Swapping the Fuel Line on a 2013 Sportsman Big Boss 800 6x6
Shop parts for a 2013 Polaris Sportsman Big Boss 800 6X6 ATV.
Nobody buys a six-wheeled Big Boss to baby it. The 2013 Sportsman Big Boss 800 6x6 spends its life dragging firewood, hauling feed, and crawling through terrain that shakes every rubber component on the frame, and the fuel hose is one of the parts that quietly ages out while you are thinking about tires and oil. This machine runs electronic fuel injection, so there is no fuel valve to spin closed before you start. Pressure relief takes the place of that step, and the rest of the job is straightforward once you understand the difference.
Spotting a Hose That Is Ready to Quit
Fuel line failure usually gives you a window of warning before it strands you. Run through this list any time the machine smells like a gas can:
- A wet patch or slow drip on the skid plate, most obvious a few hours after the Big Boss has been parked
- Raw fuel odor near the tank that is strongest right after you shut the key off
- Fine crazing across the outer wall, a dull chalky finish, or a length that has gone stiff and refuses to flex
- Stumbling under load, a lean stumble when you roll into the throttle, or hesitation that clears when you back off
- A grimy collar of dust stuck around a fitting where seeping fuel has been collecting dirt
Injected machines complicate the puddle test. Fuel escaping a pressurized joint often mists and evaporates before it reaches the ground, so a strong smell with no visible drip still means you have a leak to find. A carbureted quad, by contrast, typically leaves an unmistakable pool under the float bowl.
What Age Does to Rubber Fuel Hose
The soft compounds that make new hose pliable slowly work their way out of the material. What remains is harder, more brittle, and far less tolerant of movement. Every heat cycle from the 800 twin expands and contracts the line, the long six-wheel chassis twists under load, and those two forces open microscopic splits that grow into real cracks.
Low humidity accelerates the whole process. Owners riding in dry, high-elevation country regularly find hose that has stiffened well before its time. Ethanol-blended fuel adds a second failure path from the inside, drawing moisture into the system and gradually breaking down the inner liner. That is why a line can look acceptable on the outside while shedding softened material toward the injectors.
Getting Set Up Before Anything Comes Loose
Take the ventilation question seriously. Gasoline vapor sinks and collects near the floor, which is precisely where extension cords, chargers, and shop heaters live. Work outdoors or with the building genuinely open, and keep ignition sources far from the machine. Gloves matter too, since gasoline degreases skin fast and carries dissolved contaminants along with it.
Assemble the following:
- Fuel line rated for injection pressure in the factory inside diameter, not general-purpose carburetor hose
- Fresh clamps matched to the style already on the machine, plus a quick-disconnect tool if a locking coupler is used at the tank flange
- Line-clamping pliers, which stand in for the petcock a carbureted model would give you
- A sealed, approved container for captured fuel and a shallow drain pan
- Nitrile gloves, rags, a small flat-blade screwdriver, and sockets for the seat, box, and side panels
Bleeding Pressure and Pulling the Old Line
Begin by removing the fuel pump fuse or relay. Crank the engine until it sputters out, turn the key off, and disconnect the battery negative terminal. That empties the pressure from the circuit and keeps the pump from priming while a fitting sits open. Now lift the seat and remove the plastics covering the tank and the hose run.
Position the pan beneath the joint you plan to open and lay a rag across it. Residual fuel will still escape. Slide clamps back along the hose before disturbing anything. On a quick-connect, compress both tabs evenly and pull straight back; prying sideways cracks aged plastic collars. Where the hose has bonded itself to a barb with varnish, twist it lightly to break the seal, or split it with a blade and peel it away rather than risking damage to the fitting.
Photograph or sketch the routing as you go. The Big Boss frame is considerably longer than a standard Sportsman, so the line passes additional crossmembers and retainers, and the front all-wheel-drive components create clearance points a simple two-wheel-drive chassis never has. Getting the new hose back into the same path is much easier with a reference.
Fitting the Replacement
Measure the new hose against the old one and cut it to match. Excess length invites chafing against the frame or contact with hot exhaust, while a piece cut too short loads the fittings and eventually pulls a joint loose. Slide each end onto its barb until it bottoms out and do it dry. Grease, oil, and silicone all give pressurized fuel a slippery escape route beneath the clamp, so keep every lubricant off the sealing surfaces. A quick dunk in hot water softens a stubborn end enough to seat it.
Set new clamps just inboard of the raised bead on each fitting and snug them uniformly instead of overtightening into the hose wall. Self-locking quick-connects need no clamp whatsoever — push until the collar audibly clicks, then pull to confirm it has captured. Return the line to every original clip so it stays away from the driveline and exhaust heat.
Leak Check and Final Reassembly
Reinstall the pump fuse and Reconnect the battery, then cycle the key on and off several times without starting the engine. Each cycle runs the pump and brings the circuit up to pressure, which is your best chance to catch a weep while the area is still clean and dry. Wipe both connections with a fresh rag and look closely at each. Fire the engine, let it idle, and inspect once more before the plastics and seat go back on.
Keep one platform detail in mind afterward. On this fuel-injected Big Boss the filter sits inside the tank as part of the pump assembly rather than inline on the visible hose, and there is no float bowl to drain the way there would be on a carbureted machine. A perfect new line will not cure a restricted in-tank filter, so if the engine still acts starved after the swap, that module is the next thing to investigate.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Fuel Lines for a 2013 Polaris Sportsman Big Boss 800 6X6 ATV.
Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2013 Polaris Sportsman Big Boss 800 6X6 ATV.
Shop Petcocks for a 2013 Polaris Sportsman Big Boss 800 6X6 ATV.
Shop Fuel Filters for a 2013 Polaris Sportsman Big Boss 800 6X6 ATV.
Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2013 Polaris Sportsman Big Boss 800 6X6 ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.