Changing the Fuel Line on a 2014 Can-Am Outlander 800R DPS
Shop parts for a 2014 Can-Am Outlander 800R DPS ATV.
What a Failing Line Feels and Smells Like
Riders usually notice the consequences of a bad fuel line long before they notice the line itself. On a 2014 Outlander 800R DPS the earliest and most reliable clue is a raw gasoline smell that lingers around the machine after a ride. That odor is strongest in the first several minutes after shutdown, because the injected system holds pressure once the key is off and a compromised hose or fitting will push vapor out while you are walking away.
Next, look for physical evidence. A damp spot or a small puddle on the skid plate after the quad has sat overnight, or a ring of caked dirt around a fitting where fuel has seeped and dried repeatedly, both point at the same conclusion. Run your fingers down the full length of the hose. Rubber that feels rigid, chalky, or slick and glassy has already lost its flexibility, and fine cracking on the surface geneRally goes deeper than it looks. Finally, pay attention to how the engine behaves. Bogging as the throttle opens, a lean stumble partway up a long climb, or the machine acting like it is nearly out of gas when the tank is full all fit a fuel supply problem, and on an injected 800R those symptoms tend to get blamed on ignition components first.
No Petcock on This Platform
Sort this out before ordering parts. The 2014 Outlander 800R DPS is fuel-injected, using the 800R Rotax V-twin with an electric pump module submerged in the tank. There is no petcock beneath the tank to shut fuel off, and the hose supplying the throttle bodies stays pressurized after shutdown. Relieving that pressure deliberately is the first step of the job, and the hose you buy has to be rated for injection pressure rather than the soft low-pressure line used on gravity-fed carbureted machines.
Two other details shape the working space. The DPS trim adds Dynamic Power Steering, which places an assist motor and its harness near the steering column, and this is a 4x4 with selectable two-wheel drive carrying a front differential. Neither changes the actual procedure, but together they mean the fuel hose route passes through more clips and clearance points than a stripped-down two-wheel-drive machine would use. Follow the run visually before you take anything apart.
Age, Climate, and Ethanol
Fuel hose fails on a calendar. The compounds that keep the rubber flexible migrate out of the wall over years, heat cycling from the V-twin pushes that along, and once the wall stiffens the vibration of ordinary trail work turns it into cracking. Machines living in dry country get there sooner, since low ambient humidity draws moisture out of the rubber from the outside inward.
Ethanol handles the inner wall. E10 pump gas pulls water into the fuel system and slowly degrades the liner, and stretches where the Outlander sat unused with fuel in it add gumming and internal softening. That leaves a hose hardening on one surface and disintegrating on the other simultaneously. It is the reason age is a better guide than appearance, and the reason a hose that photographs well can still be feeding debris downstream.
Assembling the Kit and Making the Space Safe
- Rubber or nitrile gloves, because gasoline defats skin almost instantly
- A drain pan and a fuel-rated container to catch what comes out of the line
- Injection-rated replacement hose in the correct inside diameter
- New clamps matched to the fitting style on your machine, plus a quick-disconnect release tool if a locking coupler sits at the tank
- Line-clamping pliers, taking the place of the petcock this model lacks
- Sockets and drivers for the seat and plastics, a razor blade, and a good pile of clean rags
The ventilation point is worth stating plainly. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air and settles at floor level, which is where your head will be when you reach under the tank, so air movement has to happen low in the space. A window open above the bench does nothing. Work outdoors when the weather allows, or with the overhead door fully raised and a fan pushing air across the floor. Clear out pilot lights, space heaters, grinders, and hot incandescent lamps, and keep an extinguisher within arm's reach.
Working the Old Hose Free
Depressurize the circuit first. Remove the fuel pump fuse, crank for a second or two until the engine stalls or will not fire, shut the key off, and disconnect the negative battery cable. Pull the seat and side panels so the tank and the hose running toward the throttle bodies are both exposed.
Slide the drain pan into place and lay a rag across the first fitting you plan to open, since residual fuel stays in the hose regardless of how thoroughly you bled it. Back worm-gear or spring clamps well away from the joint before you disturb it. Quick-connect couplers come apart by pressing the locking tabs evenly and pulling straight off, never by prying sideways, which cracks collars that have gone brittle with age. Where varnish has bonded the hose to a barb, twist gently instead of hauling on it, and if it still will not release, slice the hose lengthwise with a blade and peel it off to protect the fitting. Photograph the routing and every retainer before the last clip comes loose, with particular attention to where the line clears front differential and power steering hardware.
Installing the New Line and Confirming the Repair
Cut the replacement to the same length as what came off. Extra hose finds a frame tube to chafe against or works its way toward hot exhaust, and it offers no benefit. Push both ends fully onto their barbs and install them dry. Grease, oil, and silicone spray all create a path for pressurized fuel to creep past the sealing surface, so keep every lubricant off the fittings. A few seconds in hot water will soften a stubborn hose end enough to slide on.
Set new clamps just behind the raised bead at each fitting and tighten evenly, snug without biting into the rubber. If the tank end of your DPS uses a self-locking quick-connect, push until it clicks and tug firmly to confirm the latch engaged; that fitting needs no clamp. Reseat the hose in every original clip so it stays clear of the driveline and heat.
Refit the fuse, Reconnect the battery, then cycle the key on and off five or six times without cranking. Each cycle runs the pump and pressurizes the line while the joints are still dry, which is the clearest moment to catch a weep. Go over both connections with a light and a bare fingertip, start the engine, and inspect once more at idle before the plastics go back on. One thing to keep in mind afterward: the fuel filter on this injected platform lives inside the tank as part of the pump assembly rather than inline where you can change it, so if delivery still feels soft after a leak-free install, that module is the next thing to examine.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Fuel Lines for a 2014 Can-Am Outlander 800R DPS ATV.
Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2014 Can-Am Outlander 800R DPS ATV.
Shop Petcocks for a 2014 Can-Am Outlander 800R DPS ATV.
Shop Fuel Filters for a 2014 Can-Am Outlander 800R DPS ATV.
Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2014 Can-Am Outlander 800R DPS ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.