How to Swap the Fuel Line on a 2013 Polaris Sportsman Touring 850 EPS 4X4
Shop parts for a 2013 Polaris Sportsman Touring 850 EPS 4X4 ATV.
Settle the fuel system question before you settle on a plan. On the 2013 Sportsman Touring 850 EPS 4X4 the answer is electronic fuel injection, and that determines the order of operations for the entire job. Approach an injected machine as though it were carbureted and the first clamp you loosen will spray gasoline across your workbench.
Pressure, Not a Petcock
Look under the tank for a fuel valve on this machine and you will not find one. Fuel comes from an electric pump mounted inside the tank, pushing through a feed line that runs forward to the throttle body of the ProStar 850 twin, and that line stays pressurized for hours after the key comes out. There is no float bowl to drain either. On a carbureted quad the job starts by rotating a valve closed and emptying a bowl into a cup, and the hose swap that follows barely spills a drop. Here it starts electrically: pull the fuel pump fuse or relay, crank the engine until it stalls, key off, and disconnect the battery negative cable. That drops the pressure and makes the rest of the work safe. The fuel filter is also part of the in-tank pump assembly, so there is no filter to service on the visible hose.
The Aging Curve of Rubber Fuel Line
Fuel hose fails from chemistry rather than mileage. Plasticizers give the rubber its flexibility, and heat cycling from the big twin steadily drives them out. Over a dozen years the hose transitions from soft and compliant to firm, then to glassy and unyielding. Once it stops flexing, the movement a two-up chassis experiences over rocks and washouts turns into fine cracks at the bends and in the compressed bands behind each clamp. Riders in dry, low-humidity country see this accelerate noticeably, since arid air draws moisture out of the hose wall and hardens it from the outside inward.
Ethanol-blended fuel attacks the same hose from within. Alcohol content pulls in atmospheric moisture and slowly breaks down the inner liner, softening and swelling it while the exterior continues to stiffen. Long parked stretches with fuel standing in the line make that worse. The end result on a machine of this age is a hose that can look presentable while its wall integrity is already gone.
Symptoms to Watch and Smell For
These are the practical indicators:
- Gasoline odor around the seats and console, sharpest in the first minute after shutdown while pressure remains
- A damp patch or thin puddle on the skid plate or the floor beneath the front of the chassis
- Chalky gray discoloration, fine surface crazing, or a rigid section found by pinching along the hose
- A ring of caked dust at a fitting, left by fuel seeping and evaporating repeatedly
- Bogging as the throttle opens with a passenger and gear aboard, or a lean surge that comes and goes
On a pressurized circuit, a small weep frequently atomizes before forming a drop, so a strong smell over a dry floor is still a legitimate finding worth pursuing.
Tools, Supplies, and Air Movement
Stage nitrile or rubber gloves, an approved sealed fuel container plus a shallow drip pan, replacement hose rated for fuel-injection pressure in the original inside diameter, new clamps of the correct style, a quick-disconnect release tool if the tank coupler uses a locking collar, line-clamping pliers to stand in for the missing petcock, sockets, a plastic trim tool, rags, and a razor blade.
Ventilation is a genuine safety concern here rather than a formality. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air, so it sinks and gathers at floor level, right where you kneel and where your head sits when reaching under the front end. Work outdoors when the weather permits, or with the overhead door raised completely for the entire job. Shut off water heater pilots, unplug chargers, and remove spark-producing tools from the space before the first fitting opens.
Extracting the Old Hose
With pressure relieved, remove both seats and the adjacent bodywork so you can follow the run from the tank flange all the way to the throttle body. The Touring frame is longer than a standard Sportsman to accommodate a passenger, which means more hose and additional retaining clips, and on this 4x4 chassis the routing works around front differential hardware plus the electric power steering assembly occupying space up front. Photograph the path and each clip while everything is still intact.
Slide the pan under the first joint and drape a rag over it, since a bled line still holds fuel. Push clamps well back along the hose before disturbing a barb. Quick-connect collars grow brittle over a decade, so press the tabs squarely and pull the fitting straight off with no sideways prying. If varnish has bonded a hose end to its fitting, slit the hose lengthwise with a blade and peel it away rather than twisting and risking damage to the barb.
Fitting the New Line and Verifying It
Cut the replacement to match the original length. Slack chafes against frame edges or drifts into hot exhaust shielding, and both eventually wear through. Push each end fully onto its barb, dry. Grease, oil, and silicone must stay off fuel fittings, because lubricant on the sealing surface gives pressurized fuel a path out of a joint that would otherwise hold. Soften a tight hose end in hot water instead. Position new clamps just behind the raised bead on each barb and tighten them evenly rather than crushing one side. Where the tank connection is a self-locking quick-connect, push until it clicks and tug firmly to confirm the latch engaged; that joint takes no clamp. Reinstall every original clip so the hose stays clear of the driveline and heat.
Reinstall the pump fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off several times without cranking. Each cycle runs the pump and pressurizes the line, letting you inspect both joints with the engine cold and still. Wipe them with a clean rag and watch for fuel beading up. Then start the machine, let it idle, and check again while it is hot and vibrating. Several minutes of confirmed dry running earns the bodywork its way back on. If fuel delivery still feels weak after a clean install, the in-tank pump and filter assembly is the next component to evaluate.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Fuel Lines for a 2013 Polaris Sportsman Touring 850 EPS 4X4 ATV.
Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2013 Polaris Sportsman Touring 850 EPS 4X4 ATV.
Shop Petcocks for a 2013 Polaris Sportsman Touring 850 EPS 4X4 ATV.
Shop Fuel Filters for a 2013 Polaris Sportsman Touring 850 EPS 4X4 ATV.
Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2013 Polaris Sportsman Touring 850 EPS 4X4 ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.