stops flexing, the constant chassis movement of trail work turns that rigidity into fine cracks and eventually splits. In dry, low-humidity regions the timeline shortens noticeably, since the ambient air keeps drawing moisture out of the material.
Fuel does its damage from the inside. Ethanol-blended gasoline pulls water into the system and slowly attacks the hose liner, which softens, swells slightly, and starts releasing fine particles downstream toward the injectors. Machines that sit for stretches between rides get hit hardest, because standing fuel has time to gum and varnish against a wall already breaking down. That is how an original line on a machine this age ends up hard on the outside and soft on the inside at once.
Symptoms Riders Should Not Ignore
- A gasoline smell around the tank and rear bodywork that lingers after shutdown while the circuit still holds pressure
- A puddle on the shop floor or a wet band across the skid plate after the Outlander has sat overnight
- Hairline surface cracking, a chalky gray cast, or a section permanently flattened under a clamp
- A crusted dirt ring at a fitting where fuel has seeped and dried repeatedly
- The engine bogging under load, hesitating on hard throttle, or acting starved at higher rpm with plenty of fuel aboard
Because this is a pressurized system, a small leak can atomize and evaporate before it drips. A dry floor does not clear the hose, so treat a persistent smell as evidence on its own.
Getting Set Up
- Nitrile or rubber gloves and safety glasses
- A shallow drain pan plus a sealed, fuel-rated container
- Injection-rated hose in the original inside diameter
- Fresh clamps in the matching style, and a quick-disconnect release tool if your fitting needs one
- Line-clamping pliers for any soft section, because no fuel valve exists to shut off flow
- Hand tools for the seat, racks, and panels, a sharp razor, and a good supply of clean rags
Take the fuel handling seriously. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air and settles at floor level, so work outside or with the garage door fully open instead of relying on a window overhead. Shut off heaters and pilot lights, keep sparks entirely out of the space, and let a warm exhaust cool before you start working near it.
Removal, Step by Step
Relieve pressure first: pull the fuel pump fuse or relay, crank the engine a few seconds until it stalls, switch the key off, then disconnect the battery negative cable. Pull the seat and enough side plastic to expose the tank and the hose run toward the throttle body. Place your pan underneath and hold a rag over the first joint you open, since a depressurized hose still holds fuel that will run out the moment it separates.
Slide clamps well clear of the fitting before disturbing the hose. Locking couplers want their tabs pressed squarely and a straight pull, never a pry, because aged collars snap rather than flex. Rotate the hose on the barb to break the varnish bond instead of pulling hard on it, and when an end simply will not release, slit it lengthwise with a razor and peel it away to protect the fitting. Photograph the routing while everything is still in place. This is a 4x4 chassis, so the hose has to work its way past the front differential and additional frame crossmembers, and reproducing that exact path keeps the new line away from the driveline and heat.
New Hose In and Leak Verification
Cut the replacement to the original length rather than leaving yourself margin. Slack chafes and drifts. Seat each end fully on its barb, working dry, with absolutely no grease, oil, or silicone on the sealing surfaces, since lubricant gives pressurized fuel a path to creep out past the clamp. A tight end loosens up with a few seconds in hot water. Position new clamps just behind the raised bead at each fitting and snug them evenly rather than crushing the hose. Where the machine uses a self-locking coupler, push until you hear or feel the click, then tug hard to confirm it latched, and leave it clamp-free. Return the hose to every original clip and guide.
Reinstall the fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off several times without cranking. Each cycle runs the pump and pressurizes the line, which lets you inspect both joints while the machine sits still and dry. Wipe them with a clean rag and look for darkening. Then start the twin, let it idle, and inspect once more with vibration in the system. After several leak-free minutes, reinstall the plastics and seat. If the engine still feels soft on fuel delivery after all this, the in-tank pump and filter assembly is the next component to evaluate.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Fuel Lines for a 2014 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT ATV.
Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2014 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT ATV.
Shop Petcocks for a 2014 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT ATV.
Shop Fuel Filters for a 2014 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT ATV.
Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2014 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.